INITA

1 Star • Italian Contemporary. INITA, a portmanteau of Italy, Nippon (Japan) and Taiwan, delivers victuals that are underscored by Italian technique, jazzed up with Japanese twists and crafted with Taiwanese ingredients. The season-driven tasting menu consists of 10-plus courses inspired by the Japanese chef-owner’s culinary roots and experience. His dorayaki is a castella pancake sandwich filled with a tartare of local yellow beef, alongside an Italian tuna dip packed in briny umami.