Le Comptoir at Bar Crenn

1 Star (Green Star) • Contemporary, French. Tucked next door to Atelier Crenn, this counter experience offers an elegant interpretation of bar dining. Seated at a sleek marble countertop, a select handful of guests per evening receive a tasting menu reflecting Crenn’s pescatarian, French and Californian cuisine. Diners get a bit of a show, with the bulk of the courses being plated with brio before their eyes.The beverage program is thoughtful, with pairings well-matched to the intricate creations, such as a buckwheat pretzel accompanied by mustard, caviar and mornay sauce, or ricotta-filled agnolotti with brown butter, truffle and a reduced onion broth. End the meal with a strawberry panna cotta and a pecan profiterole.