MICHELIN Guide Starred Restaurants 2025

1 Star • Innovative. The dimly lit space in a century-old building on the Bund feels mysterious and theatrical. The vibe is matched by a season-driven menu divided into acts, like a play. Neo-Chinese creations are finessed by European techniques, and presented in whimsical and ceremonious ways. For a fine dining take on the classic beef in oyster sauce, beef from Shandong is marinated then deep-fried and grilled. Creative wine pairing options add to the fun.

1 Star • Cantonese. Perforated windows, ceiling fans and chandeliers impart retro Lingnan flair. Chef Feng also bases his recipes on Lingnan traditions and seasonal local produce, but slightly tweaked to the local palate and spruced up with unique creativity. His Shunde minced fish soup perfumed by makrut lime leaves, and roast goose that takes 45 minutes to cook in the oversized grill, tend to sell out fast. End the meal with silky ginger milk curd in Shawan style.

1 Star • Zhejiang. Tucked away in a quiet alley, this restaurant in a Chinese garden with stone bridges and ponds only offers eight private rooms. The chef crafts nostalgic, poetically named Jiangnan dishes and shines the spotlight on local Zhejiang favourites. As a starter, diners are served freshly made sweet or savoury soymilk, flanked by a lineup of sides. The signature double-boiled duck soup with cordyceps chanhua is tasty and nourishing.

1 Star • Shandong. Instead of typical Shandong classics, the chef, who hails from the province, champions a menu starring seafood that is shipped from Weihai port daily. The crisp and tangy Laizhou Bay "penis fish" salad on a bed of ice plant tantalises the taste buds. The donkey soup with Solomon's seal and black garlic, slow cooked for over 10 hours, delivers meaty sweetness and a gelatinous texture from the donkey hide, in a space that exudes traditional elegance.

1 Star • Shandong. With its own herb garden, and the latest catch shipped daily from Weihai and Bohai Sea, this eatery promises food that is as fresh as it gets. Well-versed in the properties of all his produce, the chef fine-tunes his recipes according to the season. The Jiaodong cold appetiser platter includes four kinds of seafood with different seasonings. The braised sea cucumber with scallion and huitlacoche presents deeply aromatic layers of briny-sweet flavours.

1 Star • Sichuan. This popular eatery in the bustling Taikoo Li area started out as a stall in Weishan in 1923. Light years from its humble beginnings, this outpost of the chain in Chengdu features a vintage hipster interior and Sichuan classics on the menu. Besides their signature duck blood curd with pork offal and sliced eel, also try the crispy fen zheng rou – pork coated in seasoned rice flour, steamed and then deep-fried. Expect to see a queue from the moment it opens.

1 Star • French Contemporary. The first Asian outpost of this French restaurant in Burgundy commands 180° views of The Bund. The chef, who worked for Éric Pras at the flagship establishment for years, is keen to pair Burgundy recipes with local produce such as Yunnan mushrooms, and green Sichuan pepper condiment, in his own spin on authentic French cooking. The long wine list covers many wineries and varieties of Burgundy; ask the sommelier for the perfect pairing.

1 Star • Beijing Cuisine. A remodelled, high-ceilinged courtyard mansion houses this stunning restaurant whose splendid view changes with the seasons. In a similar vein, traditional Beijing dishes have been treated to a modern makeover. Besides being carved traditionally, jujube wood-fired Peking duck can be served three ways, boasting crispy skin and juicy flesh. Seared sea cucumber with Zhangqiu scallion is another original dish that will blow your mind. Also check out their Beijing-themed cocktails.

1 Star • Fujian. Brass ceiling panels and chandeliers lend a touch of nostalgic elegance to the otherwise modern room. For an experience authentic, Fujianese is the mainstay of the menu, with all of the kitchen team hailing from the province. Try the umami-laden duck essence made the traditional way: a whole duck is steamed for hours and the juices collected with no water added. Check out the tea menu, which has a wealth of nice choices from Fujian.

1 Star • Hui Cuisine. This spacious looker, complete with a garden, has majestic rooms that meld Baroque-style furniture and art with Chinese motifs. Classic palates will relish the traditional Anhui dishes made with ingredients from the province, such as mandarin fish fermented in Anhui and braised in either soy-based or chilli sauce. The set menu includes 10-plus iconic Anhui items. Ask the sommelier about pairing your food with local craft beer or Chinese liquors.

1 Star (Green Star) • Vegetarian. Nestled in a quiet hotel next to Daci Temple, this restaurant is an oasis of calm. The courtyard house exudes historical charm, with the open kitchen lending an airy feel. Hand-picked local produce is used to create light, refined and inspired vegetarian dishes, such as vegan mapo tofu with chanterelles. There is also a set menu that supports small local farms near panda habitats, featuring ingredients like Mianyang porcini and Ya'an radish.

1 Star • Cantonese. This airy restaurant with chic retro decor, near Hongqiao airport, is a veritable haven for weary travellers. As well as cooking up the same classics as the namesake sister branch in Hong Kong, the experienced Shanghainese chef imbues Cantonese dim sum with unique Shanghainese touches. Honey-glazed barbecued pork, and tofu-skin beggar's purses are both highlights. Round off your meal with pear, bamboo bird's nest and nostoc sweet soup.

1 Star • Beijing Cuisine. The dark green façade and warm grey room impart sophisticated taste. The jasmine centrepiece on each table exudes a pleasant scent and befits the restaurant’s name. On the menu, Beijingese melds with Shandong in refined masterpieces that look and taste divine. The signature classic Peking duck can be ordered in individual portions – in addition to pancake, scallion and cucumber, chargrilled duck breast with crispy skin is luxed up with caviar.

1 Star • Jiangzhe. Antique furniture and oil paintings complement the refurbished century-old mansion, whose all-white interior exudes modern European charm. The head chef has over 30 years' experience; Peking duck and Jiangzhe classics are his strong suit. His signature braised "lion's head" pork balls are prepared differently according to the season – with longsnout catfish and bird's nest from May to July, with crabmeat and roe in stock from August to October.

1 Star • Jiangzhe. Moose has three Shanghai branches, all run by the same team. This Pudong one is geared towards the general public, with a Huaiyang-centric menu featuring some painstakingly made delicacies. From Anhui province, the head chef champions the pagoda version of braised pork belly in brown sauce, which shows exquisite knife work. The sautéed river shrimps are a light but umami-loaded option. Ask servers about the seasonal menu and catch of the day.

1 Star • Innovative. Featuring sustainable satoyama cuisine that connects diners with nature, this outpost of its Tokyo namesake serves a seasonal set menu built on Japanese traditions finessed by Western techniques. Having worked with chef-owner Narisawa for 10+ years, the head chef uses mostly Chinese ingredients in his cooking. The iconic "Bread of the Forest" is fermented and baked tableside in a stone pot and infused with seasonal produce such as white tea or kumquat.

1 Star • Innovative. The young chef is committed to creating Chinese-rooted cuisine finessed by modern techniques and marked by bold, peppery notes. His fish dish in a fiery and sour Sichuan peppercorn sauce packs a punch. Those who relish the thrill of the unknown should try the ‘blind box’ option – you draw a card and the chef makes a surprise dish on the spot. On top of its well-curated wine list, Chinese tea pairing also offers an elevated dining experience.

1 Star • Chao Zhou. This multi-storey marvel in a historical mansion exudes understated luxury. Chef Fai creates culinary gems that entice with pretty plating and precise execution. Be sure to order the juicy, deep-fried 20-day-old pigeon with crispy skin. The sautéed dried shrimps with minced pork seduces with contrasting textures and deep, mildly spicy flavours. Seafood dishes including whelk are also popular.

1 Star • Huaiyang. The views of Xuanwu Lake and Mt Zijin are beautiful to behold, but the light-filled open kitchen, where the experienced chef prepares updated Huaiyang and Nanjing classics as well as seasonal dishes, also catches the eye. The crystal pork aspic boasts meaty flavour and a bouncy texture, with vinegar pearls providing mini explosions of tartness. The thinly shredded tofu in umami-laden Wensi tofu soup with crabmeat is testament to impressive knife skills.

1 Star • Jiangsu Cuisine. Tucked away in the Pingjiang historic quarter, this restaurant was remodelled from an ancient mansion encompassing the quintessence of classical Suzhou garden and architecture. Similarly, the season-driven menu is based heavily on Suzhou culinary traditions, enlivened by modern twists. Mantis shrimps with soft roe are dressed in fermented rice lees marinade and topped with caviar. The duck soup with ham and fox nuts presents rich flavours and deep umami.

1 Star • Beijing Cuisine. The bamboo bush, jade ornaments, ink paintings and cut flowers may prime your brain for a hefty price tag, but a meal in this modern restaurant doesn’t break the bank. Its signature braised fish head is juicy and tender, nicely braised in an aromatic brown sauce. Roast duck uses 40-day-old birds that are chargrilled to perfection and plated gorgeously. Always save room for the creamed yam and osmanthus sweet soup.

1 Star • Seafood. The incredible range of quality live seafood on offer, prepared meticulously with exquisite technique, is the main draw here. There is no menu – diners choose from the three-tier fish tanks at the entrance themselves, then specify how they would like their pick to be cooked. Enjoy the soft roe and firm, flavourful meat of the chilled swimmer crab, or try the silky and aromatic swamp eel braised with tea seed oil and basil.

1 Star • Shanghainese. Dim yellow lights, 1930s memorabilia, golden oldies performed by singers dressed in qipao… but, surprisingly, the ambiance doesn't steal the show. It's the first-rate Shanghainese fare at bargain prices that keeps the place packed. One highlight of the fish-focused menu is crab, as the owner picks the best from his own farm; the crabmeat and roe on rice is a must. Fried shredded eel with water bamboo affords a nice contrast of textures.

1 Star • Sichuan. This brand under the Xin Rong Ji group specialises in Sichuan fare, in particular cuisine from Yibin, the chef's home city. Most of his ingredients are from Sichuan and seasonal. With its deep fiery heat, the plateau loach hot pot with green Sichuan peppercorns on the vine is a hit. The quick-fried pork liver and kidney is another must-try. The drinks list focuses on wine and sparkling tea from Sichuan. Ask the sommelier about wine pairings.

1 Star • Innovative. Full-length windows allow diners to bask in the lush greenery of Xiang Lake. The kitchen is under a white dome with jars of fermented food on a round island, like a place of worship. The set menu showcases modern French cuisine made with local Chinese ingredients, incorporating authentic elements of Hangzhou. Even the dinner rolls are steamed like Chinese buns before being baked.

1 Star • Cantonese. This Hong Kong brand, famous for both gourmet and home-style fare, reopened its Beijing outpost in 2024. The pale wood and apple green details of the interior echo the lush greenery. The head chef has worked for the brand for years and his skills are unquestionable. His must-try ge zha is a savoury egg custard, floured and deep-fried until crispy. The osmanthus scrambled egg with crabmeat and shredded shrimp bursts with umami.

1 Star • Cantonese. In this branch of the Hong Kong-based chain with two spacious dining rooms connected by a kitchen, the live fish tanks and glass wine cellar make an impression. The chef's technical skill is evident in dishes that form a menu of traditional Cantonese fare ranging from dried seafood and soups to Cantonese barbecue and stir-fries. Try the sautéed "osmanthus" egg with crabmeat and shredded shrimp; at lunchtime, choose from 30+ kinds of dim sum.

1 Star • Huaiyang. This hotel restaurant originally served Cantonese fare but later switched to Huaiyang cuisine. Just like its counterparts around the world, the well-appointed room is done out in modern Chinese style. The kitchen is helmed by a formally trained young chef, who expresses his creative take on Huaiyang traditions in his "new three heads": mugwort lion's head pork balls, pig's head terrine with finger lime and fermented sour soup with deboned fish head.

1 Star • Beijing Cuisine. It’s all about the signature roast duck here; yours will even come with a ‘birth certificate’ proving it is 45 days old. Grilled in a stone oven over jujube wood, it boasts crispy skin and delicious, juicy meat; order caviar to go with it if you fancy a splurge. Other dishes include sautéed springy prawns from Bohai Sea with shrimp roe, which are packed in serious umami. Also check out the very reasonably priced wine list. The restaurant boasts a bright, open feel.

1 Star • Beijing Cuisine. The Beijing brand famous for Peking duck chose this prestigious address on the Bund for their first Shanghai outpost. Diners are greeted by a wine cellar tunnel foreshadowing the range of drinks to go with the signature bird. Each of the 45-day-old ducks roasted over jujube wood comes with a QR code that allows diners to trace its source. The views of the Bund and romantic ambiance also make for a great dining experience.

1 Star • Sichuan. The owner’s collection of souvenirs from her trips around the world gives this spacious dining room an endearing quirkiness. Her wanderlust also translates into her quest for quality ingredients from around the globe, to be cooked in an authentic Sichuanese style. Roast pigeon smoked with Sichuan pepper leaves is simply unmissable. Cold appetisers like lamp-shadow sliced grass carp are also well made. You can opt for half portion for some dishes.

1 Star • Cantonese. Sole opened its doors in 2023 with an all-Cantonese kitchen team. The head chef's glorious career spans 20-plus years and he excels at Cantonese classics – dim sum, Cantonese barbecue, seafood, double-boiled soups and stir-fries. The long menu also offers painstakingly made items such as deep-fried egg custard with chicken testicle. The scallop dumpling with crab roe stands out for its translucent skin, perfect pleats and rich buttery filling.

1 Star • Sichuan. Christened after the dynasty and a nod to the owner's name, this award-winning place has pillars covered with stainless steel bricks and gigantic glass-feathered wings hung from the mirrored ceiling that lend an eerie sense of space. Standouts on the predominantly Sichuanese menu include spicy boiled tiger grouper, jujube wood-roasted 42-day Peking duck, and spicy crab. Try the Sichuan street food, too – such as stuffed pancake, and Zhong's dumplings.

1 Star • Ningbo. Jade-coloured archways, silk-clad panels and organic light fixtures evoke a classical Hangzhou garden with a stylised touch. Similarly, the seasoned fine dining kitchen team adds novel twists to Ningbo classics. Marinated raw crab in a spicy sour sauce boasts briny sweetness, gelatinous texture and buttery roe. Crispy skin pigeon leg is deboned and stuffed with the bird’s breast; Sichuan pepper cuts through the richness.

1 Star • European. Named after the owner-chef who also runs Taian Table, Stiller is a different dining concept altogether. Start the meal with a personalised cocktail at the bar or the lounge area by the floor-to-ceiling windows. Then head to the colourful dining room with comfy couch seating. The menu features seasonal offerings alongside some German-inspired dishes which are rare to find in the town. Also ask servers for recommendations.

1 Star • Chao Zhou. This restaurant on the same premises as a furniture shop and a Japanese tearoom is helmed by the experienced Chef Fai. The kitchen delivers refined Chaozhou dishes, with menus tailored to availability of ingredients, as well as guests' budget and preferences after reservations are made via the texting app. The deep-fried Puning tofu stuffed with minced shrimp and chives is golden and aromatic, and best enjoyed with the boneless crucian carp congee.

1 Star • Cantonese. With over 40 years of experience, this owner-chef from Hong Kong samples what his team makes daily to keep improving the quality. He is justly proud of his crispy deep-fried squab – 30-day-old birds are basted three times to crisp the skin while keeping the meat juicy and silky. Other standouts include double-boiled soups, dim sum, as well as sago and pomelo in mango purée that strikes a perfect balance between sweet and tangy.

1 Star • European Contemporary. The three-storey complex with an art gallery, a main dining room and a space for private banquets boasts pristine white walls dotted with artworks and greenery. It serves simple fare like smørrebrød (open sandwiches) for lunch; there is a single tasting menu at dinner. Pickled, smoked and cured ingredients are used aptly to show Nordic influences, without being overpowering. Meat and seafood sourced globally are complemented by seasonal produce.

1 Star • European Contemporary. The first Louis Vuitton restaurant in China stars Italian chef Leonardo Zambrino at the helm. Stints in prestigious kitchens in Asia and Europe have helped shape his vision – sophisticated European cuisine paired with Sichuanese flavour profiles. The tasting menus are seasonal, alongside a few à la carte dishes. The room nestles in a circa 1730s heritage building, complete with original brick walls, perforated wood windows and a courtyard.

1 Star • Cantonese. Inspired by Dream of the Red Chamber, an 18C Chinese novel, the decor embodies that era's charm. With well-honed skills, the Cantonese chef from Zhanjiang reinvents his hometown favourites, presenting specialities such as double-boiled duck and fish maw soup, jackfruit wood roast pork, and jackfruit puff pastry. Zhanjiang-style sautéed lobster is jazzed up by sand ginger and black beans for a deep caramelised flavour and a mild kick.

1 Star • French Contemporary. Hidden in the courtyard of a historic temple, this cosy, modern, professionally run dining room raises customer expectations. Polished, immaculately crafted dishes starring top-notch local produce hit the spot every time. The premium signature menu is inspired by the chef’s personal history and stars luxury ingredients. The seasonal menu lavishly calls upon ripe, mature produce and Le Grand Dessert finale is definitely worth writing home about.

1 Star • French Contemporary. The façade may be retro, but the modern interior of this century-old building is quietly luxe. As its name suggests, Vivant takes pride in its lively atmosphere. An oversize open kitchen means every diner can witness the alchemy, as the French chef of Vietnamese descent devises a single seasonal tasting menu, plus optional add-ons. He deftly juggles Asian and French flavours, often using local ingredients alongside Vietnamese street food.

1 Star • Fujian. The restaurant is located in a historic area where many famous scholars lived during the North Song Dynasty. The interior sports original architectural details, while the menu pays homage to traditional Fujian food culture. The head chef has been cooking professionally for over 30 years; his sliced conch in red vinasse sauce accentuates the briny-sweet taste of the sea snail. Hand-pounded rice cake is the perfect companion to any seafood dish.

1 Star • Chinese Contemporary. Every table in the softly lit room commands a view of the open kitchen. The head chef hailing from Taizhou designed the set and à la carte menus to highlight the natural flavours of the best seafood shipped from his hometown. Besides the famous yellow croaker braised in fish stock, also try the fried crab in curry sa cha sauce over pan-fried rice cake in autumn. The extensive wine list covers thousands of labels, mostly from Burgundy in France.

1 Star • Cantonese. The chain started life as a stall, before this hugely popular outpost opened in 1996. The veteran crew follows ancient recipes to craft its reasonably priced Cantonese fare. The signature Ze Ze eels are swamp varieties served sizzling in a claypot; the fried mantis shrimp in spiced salt bursts with sweetness; and the house-made ice cream is a must. Only private room reservations are accepted. Otherwise, come early to beat the long wait at peak hours.

1 Star • Dim Sum. Having relocated to larger premises in the city centre, this shop famous for crab xiaolongbao still always attracts queues. They serve over 20 varieties – crabmeat, roe, tomalley or combinations thereof – with plump fillings enrobed in translucent skin, each with a different dip. The buns with premium seafood such as abalone and sea cucumber are also popular. First-timers can go for the assorted option with several varieties in one steamer.

1 Star • Dongbei. This three-storey lakeside mansion is home to the first haute cuisine establishment of a nationwide dumpling chain. The kitchen and service teams deliver authentic Northeastern flavours and spot-on, friendly service. The two set menus focus respectively on abalone and sea cucumber, alongside seasonal seafood like raw marinated lobster and jellyfish, as well as the must-try sea urchin dumplings that burst with umami.

1 Star • Cantonese. This street was once known for the sheer number of seafood restaurants on it. Though most of its competitors were shuttered for good, Xin Ji is still going strong after over 30 years of service. And of course, picking live critters from the fish tank at the door is part of the ritual. If you have no idea what to pick, try their signature eel dishes – freshwater eel braised with roast pork and swamp eel rice, both boasting fatty, firm flesh.

1 Star • Taizhou. The restaurant’s location outside the city centre – in Xixi National Wetland Park – doesn’t deter diners! The lush surroundings, charming garden, understated decor and quality food make the trip worthwhile. Taizhou classics like deep-fried hairtail and braised giant yellow croaker are a must. Surprisingly, the kitchen is also well-versed in Hangzhou cooking, such as soft, chewy braised pork intestine, jazzed up with a dash of spiciness.

1 Star • Taizhou. The upmarket chain is famous for flawlessly fresh seafood flown in from Taizhou daily and this branch is no exception. If you find the à la carte menu overwhelming, go for the set menu to sample various specialities all at once. Besides their signature wild-caught yellow croaker and fried hairtail, make sure you save room for the bird’s nest sweet soup with coconut water and buffalo milk. For the best experience, book a table and pre-order in advance.

1 Star • Taizhou. You can find Xin Rong Ji in all major Chinese cities these days, but this is their longest-standing outlet (in business since 2005). As in most Taizhou-style restaurants, diners pick their own seafood from the tanks and specify how they want it cooked. All-time favourites include golden fried beltfish with delicate flesh in a crispy crust, and braised sea anemone with glass noodles, which seduces with its flavoursome broth and lovely textures.

1 Star • Taizhou. This is the first Beijing branch of the Taizhou brand famous for super-fresh, top-notch seafood shipped from the East China Sea daily. Wild-caught yellow croaker is the mainstay of a menu that keeps pace with availability, however, brown croaker is also a firm favourite for many, and whether it is crafted into dumplings that burst with juices or minced and braised into springy ‘lion head’ meatballs, it always delivers succulent flavours and textures.

1 Star • Taizhou. This brand with a nation-wide presence started out as a seafood stall in Linhai in 1995. Xin Rong Ji opened this branch in 2013, in a restored villa in Linhai, set amid lush greenery and boasting lake views, and it has since become a pilgrimage destination for loyal customers. The menu features the chain's classics from across the decades, including its famous braised yellow croaker with sticky rice cake, which generated much buzz in the early days.

1 Star • Taizhou. The seafood stall by the entrance lets diners make their own choices from the items shipped directly from Taizhou that day. Seasonality is key and that determines exactly which ingredients will be used in certain dishes. Customers can also specify how they want their seafood cooked. The restaurant communicates with every customer before their visit; consider pre-ordering signatures such as braised yellow croaker or golden deep-fried hairtail.

1 Star • Sichuan. This is the chain’s first outpost and it’s been in business for over a decade. A tank of live fish by the entrance reminds you that river and sea fish are the name of the game here. The menu revolves around novel Sichuan dishes, with a few regional offerings. For an overview of Sichuan cuisine, try the 24-flavour-profile set menu. We also recommend the preserved meat prepared in-house, or the pond loach seared with green Sichuan pepper, depicted by crisp textures and a numbing sensation.

1 Star • Fujian. For 10-plus years, this flagship establishment has been packed with loyal patrons. The modern stylish interior showcases top-notch dried seafood which is used in the famous Fujian Buddha jumps over the wall dish, but you can also enjoy other first-rate dishes without breaking the bank. Try Minnan prawn noodles in orange coloured tomalley soup or made to order black mochi packed with black sesame aroma. The seasonal menu is also worth exploring.

1 Star • Cantonese. This flagship restaurant of The Peninsula, though decorated in the style of 1930s Shanghai, serves an unmistakably Cantonese menu with an abundance of excellent choices. The kitchen masters authentic Cantonese flavours underpinned by culinary traditions and classical skills. The Cantonese barbecue never disappoints, and there is a dim sum lunch set for solo diners. The deep-fried pork dumplings entice with a blistered crust and pork-mushroom filling.

1 Star (Green Star) • Sichuan. This multifaceted dining concept in a heritage building is supervised by celebrity chef Lan Guijun. It hits the spot every time, thanks to quality ingredients, deft execution and thoughtful service. A few set menus are available – all require pre-ordering. The assortment of six small plates in a silver box highlights the varied taste profiles in Sichuanese fare. Try also the five-colour cold noodles with spiny lobster, and golden thread noodle soup.

1 Star • Ningbo. The swanky room overlooking the Pudong skyline and Huangpu River boasts marble walls and exquisite chandeliers. The menu features Ningbo classics, as well as novel dishes made with ingredients from all over China. Live seafood such as white crab and yellow croaker is shipped daily from the East China Sea for maximum freshness. Try stir-fried white crabmeat, sautéed cattail with shrimp roe and sticky rice balls with black sesame filling.

1 Star • Ningbo. Shanghainese are no strangers to Ningbo cuisine and they know what they like! This restaurant with bags of old Shanghai charm serves wild-caught seafood shipped daily from Ningbo then meticulously prepared to highlight its natural flavours. Portion sizes can be tailored to your party size, and the emphasis is on seasonal items, such as razor clams from Ninghai (available Mar-May). The yellow croaker roe aspic and handmade glutinous rice balls are also worth trying.

1 Star • Jiangzhe. After renovation, the restaurant reopened in an elegant space styled to evoke Jiangnan's water towns, divided into zones by perforated screens mimicking Suzhou's gardens and sheer curtains with ink strokes. Jiangzhe classics are given a refined, creative spin, with signatures such as Hangzhou-style minced fish ball with green peas (pre-order only). At lunch, try dim sum such as Qiandaohu rice flour dumplings and four-colour dumplings.

1 Star • Sichuan. As the chain’s flagship, this restaurant showcases live river fish such as long snout catfish, cavefish, and yellow head catfish cooked in Sichuanese style or in hot pots; the owner even acquired a fish farm to ensure their quality. The signature duo hot pot broth features a spicy base made with chicken, pork bones, chillies and pickles, and a tangy tomato base of Xinjiangese tomatoes. House-pickled bamboo shoots from Mount Tianmu are a must.

1 Star • Fujian. As an art lover, Chef May chose to open her place away from the city, in an airy space adorned by artworks on loan from the gallery nearby. Tables are well spaced out, but consider booking a private room for special occasions. Fujian cuisine prevails on the menu and most ingredients are shipped straight from the province. Specialities such as the umami-loaded sea worm jelly and the aromatic Xiamen ginger duck stew are well executed.

1 Star • Cantonese. The head chef, who hails from Guangdong, has been cooking professionally since the age of 15 and has extensive experience at hotels in Shanghai and Nanjing. Each dish embodies the utmost finesse and attention to detail. The range of dim sum at lunch is dazzling – especially the deep-fried taro dumplings with shrimp and chicken filling. His signature crispy-skin chicken, made with birds from Qingyuan, boasts robust flavours and a velvety texture.

1 Star • Sichuan. A landmark of Sichuan cooking from Chengdu, this outpost opened in a beautifully restored, 1930s, Shikumen-style residence. In line with the brand’s ethos, the set menus highlight natural flavours courtesy of refined, well-crafted Sichuan dishes that roll out subtle Hangzhou influences. Depending on the season, premium local produce, like seafood from Jiangzhe, re-creates some of the 24 taste profiles that comprise classical Sichuan cuisine.

1 Star • Cantonese. Yue Hai Tang is the brainchild of an experienced chef who has worked in some of the most prestigious kitchens of Shanghai. His team, which has been with him for a long time, rustles up a wickedly enticing Cantonese barbecue. Besides the main menu, you will also see seasonal offerings and a selection of painstakingly crafted dishes, such as lobster and crab meat in pastry. The wine list boasts over 500 choices. Booking and pre-ordering dishes is recommended.

1 Star • Dongbei. This restaurant, annexed to an art gallery, sports a dining room complete with historical garden views through its floor-to-ceiling windows. Liaoning fisherman’s-style dishes are re-created here, with produce from Changbai Mountains and fish from Bohai Sea and Liao River. Signatures include green willow clams, and stir-fried sea snail with green onion—both flavoursome and full of umami.

1 Star • Shanghainese. In Hongqiao district, near a train station and airport, this restaurant is a popular choice among travellers. The head chef is a Shanghai native, who respects traditions, while exploring other Chinese regional flavours. His menu is heavily based on Shanghainese cuisine, with occasional Cantonese and Huaiyang dishes. Try his marinated pigeon with green Sichuan peppercorns and silky meat, and the umami-rich sautéed shredded fish with chive sprouts.

1 Star • Cantonese. Though its name means "purple and gold", this cosy restaurant is clad in hand-embroidered orange fabric with a bird theme. The Hakkanese chef reinterprets traditional Cantonese fare with a refined touch and occasional Hakkanese twists. The braised pork belly ribs with preserved mustard greens are made with rose myrtle fruit wine from his home county. The double-boiled chicken and fish maw soup with conch seduces with its rich, deep umami.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. The resort's most luxurious hotel was designed in 1912 by Austrian architect Alfred Keller. The property's gourmet restaurant is now named after him, whose terrace offers a splendid view of Čikat Bay, an ideal setting for a fine dining experience. In the kitchen, Austrian chef Michael Gollenz enhances the best local ingredients with modern and creative dishes that are always balanced in taste and harmony. The technical base is French, but there is no shortage of international influences. Along with a small à la carte selection, tasting menus are offered in the evening. Among the most interesting dishes is the scallop with kohlrabi, hazelnut and pineapple, served with a buttermilk vinaigrette, lemon juice and herb oil – a technically complex dish executed with great precision.

1 Star • Creative, Seasonal Cuisine. Surrounded by vines and olive trees, the beautiful country house that is home to this restaurant (as well as an elegant boutique hotel) occupies a peaceful location that offers a real holiday feel. The cuisine makes use of typical ingredients from the region of Pag, such as fish, lamb, vegetables, olive oil and wild herbs, all prepared with a modern and creative touch. There are two tasting menus, one which focuses on the island and the other which is inspired by chef Matija Bregeš’s own experience, while the wine list features excellent labels produced by the Boškinac winery. In summer, tables are laid out on staged terraces surrounded by greenery in an idyllic setting akin to a romantic botanical paradise.

1 Star • Creative, Mediterranean Cuisine. Chef Jeffrey Vella’s cuisine stands out for its strong personality, deep attention to the local area, and the use of carefully selected ingredients sourced from within a 50-kilometer radius. His cooking harmoniously unites the flavors of Croatia’s coast with the intense aromas of the hinterland. The menu, which the chef describes as a true journey, guides guests through seasonal delicacies with tasting courses of different lengths, offering the freedom to customize a bespoke gastronomic experience. Standout dishes include Adriatic lobster with charcoal-roasted cabbage and an intense, nuanced mushroom course. The wine list is curated and well-structured, with traditional, predominantly Croatian labels on the one hand and a vintage cellar with great international crus of excellent vintages on the other. Elegant yet informal service and splendid views of the old town complete a world-class gastronomic experience.

1 Star • Mediterranean Cuisine. Leave the hustle and bustle of the capital behind you and head to this oasis nestled in Zagreb’s surrounding woodland. Dubravkin Put, which takes its name from the forest itself, serves fresh, fragrant Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on raw fish dishes, such as the light, aromatic sea bass and beetroot carpaccio. Among the high-quality meat dishes, the Kobe beef and the Pag island lamb chop served with peas, shallots and thyme are particularly delicious. For those with a sweet tooth, we recommend the Louis XV chocolate, foie gras ice cream and vanilla dessert. After your meal, why not take a stroll through the woods to enjoy the birdsong and natural surroundings?

1 Star (Green Star) • Contemporary, Croatian. Surrounded by centuries-old linden trees and the rows of the family winery – which provide a backdrop for outdoor tables in fine weather – Bernard Korak has shaped a cuisine that is deeply tied to the land and seasonality. After important experiences alongside Three-MICHELIN-Star chefs such as Ana Roš and Massimo Bottura, the chef chose to enhance the traditions of the Plešivica region, where mountains blend with rolling hills covered with vineyards. His proposal consists of a single eight-course blind tasting menu, sometimes flanked by a shorter five-course version, to offer an intense and surprising dining experience. Creative recipes, but always focused on taste: a simple seasoned radicchio leaf becomes an explosion of flavours; the frog legs on spicy almond cream are delicious, as are the snails accompanied by bruscandoli and seasonal mushrooms. Rounding out the experience is impeccable service entrusted to Vera, the chef's sister, who is attentive and thoughtful in every detail.

1 Star • Mediterranean Cuisine, Modern French. Just steps away from the Split waterfront, the entire experience at Krug revolves around the kitchen, located at the center of the dining room and surrounded by an L-shaped counter table that allows guests to interact directly with the chefs. Each dish is presented by the cooks, who share its history and inspiration, thereby highlighting the identity of the place. The cuisine is contemporary, with a strong focus on the product and a deep connection to the local area, reinterpreted with creativity. Almost all the ingredients come from the sea or the surrounding hinterland, while the vegetables are sourced through close collaboration with local growers. Whenever possible, everything is prepared in-house: from the bread to the butter, and even fermented products. Fish and meat are aged in visible refrigerators placed directly in the dining room. A special mention goes to the sommelier, whose expertise is reflected in an extensive and well-curated wine list, perfectly complementing each course.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Mediterranean Cuisine. With the freshest catch, seasonal vegetables and local extra virgin olive oil, Marko Gajski builds a refined cuisine that cleverly combines Dalmatian ingredients, Eastern suggestions, French-style sauces and well-calibrated fermentations. The creative and flavourful dishes are the result of solid technique and recount a personal and consistent gastronomic journey. The service, which is always professional and attentive, takes place in the elegant contemporary room on the second floor, or – during the summer season – a few metres from the sea, with a romantic view of the water and surrounding islands. The restaurant's iconic dishes include shrimp gyoza with mousseline sauce and daikon – a refined and appealing dish that is always on the tasting menu. A vegetarian menu is also available. The sommelier will guide you through excellent pairings, enhancing dishes with a selection of regional and international wines.

1 Star • Creative, Mediterranean Cuisine. Situated next to St Euphemia church in the house where chef Danijel Đekić was born, this family-run restaurant dating back to 1985, originally a traditional tavern, has been transformed into one of the most acclaimed fine-dining restaurants in Croatia. The innovative, regional cuisine is often inspired by old recipes which are then reinterpreted with creative flair. The three menus are named after the colour of their key ingredient: Red for lobster, Green for vegetables and Blue for fish and seafood (but not exclusively). Special mention must be made of the lobster bisque, which features lobster tartare with trout caviar accompanied by a fennel-flavoured fumet and baked squid in black batter. The wine options are also excellent, both for the extensive choice and for the enthusiasm with which the sommelier provides recommendations.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. On the fifth floor of the Hilton Rijeka Costabella, as soon as you step out of the lift you are immediately captivated by a spectacular view: the Adriatic, the coastline and the wild island of Cres stand out unfiltered thanks to the long glass wall that encompasses the entire room, with its contemporary, minimalist design. Deni Srdoč has moved up to executive chef of the group, and resident chef Gabriela Filca leads the crew with confidence and talent. The gastronomic offering continues seamlessly in the modern tale of, both marine and inland, Croatian flavours through a unique tasting menu available in different lengths. Traditional ingredients such as lamb, catch of the day, or typical products such as trout, nettles and strawberries are reinterpreted with impeccable technique, seeking the ultimate balance between taste and aesthetic beauty. The service is professional and attentive, and a curated wine list, which also reaches out internationally, adds to the experience.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. The tasting menu changes four times a year based on the seasons: in winter the undisputed protagonists are mushrooms and truffles together with winged game, while in springtime they are early vegetables. Dinner is a sensational journey among classic creations made with special care and other more modern creations with an original flavor, as well as several varieties of bread baked in an adjacent bakery. The wine list is outstanding: the different regions of Italy are well represented, without however neglecting Europe and America. Considering the great attention paid to tea (from Chine, Japan and Morocco), the restaurant offers not only wine pairing, but also tea pairing and also pairing with both. Strong zero waste ethics means that no part of the products used in the kitchen are wasted.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Contemporary. In the heart of the old town, the restaurant occupies Villa Pelegrini-Tambača, a Renaissance palazzo situated next to the Cathedral of St. James. Chef Rudolf Štefan, deeply knowledgeable about the region, distinguishes himself through constant pursuit of local products: he collaborates with top winemakers for exclusive wine production, makes his own olive oil, and prioritizes land and sea ingredients from Šibenik and its surroundings. Two tasting menus of four and six courses offer a modern reinterpretation of traditional Dalmatian cuisine with creative touches and refined presentations. Among the house signatures is lobster served on mushroom carpaccio with ricotta, sea grapes, and pickled cornichons: a surprising balance of sweetness and acidity. The wine list, with over 500 labels, is of considerable depth and breadth. In warmer months, dining is available along the external staircase with splendid views of the cathedral.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. In the heart of Dubrovnik's harbour, the slightly elevated restaurant affords splendid views of the sea and marina. The exclusive terrace, which stretches along the medieval walls and St. John's fortress, provides a lovely setting for a summer dinner. Chef Marijo Curić, returning to his home town after significant experiences around Europe, holds true to expectations with technical and well-presented cuisine in which Mediterranean elements are enriched with Asian touches with a refined combination of French cooking techniques. Vacuum cooking, robata grilling, and well-mastered fermentations enrich each dish with a unique flavour. Two tasting menus are offered: one with the chef's iconic dishes and the other with the restaurant's classics. Try the snapper with beurre blanc, shellfish sauce and mussel and red shrimp cappuccino. The restaurant also boasts a superb wine cellar, with as many as 450 labels. The selection honours Croatia but is also open to the rest of the world, offering an excellent choice of international labels. The wine list is accompanied by customised wine pairings that may also include creative cocktails.

1 Star • Italian. Matteo De Carli and his wife Lenka Hermanová have been running their restaurant since 2012 after several stops around the world. The beautiful interior is straightforward and modern, with an open show kitchen and a walk-in wine fridge worth seeing as well as a wine fridge wall. Flavoursome cooking has a subtle North Italian bias, and the breads, pastas and ice creams are homemade. Make sure to consider the daily specials - the turbot in puff pastry crust, for exapmle, is a delight! Or let patron and chef Matteo surprise you with a 5-, 6- or 7-course tasting menu. In front of the house there are tables on the cobbled street. Tip: chef's table for max. 8 people in the basement - here the chef cooks right in front of you in a private setting.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, International. The Theatre Hotel not only wows overnight guests with its chic design, but it also offers an interesting dining experience based on an attractive modern concept. In the open kitchen, which can be seen from all over the restaurant, the team puts together modern dishes with light international accents. On the menu you can read for example "potato gnocchi, guanciale, whey" or "duck, chestnut, jerusalem artichoke, mandarin". There are three set menus, each building on the last with an increasing number of courses. The non-alcoholic beverage pairing is also recommended. In addition there is a good selection of cocktails.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Regional Cuisine. The Classical building of the Chateau de Frontiere, which cuts a fine, stately figure, is named after the erstwhile Austria-Morovia border. High vaulted ceilings supported by columns and sleek design create a picture of elegance, in keeping with the stylish location. Large arched windows afford a view onto the property's gardens. The set menu showcases precise modern creations made with regional and seasonal ingredients – they even grow their own vegetables. Good examples of dishes are "grasscarp, bacon, thyme" or "lentil, nduja, celery". To accompany the food, they have excellent wines to recommend, often from great local winemakers, especially from the Morovia region.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Two friends run this chic, minimalist restaurant in a stylishly understated way. Available in a longer or shorter form, their tasting menu comprises creative, well-balanced dishes with a strong focus on seasonal produce and Czech ingredients. Don't be surprised to see a sauce being flambéed tableside or smoke rising from a box (containing a delicious brioche glazed with duck fat)! The excellent medium-rare fallow deer also deserves a mention, as well as ‘Lamb, kale, watercress, green tea’. The friendly and attentive front-of-house team, which includes a sommelier, will be happy to recommend and explain apt wine pairings. The two different versions of the shorter lunchtime set menu are served on weekdays and at the weekend, respectively.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This iconic restaurant is housed in an attractive historical building in central Prague. From one side of the L-shaped room, there is a prime view of the chefs at work in the completely open kitchen. Seasonality and Czech ingredients are the order of the day and elegant, modern and well-balanced dishes are served in a set menu format. The sleek interior has chic features, including a vaulted ceiling, striking chandeliers and a glass wine cabinet. Cheerful and relaxed service and atmosphere. The distinctive shape of the tiles in the kitchen is reprised on both the restaurant floor and the menu.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine, French. A really lovely restaurant located slightly above the town… and it's not just the interior that is elegant and stylish – the food certainly holds its own. The classic/French-based dishes are subtly polished by the chef, as he brings in regional influences; this approach works particularly well with the saddle of fallow deer, for example. The best way to experience the handiwork of the kitchen is to opt for the set menu, "Le Pin". A vegetarian set menu is also available. At midday they only offer a simple lunch menu with two or three courses. Convenient: parking in front of the establishment.

1 Star • Asian Influences, Scandinavian. Featuring an interesting combination of Nordic techniques, predominantly Czech ingredients and Asian spices from the owner's homeland, the cuisine here is rather unique. The resulting dishes are full of finesse and pleasing contrasts - served in 12 or 18 courses. The location itself is something special: unassuming from the outside, it has a surprisingly chic interior. Upon arrival, diners are first led to the bar in the cellar for aperitifs and nibbles – a distinctive blend of exposed old brickwork and modern design makes for an atmospheric setting. Once in the tastefully furnished main room, you have the choice to be seated at the long "private table" or one of the smaller round tables. You can also pay a flying visit to the chef in the "Living Room" and indulge in a few small dishes. Excellent service – the exceedingly friendly team is always on hand - everything runs smoothly and efficiently. Tip: The famous historical city park Riegrovy Sady and the National Museum are within easy walking distance.

1 Star (Green Star) • Seasonal Cuisine, Modern Cuisine. A really interesting modern, open restaurant concept with a fully visible kitchen. They serve a three- or five-course menu based entirely on seasonal Czech ingredients. Without being fancy, the dishes are delicate and elegant, the flavours clear and well balanced. The atmosphere in the large, airy space on the first floor is pleasantly relaxed, and the charming staff are very professional and helpful. The sustainable philosophy followed here is explained in detail – a film projected onto the wall introduces you to the producers. Tip: The Eska bakery located on the ground floor sells house-made bread, as well as preserved vegetables and much more!

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. The foliage-covered walls are the first clue as to Alimentum’s nature-focused ethos. Both plants and animals come from their farm, Lille Østergaard, and are used with a seasonal approach – with the winter menus featuring a host of ingredients that have been preserved throughout the summer. Most courses come with a side dish – a variation of the main ingredient that often includes lesser-used cuts – and the superbly executed combinations feature the likes of lobster tail and carrots or parsnip, chocolate and hazelnuts. For a special occasion, book the ‘Foodlab’ counter for a menu of around 30 courses.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine, Creative. The second incarnation of Alouette sits within a listed building opposite the King’s Garden, and its luxurious brown and beige dining room has something of a 1970s vibe. Chef-Owner Nick Curtin offers a surprise menu built around top-quality ingredients that have been rigorously sourced from hand-picked producers – and each sublimely flavoured dish is delivered with the story of its well-balanced components and their origins. Smoking over fire plays a key role and artisan ceramics add to the visual appeal, with seafood dishes such as monkfish with miso, gooseberry and bee pollen a particular highlight.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Set in the old Østerbro machine factory on the edge of town, ARO upholds the theme of having skilled craftsmen in its workshop. The room has a modern, industrial feel, courtesy of exposed ducting and industrial lighting, and the stark walls and floors are punctuated by black wooden furnishings and sketches pinned to chipboard panels. The atmosphere, too, is pleasingly laid-back, with both the service team and the chefs looking after the guests. Choose either a three- or seven-course set menu, where the chefs get playful with wonderfully fresh produce to create some interesting dishes with a strong identity.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. An 18th Century gunpowder store is the home for this restaurant in the semi-wild waterside area of Margretheholm. Its unassuming exterior and pared-back dish presentation belie the supreme skill and enormous amount of flavour in each course. Exceptional produce is given the space to shine thanks to refined, thoughtful combinations; just-cooked monkfish, for example, is enhanced by a fine ragout of morel mushrooms, a red wine and fish stock reduction and a vin jaune emulsion. The service team run the show with charm and ease.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. This restaurant sets itself the challenge of using only Danish ingredients – hence the name – so expect lots of different techniques and imagination in their dishes; naturally, fermentation plays a part, with jars neatly arranged around the dining room containing pickled produce ranging from green strawberries to chive flowers. There’s a relaxed atmosphere, with burnt oak tables, wool blankets and candles, while the period Latin quarter property has been everything from a school to a dairy.

1 Star • Creative. On the outskirts of town lies this intimate restaurant housed inside an eye-catching wooden dome. There is a certain romance to the interior, which also features plants and artificial grass for a nature-inspired theme. The smooth, professional team serve creative Nordic dishes that vary in style but consistently display an excellent level of skill and refinement.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. Denmark’s oldest castle sits within a UNESCO Geopark, whose undulating landscape was carved out during the Ice Age. In 1937 the castle was transformed into a hotel and restaurant, and today it continues in this vocation, while offering great respect for both its history and the surrounding region. The seasonal multi-course menu is entitled ‘Time and Place’. ‘Time’ is evident in the atmospheric room, where thick whitewashed walls are broken up by huge glass-fronted wine rooms. ‘Place’ comes in the form of produce from the nearby fields, forests and seas, which features in carefully crafted, innovative and intensely flavoured dishes.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This friendly, neighbourhood-style restaurant is located in Frederiksberg, the birthplace of designer Finn Juhl, and the seductively lit dining room is graced with examples of his mid-century furniture. In a refreshing take on the tasting menu format, diners choose five courses from around a dozen offered by the kitchen. Each one is beautifully presented with flavours to match, like juicy, sweet langoustine tails with textures of carrot. The wine list offers plenty of fine burgundy and bordeaux, while artisan kombuchas lead the non-alcoholic options.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. A delightful destination for a romantic weekend, this 19th Century pavilion is located in a park that was historically the garden of a monastery. Today, the building houses both a classically decorated country house hotel and this charming restaurant. Head Chef Jonas Mikkelsen and his team are passionate about sustainably sourced produce, which is invariably of excellent quality and enhanced by the kitchen’s precise technique and harmonious combinations – organic Lolland chicken with fabulous morels, asparagus and ramson is a prime example.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. One of the city’s most elegant restaurants, Gastromé sits within a smartly refurbished villa dating from 1911. The focus here is on the glass-walled kitchen, where luxurious ingredients – including those from their mini farm – are prepared using complex, modern techniques. The result is refined, elegant cooking that has a wonderful balance of both textures and flavours – some leaning towards local traditions and others of a more international bent. You might find grilled scallop with dashi, tomato and radish or wood pigeon with blackberry, pickled beetroot and parsnip.

1 Star • Creative. There’s a homely feel to this intimate spot hidden away in the suburbs, where Chef-Owner Jonathan Tam offers a unique experience that’s best enjoyed from a seat at the counter. The tasting menu – entitled ‘Solar’ – follows 24 solar micro-seasons throughout the year, and the original, exciting dishes combine Danish ingredients with Asian recipes and flavours. The focus is largely on vegetables, with produce sourced locally from organic farms and ethical producers, and any food waste is turned into miso and shoyu in collaboration with Koji Copenhagen. Non-alcoholic drinks pairings add an interesting twist.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. A remote beachside eatery with a relaxed atmosphere, an open kitchen and a superb sea panorama; this is best enjoyed from the terrace, although all tables have a view. Tasting menus showcase the finest island produce and the accomplished, original, highly seasonal cooking offers superbly balanced, contrasting flavours.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. This extraordinary building stands directly in the fjord and its unique interior is equally striking. Dinner is an engaging, multi-course affair that begins with snacks served at the gorgeous glass-topped bar. Then it’s through to the aptly named ‘Sail Room’ for the main event, though you may be taken to other areas of the building for some courses. The creative, sophisticated dishes showcase exceptional produce, including Limfjord mussels and wonderful local trout. The passionate service team help to make this a truly special destination.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, French Contemporary. History is all around you at this time-honoured establishment. Hailing from France, Mr and Mrs Marchal opened an eatery here in 1755, before it was later transformed into the Hotel D’Angleterre. Today, this stylish hotel restaurant pays tribute to the Marchal family, both through its name and via its precisely prepared dishes, which come with Danish overtones but a distinctly classical French base – exemplified by the likes of turbot with celeriac, blue mussels and champagne sauce or crêpes Suzette. The floor-to-ceiling wine cellar is an impressive sight, as is the view out over the Royal Square.

1 Star • Creative. Claus Henriksen's restaurant is set in a listed, early 20th-century red-brick house in the Annebergparken. The area is something of a haven for artisan creatives, with studios belonging to carpenters and glass blowers sitting adjacent to the restaurant; Claus himself even makes the plates that his dishes are served on. Excellent seasonal Danish ingredients are the bedrock of the menus and, while there's an inventive streak to some of the cooking, the chefs also understand the power of simplicity, cleverly allowing the central components – usually vegetables, seafood or game – to really shine.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The Park Lane Copenhagen hotel sits in the chic neighbourhood of Hellerup, and within its basement, you’ll find Allan Schultz’s intimate Parsley Salon, where beautifully crafted Danish oak furnishings sit beside shelves packed with cookery books. Allan’s finely balanced, classically inspired dishes showcase locally grown vegetables and seafood from Nordic waters alongside foraged berries and coastal plants, so you might find poached langoustine with seaweed and a sherry beurre blanc or North Sea cod with blue mussels, potato and parsley emulsion. Interesting wine and juice pairings accompany.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Head for the Flesborg Fjord, and at the water’s edge you’ll find this early-20th-century villa boasting a cosy bar, parquet floors and light wood furnishings. After almost a decade working at Henne Kirkeby Kro, British-born Paul Proffitt set upon his own in this most idyllic spot on the opposite side of south Jutland; book a space in the glass-cubed ‘Doris’ to watch him up close. Modern cuisine marries local produce and a little playful childhood nostalgia, in dishes such as dripping served with a buttery brioche, aged dairy cow tartare or a surf 'n' turf of sirloin with oyster cream.

1 Star • Creative. There’s something of a futuristic charm to this newer area of the city set between skyscrapers and residential buildings overlooking the port. Locate one of the latter, Pakhusene, step inside the lift and hit ‘F’ to reach the 11th floor; here you’ll find a small room where tables line the floor-to-ceiling windows to one side and the open kitchen occupies the other. The Chef’s Tasting Menu is made up of familiar Danish flavours, with dishes ranging from bread with brown shrimps and horseradish to red deer, plum and truffle, and finishing with the likes of Jerusalem artichokes, kefir and apple.

1 Star • Japanese. The historical gem that is Nordhavn’s old Customs House was painstakingly deconstructed in 2019, with each limestone block numbered, before 2024 saw it lovingly reassembled again in its same 1916 design. Now home to 15-seater Sushi Anaba, it combines Danish tradition with a Japanese aesthetic, the centrepiece of which is a beautiful Douglas Fir counter. Run by a Dane who trained as a sushi apprentice in Tokyo, the Edomae-style nigiri and otsumami demonstrate incredible attention to detail, from the three-vinegar-seasoned rice from Niigata served at body temperature to the sumiyaki (flan) cooked in a cast-iron mould over charcoal.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Danish. This restaurant is situated on the 17th floor of the ultra-modern Alsik hotel and boasts views over Flensburg Fjord. The set, multi-course menu offers innovative, beautifully crafted dishes inspired by the local South Jutland region and featuring top quality ingredients from around the globe. Accompanying wine flights are available.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Classic Cuisine. A characterful 17C thatched inn by a pond in a picturesque village, with a delightful courtyard terrace and three elegant, intimate rooms. In keeping with the surroundings, cooking has a classical heart but is presented in a modern style. Dishes have deceptive depth and the wine list is a tome of beauty.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. A whitewashed townhouse is the setting for Karim Khouani’s basement restaurant, where paintings add a splash of colour to the chic, intimate room. Karim hails from Marseille, with an Italian mother and a Moroccan father, so while his technically adept, flavour-packed cooking has a French base, you might notice these influences too. The delightful dishes could include langoustine tartare with lavender cream, clams and caviar or goat’s cheese sorbet with olive oil, bergamot and bee pollen – and, as he is also a talented pâtissier, the stunning duck fat and pink praline brioche is a real standout.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. An extensive renovation has given a pristine shine to this over 100-year-old restaurant inside a red-brick villa. A ring-shaped, marble-topped bar sits in front of a gleaming open kitchen, where the chefs craft boldly flavoured dishes from superb produce – such as Jutland beef tenderloin glazed in cognac, truffle and green Madagascan peppercorns. There’s a sense of classic luxury throughout, typified by the collection of prestige champagnes housed inside an impressive wine cellar.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. The up-and-coming former industrial district of Kanalbyen plays host to this contemporary, design-led restaurant on the ground floor of a modern apartment building at the water’s edge; take in the view over the Lillebælt Strait, while the service team look after your every need. Behind the scenes Michael Nørtoft creates refined, technically accomplished dishes with deceptively simple names – maybe ‘squid, potatoes and elderflower’ or ‘rhubarb, øllebrød and honey' – which belie the complexity that goes into their creation. To complement these are some interesting wine and juice pairings.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. In a small coastal town by the North Sea you'll find this contemporary greenhouse-like building. Made from wood and glass, it is a bright and airy space that is filled with customers enjoying quality cooking. Chef Nicolas Min Jørgensen has created a menu themed around seasonal and local produce, which is used with a nose-to-tail, low waste ethos. Dishes provide pure, natural flavours and are prepared with care and precision.

1 Star • Creative. Start with a drink in the courtyard of this handsome yellow building in the city’s Latin Quarter before heading for the elegant, contemporary dining room. Udtryk means 'expression' in Danish and the well-balanced tasting menu blends techniques and flavours from across Asia and Europe in refined, interesting dishes. You might find a claypot of koshihikari rice, Norlin Wagyu, Danish eel and shiitake mushrooms, followed by monaka with hand-dived Norwegian scallops, watercress and gingko nuts for dessert.This restaurant is temporarily closed due to a fire.

1 Star • Creative. Above an upmarket seaside town filled with designer shops and cafés – and not far from their Villa Vest Badehotel – is this beautifully situated property that’s built into the cliffs and offers incredible views out over the beach and the North Sea. Chef Anders Holm is from the area, and his cooking gives pride of place to local seafood, whether that’s on the shorter three-course menu or the well-balanced, hyper-seasonal tasting menu. Said seafood comes together with meats bred by the owner and other top-notch produce in precisely prepared, highly creative dishes such as ‘kingfish, gooseberries, elderflower’.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Industrial styling, intimate lighting and a laid-back feel are the hallmarks of this striking modern villa conversion in the residential suburb of Jumeirah – along with the huge open kitchen and grill which gives the restaurant its name. The variety and excellent quality of global ingredients are grilled to perfection over oak, hickory or hay, each of which impart their own distinctive flavour. The talented kitchen has the know-how to keep things simple, enhancing the skilfully cooked dishes subtly with well-judged seasoning.

1 Star • French. It sits atop the architectural masterpiece that is the Burj Al Arab, so expect the restaurant and the food it serves to be sophisticated and refined; take the lift to the 27th floor and ask for a table by the floor-to-ceiling windows, as the views are breathtaking. The experienced chef’s menu has a French base and Mediterranean influences; top quality ingredients, some locally sourced, are cooked with precision to create modern dishes with bold flavours and playful textures. Expect luxury products like truffles and caviar, excellent sauces and desserts which are as beautiful as they are delicious. Attentive, professional staff explain the dishes with pride and enthusiasm.

1 Star • Indian Vegetarian. Each of the exquisite and strikingly presented vegetarian dishes on the multi-course ‘avatāra Experience’ menu are constructed with the same supreme care and ability, and they all add up to an experience you won’t forget. There’s a story behind each creation, which the delightful team take time to explain. The restaurant, located in Dubai Hills Business Park, is uniquely decorated and painted in a very special light green. The tables face a large, wide altar-like table where chefs can be seen adding finishing touches to each dish.

1 Star • Traditional British. Doors magically slide open as you approach this large, dark and atmospheric restaurant on the first floor of the Atlantis The Royal hotel. Using the principle of ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’, the menu is a facsimile of the one in London, so that means British dishes from across the centuries invigorated with prime ingredients. ‘Rice & Flesh’ and the much-photographed ‘Meat Fruit’ are the two classic starters; for dessert, order the ‘Tipsy Cake’ which uses pineapples that you can watch being spit-roasted in the corner of the on-view kitchen.

1 Star • Chinese, Contemporary. Located within Atlantis the Palm Hotel, the Dubai outpost of this ever-growing global brand delivers all you need for a fun night out. It’s moodily lit, with smooth service, a party soundtrack, and lattice screens for added privacy. The best place to sit is in one of the booths to the side of the lounge and next to the back-lit blue bar. The menu of reimagined Chinese dishes includes all the Hakkasan classics, as well as a few exclusive to Dubai, such as the lychee lobster with yuzu pearl. If it’s spice you’re after, go for the Assam seafood toban. Created using quality ingredients, the accomplished dishes are colourful and vibrant with some punchy flavours. Save room for one of the creative desserts.

1 Star • Japanese. This little ‘gem’ of a restaurant, set on the fourth floor of the Bulgari Hotel, is elegance personified, with understated, clean-lined décor and stunning views over the Dubai skyline. 18 counter seats make for a comfortable, intimate meal, where sixth-generation sushi master Masahiro Sugiyama and his team show off their considerable knife skills. Taking the individual tastes of their guests into consideration, they blend them with prime ingredients imported from Japan to create a rich omakase experience unique to each diner. This is refined, technically adept and beautifully presented cuisine – and the warm service from staff dressed in traditional kimonos further adds to the experience.

1 Star • Indian. London, Doha, and now, Dubai’s Opera district becomes the latest home to this Indian restaurant that takes its name from the intricate Kashmir shawls worn in the 16th century. Grand chandeliers and a plush cocktail bar underline the interior’s opulent design, while prime ingredients play a big part across the menu. The spices are perfectly balanced and harmonious, with some noteworthy signatures, such as Bhatti Ka Octopus and Sindhi Methi Gosht (aka goat curry), reflecting the kitchen’s craft. If you’re headed to a show at the Dubai Opera, this place offers a set lunch menu as a pre-theatre option.

1 Star • Modern French. Internationally renowned chef Anne-Sophie Pic made her culinary debut in Dubai with this restaurant on the 25th floor of the One&Only One Za’abeel hotel. Located in the cantilever known as The Link, the large space comes with soft tones and features a bar topped with a white marble counter at the front and an open kitchen at the back. The restaurant offers set menu options along with an a la carte menu, with dishes such as Les Berlingots ASP© with 20 months aged Comté, mushroom and coffee consommé, Wagyu beef with seaweed eggplant, and roasted pear, honey ginger with slivers of Buddha’s hand – all of which deliver fine, delicate and sophisticated combinations, with judiciously used spices for extra depth and complexity.

1 Star • Thai contemporary. Helmed by Abhiraj Khatwani in conjuction with Mohamad Orfali, this Thai restaurant is the Dubai-born chef’s ode to the cuisine closest to his heart. The place, meaning ‘lime’ in Thai, serves an 11-course tasting menu comprised of Thai classics with a twist. The dishes stay true to their roots, offering vibrant, fresh, highly authentic mouth-watering Thai flavours with wonderful balance to the spicing. The experience is perfectly paired with five non-alcoholic drinks, created and made in-house. Expect engaging, smooth service with a lively soundtrack throughout.

1 Star • Creative. Home-grown – and largely self-taught– Solemann Haddad tells the story and the inspiration behind each of the cleverly conceived and carefully constructed dishes on his highly original ‘surprise’ menu. He was one of the first to bring alive the top quality Middle Eastern ingredients and flavours through the clever use of Japanese notes and techniques. Perched on the roof of a smart residential building, there are two sittings for dinner at the 15-seater counter; do try to arrive on time as everyone is served together.

1 Star • Contemporary, Middle Eastern. Three Syrian brothers own and run this deservedly popular restaurant: a light and airy space dominated by a striking, two-storey open kitchen. Original, playful small plates are Mediterranean at their core but display global influences. The cooking seamlessly delivers bold, complex and balanced flavours, as well as lovely contrasts of texture. The tasting menu includes classics from their previous menus such as the ‘ooh la la foie gras’ and their ‘corn bomb’, as well as new dishes such as their sea bream and ‘maftoul’ (Palestinian couscous). For the full experience, go for the non-alcoholic pairing comprised of drinks fermented in house. Service is endearing, relaxed and super-friendly.

1 Star • Creative. It's not often sharks and stingrays swim past you as you dine but, then again, there aren’t many restaurants with huge windows looking into an aquarium of 65,000 marine animals. From the moment you descend the marble spiral staircase into this unique restaurant at the Atlantis, you’ll find yourself transfixed and fully immersed. Each course of the ten-course tasting menu tells a story of explorers who have navigated around the Atlantic Ocean; many of the dishes are finished off at the table with an added dash of theatricality.

1 Star • Contemporary. 2024 saw Chef Dani García bring his popular Madrid restaurant to the St. Regis Gardens on the Palm Jumeirah. Located at the back of Leña, this intimate and dark room with a large semi-circular table seats 14 guests and overlooks a kitchen with an open fire and grills, a style Chef Dani dubs “Fire Omakase”. The experience is immersive and engaging, with chefs guiding diners through the 11-course menu and explaining in detail the creative and technically skilled dishes, such as sea cucumber carbonara. Desserts are a particular highlight, especially the confidently and skilfully executed burnt pumpkin purée and mandarin sorbet.

1 Star • Portuguese. On the 6th floor of the chic, beachside Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, is this bustling yet relaxed spot set around an open kitchen, with an infinity pool on its terrace and sea and city views. The attentive service team ensure your dining experience is well-paced and eminently enjoyable. The chef and his team understand the importance of great quality produce and showcase a passion for Portuguese culinary traditions. The resulting vibrant dishes offer Portuguese flavours with a modern edge. The menu offers something for everyone, with plenty of dishes to share; leave room for dessert to taste their freshly baked pastéis de nata!

1 Star • Creative. Set within the same striking building as NOA is the stylish NOA Chef’s Hall, where you start your evening with an aperitif in the romantic lounge overlooking Tallinn Bay. The on-view kitchen is the heart of the restaurant – with the open fire used to great effect – and luxury ingredients are to the fore, be that Canadian lobster or preserved, locally foraged produce. The creative 7 course menu keeps you engaged from start to finish, with complex, highly original dishes packed full of complementary flavours and layers of texture. For one course you are invited up to the chef's counter.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. It might be slightly more challenging than usual to reach the entrance – you receive a code to open the side door before taking the lift up to the 14th floor – but once you’re safely ensconced, the view from this modern office building is worth it. The modern open-plan interior allows you to see into the kitchen where the chefs prepare the interesting set menu. Top quality local and international ingredients come together in flavoursome dishes crafted using classical techniques, with the breads in particular being a highlight.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. An intimate, elegant and professionally run restaurant with just ten tables – everything from the cutlery to the decanters is made by Finnish craftspeople. Set menus feature modern interpretations of traditional Finnish dishes, with first class ingredients used in detailed, technically skilled combinations.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative, Regional Cuisine. A seasonal and sustainable ethos runs throughout this cosy, passionately run restaurant – neatly demonstrated by its shelves filled with jars of fermenting foodstuffs. The all-Scandinavian ingredients – like glistening Norwegian cod – are at the heart of the cooking, with a real purity to the best of the dishes. Vegetables get a chance to shine too, and there’s a vegan menu available if you want to experience this to the full. Dishes are brought to the table by the chefs, and the natural wine flights are well-chosen.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. Following the short walk up the hill, it’s time to sit back and enjoy the jovial atmosphere at this intimate restaurant. From the chefs preparing the dishes in front of your eyes to the sommelier’s well-selected pairings, everything runs like clockwork here. Chef Eric Mansikka’s surprise tasting menu features powerful flavours and colours, yet a delicate, very detailed touch, with the ingredients either foraged (such as the herbs, mushrooms and flowers) or sourced from local farmers, fishermen and hunters. In a fun touch, their empty beer bottles are blown into uniquely designed water glasses.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. A pretty yellow townhouse located opposite the pier plays host to this cool, minimalist restaurant, where four rooms decked out with locally designed furniture have a delightfully understated feel. Choose between the à la carte, a tasting menu or a pre-order seasonal tasting menu, all of which showcase produce from the north of the country, with meats such as moose and elk a feature. The refined yet richly flavoured dishes are beautifully presented and often innovative in design, with the sautéed reindeer with Lappish almond potato the chef’s signature. As well as a wine pairing, they offer non-alcoholic drinks crafted in-house.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. In the city’s picturesque Old Town, you’ll find this 1920s former chocolate factory whose historic exterior is in contrast to the sleek and stylish restaurant within. Dried flowers on the walls impart a ‘back to nature’ feel that’s a perfect match for the menu, whose heart is firmly settled in Porvoo. Local, seasonal local ingredients feature in immaculately presented dishes which are detailed, complex and composed of subtle, beautifully judged flavours. These could include the likes of pike-perch mousseline with peas and spinach or mallard breast with kale, apple and lemon thyme.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. (Temporarily closed) Situated within Le Bristol, this brasserie is truly one of a kind! The interior will win you over at first glance: interspersed with imposing gilded columns, it has large luminescent dahlia motifs on its orange walls. At its heart, a grand staircase opens up, leading down to the lower level where tables rub shoulders with the open kitchens. Chic, shimmering, both bustling and intimate, this place hits all the right notes. As for the food, this is a discreetly original take on the French classics we know and love. Dishes are carefully presented and flavours are beautifully combined. This is a lesson in how things should be done.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Opposite Palais Rohan, an architectural masterpiece completed in 1741, this ‘1741’ is the quintessence of stylish, depicted by cosy, pleasantly hushed dining rooms and a counter that shines the spotlight on the consummate handiwork of the kitchen team and chef Jérémy Page. The chef, a former disciple of Robuchon, signs delicate, precise recipes, strewn with nods to Alsace. His creativity is particularly notable in sauces and jus: seaweed soup, curry-laced scallop stock or a Grand Veneur game sauce…

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Lumio, a village of Haute-Corse, is the quintessence of light and flavour... The chef conjures up subtle, delicious fare, enhanced by creative touches and ever respectful of the fine ingredients in which the island abounds. Examples include poached langouste served with a shellfish butter, sabayon of shellfish and tomato-flavoured bisque or a 48-hour confit of goat with a Meaux mustard meat gravy, curatella and lemon paste. The contemporary interior leads onto a pretty terrace, providing the perfect foil to sample pared-back cuisine drenched in the flavours of the Mediterranean and the land of Corsica. Friendly, attentive service. Prolong the fine dining experience with a night at the hotel overlooking the Bay of Calvi.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. "An accent tells us where someone is from; it tells us about their country, their region and their history. It is this idea of openness and discovery that I want to champion, a cuisine made up of encounters and exchanges," says Ayumi Sugiyama, the Japanese owner and head pastry chef of this contemporary Scandinavian-style restaurant. Chef Romain Mahi's dishes are a combination of classic fare with more daring creations and subtle experiments with roasted aromas and smoky flavours: Arctic char baked in the oven, celery and cauliflower cooked in a clementine jus, caraway seeds and orange peel marmalade with roasted spices. From start to finish, we see balance and precision... right through to the light, well-crafted sweet creations. Warm and vibrant service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Yannick Delpech, previously chef of L'Amphitryon, returns to the stage for a second act with this atypical and charming restaurant. In a former sawmill, he combines fine dining with the bohemian spirit of a table d'hôtes. Soaking up an atmosphere created by music and a video projection, some 15 diners per seating are served a surprise set menu. Readable and indulgent, this authentic cuisine enhanced with robust-flavoured sauces and jus (the chef's trademark) never fails to make an impression: octopus cooked in red wine daube-style and married with lamb shoulder confit; red mullet with bottarga butter; offal toast; beef cheek slowly simmered with braised leeks and slices of grilled rib steak… the names speak volumes! All the wines on the menu are organic and natural.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the trendy, hipster district of Saint Aubin, this tiny bistro, taken over by Arnaud Darbas and Virginie Béziaud, conjures up crisp fresh dishes oozing with distinctive flavours. The technique and creativity of the youthful chef, who trained with the best, are impressive: green asparagus and a light frothy sabayon with smoked olive oil; line-caught hake from Saint Jean de Luz, yuzu-laced shellfish and roasted white asparagus; Ibaïama pork, varied textures of seasonal veggies, garlic emulsion and a punchy gravy. In a simply appointed yet inviting interior, Virginie seamlessly manages the front of house, while sharing her passion for wine with diners.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this cosy, welcoming room adorned in soft shades, the menu rolls out a lineup of premium ingredients that depend on the whim of chef Yoshi Nagato (Maison Rostang, Le Cinq, Épicure) and his partner, Asuka Ishiba, in charge of desserts. Brittany lobster salad, wax beans, Piedmont hazelnuts and a dressing of lobster roe; Challans duckling lacquered in honey and Sichuan pepper; roast sweetbread and sautéed girolles… Stylish, high-precision plating and generous helpings. Fine range of organic and natural wines.

1 Star • Japanese. The whitewashed facade of this small bolthole tucked away in a lane blends in so perfectly with its surroundings that you may even miss it entirely! Behind its spruce façade lies a jealously kept secret, namely exquisite Japanese cuisine. The pristine white interior is both elegant and minimalist, in line with the visual charter commonly associated with restaurants in Japan. Take a seat at the counter (eight seats only) for a close-up view of the teppanyaki griddles. As you sample a single tasting menu, you will discover subtle, precise cuisine that carefully crafts culinary ties between Japan and France. The seasonings, cooking, carving, cutting, slicing and chopping are all at the service of the main ingredient, which is presented as simply and as artfully as possible. Sashimi, Brittany lobster, chateaubriand steak or sweetbread, cooked on the teppanyaki griddle, and served with fine Burgundy wines, painstakingly selected by the chef. Dutiful, professional service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. On the doorstep of the Cerdon vineyards, this picturesque medieval village in the Bugey and Revermont region is home to a great establishment! Jérôme Busset works tirelessly (in and out of the kitchen) to devise an intelligent surprise menu with a range of options. Modern, intuitive, signature cuisine, made with cherry-picked local produce: market garden asparagus and carrots, snails with wild herbs, Poncin honey and insightful wine tips. All of which is served in a pleasant airy dining room with a lightwell and a vaulted conservatory.

1 Star • Creative. A stone’s throw from La Madeleine district, Akrame Benallal, a live wire if ever there was, operates in a surprisingly secretive establishment, hidden by a huge coach gateway. A fan of Pierre Soulages’ work, the fashionably trendy, cutting-edge interior is dominated by black, enhanced by a few photos and sculptures… The menu shines the spotlight on first-class ingredients, inventive recipes and carefully crafted dishes; the “carte blanche” menus are a treasure trove of bold surprises.

1 Star • Provençal. Alain Llorca, an emblematic figure of French Riviera cuisine, boasts a star-studded career that encompasses the mythical luxury Negresco Hotel and the Moulin de Mougins. In his farmhouse in La Colle-sur-Loup, whose terrace commands a jaw-dropping view of Saint Paul de Vence, this virtuoso chef celebrates the Mediterranean. The result is steeped in subtle, delicate, spot-on notes: fish from small boats, caponata and lightly seared green chard with a spicy sauce; roast veal with cream of tuna, burrata and sage ravioli; warm chocolate tart and citrus-laced sorbet.

1 Star • Creative. We’ve all heard of the American dream, but Alan Geaam prefers the French version! After a childhood marked by the civil war in Lebanon, he moved to Paris aged 24 with just one idea in mind: to make his way in the world of gastronomy – his true passion. He started out washing dishes, then became a commis and avid reader of cookery books, climbing the rungs of the gastronomic ladder. At the helm of his own restaurant, he has exploded on to the culinary scene as he brings together all that he has learned over the years. His original recipes skilfully combine France’s rich heritage with touches from Lebanon in a true mixing of cultures, and his hard work and passion shine through in each and every dish. A fine dining experience.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Since it was founded in 1903, this iconic Chamonix establishment has been run by the same family. Chef Damien Leveau’s regional score (Arctic char and whitefish from Lake Geneva, snails from the Mont Blanc area, locally bred pork and lamb) underscored by produce from the herb garden, such as oxalis, lovage, citrus thyme, savory, lemon balm and sage, is served in a stylish, understated interior. The spruce hamlet is also home to Maison Carrier, which serves authentic regional fare in a former Alpine farmstead.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. This old bar has been transformed into a “living space” by a chef born in the village who has accumulated an impressive number of food awards. The son and grandson of a butcher, Jérôme Jaegle is just as much a market gardener and permaculture enthusiast as he is a chef with an impressive CV, having worked with famous names such as Jean-Yves Schillinger and Christian Têtedoie. Almost Scandinavian in appearance, his restaurant is decorated in light wood and natural materials and is named after Alchemilla, the favourite plant of alchemists. His creative and individual cuisine focuses, unsurprisingly, on herbs and vegetables grown in his kitchen garden, as well as other locally sourced ingredients. The set menus have different themes, with a focus on vegetables and the sea.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Business is booming in this luxurious hotel surrounded by vineyards, thanks to plush guestrooms, a rose garden... and its restaurant, established in a bright, modern dining room whose large bow window affords a beautiful view of the landscaped grounds. Chef Nawal Rezagui crafts a precise score rich in character and ambition: a briny flan of smoked tuna and Aquitaine caviar; loin of veal in Brittany curry spices with salsifies and garlic and olive seasoning; a creamy iced extravaganza of bergamot, grapefruit, kombucha and dill oil… Bistronomic menu at lunchtime.

1 Star • Creative. In this intimate establishment near the Quais de Seine, Tunisian-born chef Youssef Marzouk cooks up a delicious culinary symphony in his open kitchen-bar. Flanked by two assistants with equally prestigious pedigrees (Cheval Blanc Paris, Carlton, Ritz, Jacques Faussat), at dinnertime he puts together a single surprise set menu featuring a subtle marriage of French tradition and North African flavours. His confident technique shines through in his meticulously plated creations, bolstered by his Tunisian sensibility, which you can detect in his sparing use of spices, herbs and citrus fruits: saddle of lamb done two ways, grilled summer vegetable foam, meat jus with smoked eel etc.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Alexis Baudin has had extensive work carried out on this building to transform it into a spacious contemporary restaurant. Lovely high ceilings and a palette of beiges bring understated elegance to this space opening onto a pleasant garden terrace with a hundred-year-old cedar tree. The chef aims to showcase local produce in his carte blanche menus: delicious ingredients such as vegetables from small market gardeners, mushrooms from the Meuse, saffron from Guémar, Wagyu beef from cows reared in Lorraine go into beautifully presented and perfectly balanced dishes. Flawless service.

1 Star • Creative. According to legend, bear’s garlic, a.k.a. as wild garlic or allium ursinum, starts to sprout at the same time as the brown bear leaves its lair after hibernation. After their winter fast, the hungry bears devour the young leaves, hence the name of this plant that has come to symbolise strength and fertility. Frédérique and Lionel Hénaff have opened the restaurant of their dreams outside Quimper’s town centre in a bid to celebrate Brittany’s gourmet produce. Seafood occupies a star role in their appetising cast, including scallops from the Bay of Morlaix and abalone. The chef’s inventive cuisine, firmly anchored in nature, boldly blends a profusion of ingredients, among which herbs and flowers, with a weakness for light foamy siphoned sauces. A tasteful, elegant vibe sets the scene in the dining room, which also offers a handful of seats at the counter facing the open kitchen. The best of Brittany: what’s not to like?

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. High up in Courchevel, Alpage is the fine dining restaurant of Hotel Annapurna. Under the direction of chef Jean-Rémi Caillon, it promises a unique and exclusive experience. In an intimate space with bay windows and open kitchens, he reinvents the flavours of Savoie by combining peasant traditions with modern touches. Premium ingredients, local plants and produce from the terroir, such as crozets or Chartreuse, come together in balanced and elegant creations. Each dish, underpinned by precise cooking and refined sauces, embodies a subtle blend of nature and technique. Attentive and meticulous service completes this special experience, which caters perfectly to fans of Alpine gastronomy.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. What initially draws the eye, right in front of us, is the lake hemmed in by wooded banks – the location alone is worth seeing. But above all there is the remarkable work of the chef – after all, that's what we came for… He excels at transforming fine ingredients (scallops hot-pâté style; Breton lobster with raspberries, dried caviar and mizuna; pigeon breast roasted and smoked on the barbecue). His trompe l'œil desserts are at once amusing and delicious (apricot, lemon, chestnut – depending on the season). For fans of truffles, the chef serves a truffle menu all year round: it wouldn't seem right not to indulge.

1 Star • Creative. In a chic district of Bordeaux, between Allées de Tourny and Place des Grands-Hommes, chef Alexandre Baumard (ex Logis de la Cadène in Saint-Émilion and L'Observatoire du Gabriel) presides over this elegant two-storey restaurant. Courtesy of a tasting menu (dinnertime only), the legible, delicate cuisine showcases quality ingredients, mainly fish and seafood, that are precisely and creatively prepared, e.g. plancha grilled squid, flanked by a rustic slice of Grenier médocain (local cured meat). Damien Amilien's desserts, as delicious as they are high-flying, continue in this subtle vein – illustrated by quince and burnt vanilla. The score unveils a more accessible bistronomic slant at lunchtime. Attentive service and a terrific wine list.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Unlike many of the other restaurants in the east of Paris, this one has gone for classic elegance: a refined decor, tablecloths, stylish service. Perhaps this is the mark of the good taste of Italian couple Cecilia Spurio (pastry) and Eugenio Anfuso (cooking), who are familiar with Michelin-starred restaurants. Prepared with small pieces of citrus fruit and cashew nuts, the smoked Galician veal tartare is served in a sea urchin shell, topped with a quenelle of sea urchin ice cream. For his red mullet à la bourguignonne, the chef arranges the fish on shredded beef and cabbage leaves, the whole of which is then doused with a superb sauce. This is a modern iteration of the French repertoire, punctuated by a few Italian touches or other influences from further afield, executed with precision and a clear penchant for acidic notes.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The Pavillon de la Reine, a magnificent residence in Place des Vosges, is named after Anne of Austria, Queen of France and wife of Louis XIII, who once lived here. The refurbished dining room sports a plush, sophisticated vibe, while the patio is idyllic in fine weather to sample a carpaccio of golden grey mullet or monkfish à la meunière. Their oeufs à la neige meringue extravaganza is out of this world.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. In a lively, working-class enclave, this place serves good contemporary cuisine. Talented chef Thibaut Spiwack, whose CV includes Michelin-starred kitchens, finds original ways to showcase produce from the Paris region. The emphasis is on sustainable development and a desire to challenge the codes of gastronomy. Attractive set menu plus a few à la carte options at lunchtime; in the evening, a single set menu with several courses. A moment of gastronomic pleasure.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Housed in a sumptuous 18C private mansion that calls to mind a small palace, Apicius is named after this Ancient Roman epicurean who is said to have written the first cookbook. Chef Mathieu Pacaud is keeping the flame alive at this legendary place with a magnificent terrace that amounts to a remarkably bucolic garden in the city. The dishes perpetuate fine bourgeois tradition and achieve a synthesis between classicism and creativity. Time passes, Apicius changes… but remains!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Bang in the city centre, on the first floor of Saint Pierre Market, this swanky restaurant enjoys a lofty location. The stylish venue sports a series of beautifully appointed contemporary dining rooms and exquisite tableware. Chef Arkadiusz Zuchmanski, of Polish extraction, decided to move to France to fortify a vocation that took root in the kitchen of his forebears. He confesses an unbridled passion for noble ingredients and for Auvergne, which reminds him of the landscapes of his home city, Drzewica. The focus is on visually striking plating and honest, simply crafted ingredients, such as foie gras with hand-picked wild pepper or sautéed sweetbread with truffle parsnip.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. Imagine wild moorland buffeted by the ocean with the rocky island of Raguenez glinting in the sunshine just a short distance away. Sustainable gastronomy is the name of the game here: the ingredients are strictly seasonal, harvested from the vegetable garden or sourced from small-scale producers, and the fish is caught locally. Comfortably seated with a view of the sea, diners enjoy Jérôme Gourmelen's dishes, characterised by well-defined flavours and careful presentation, eg his symphony of raw ikejime fish. Friendly service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. Assisted front of house by sommelier Océane (his partner), Clément Dumont, a young chef from the region with some solid experience, has made this restaurant not far from the Royal Citadel the new place to be. An inspired technician with a love of plants and the seasons, he cooks up creative, at times bold cuisine that is inspired by the village, Loire poultry and fish, and of course the goat's cheese, vegetables from his own kitchen garden, and herbs picked by small-scale grower Juliette Krier. One example is the starter based on white asparagus from the Richelais area, preserved egg yolk, elderberry and sake. A pleasant terrace in the shade of the wisteria.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. Established in an early-20C textile factory on an entirely rehabilitated industrial wasteland, chef Félix Robert and his wife Nidta, after working for Alexandre Gauthier at La Grenouillère in Tokyo and then at Troisgros, now give free rein to their talents in a stripped-back, stylish interior. The chef's creative and personal repertory is dominated by seafood and vegetables and liberally scattered with nods to Japan and Asia – green curry, ponzu, shiso and saké are unveiled in set menus. One example is semi-cooked lobster with bisque-flavoured crackers paired with citrus fruit and Vietnamese coriander – throbbing with flavour! A restaurant whose resounding success is well deserved.

1 Star • Italian. This restaurant is in an original location on the first floor of the Armani store in St-Germain-des-Prés (not far from the church). The interior is pure and elegant, in the designer's style, of course: a palette of beiges, banquette seating, glossy walls, subdued lighting… Might this be just another shopfront in all but name? On the contrary, this ristorante is one of the best Italian eateries in Paris. Chef Massimo Tringali, former sous-chef at Casadelmar in Porto-Vecchio, works with high-quality ingredients in the spirit of contemporary Italian cuisine. It is fresh, tasty and skilfully done: a fine piece of work.

1 Star • Mediterranean Cuisine. Located in the courtyard of a building that once housed the village doctors and is now the White 1921 Saint-Tropez hotel, this seasonal, open-air restaurant is further testament to the talent of the Arnaud Donckele/Maxime Frédéric duo, here in association with the luxury brand, the monogram of which is emblazoned on everything down to the desserts. The ingredients are chosen with the same rigour as at La Vague d'Or, and presented in delicate, generous dishes (red mullet, bottarga, vegetable rouille with orange wine) enhanced by the robust sauces and jus. The delicate desserts – such as peach and almond ice cream, flavoured with marigold – always exude the same freshness.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. Anthony and Fumiko Maubert have set up shop in the heart of Blois, while awaiting the refurbishment of their establishment on the banks of the Loire. For a long time, Anthony worked alongside Arnaud Donckele (La Vague d'Or), while Fumiko has a twin vocation of nutritionist and pastry chef - her creations stand out for their delicacy and low added sugar. Every morning (“assa” in Japanese), the couple devises the daily menu together, drawing on produce of impeccable quality and numerous Japanese seasonings and ingredients. Sansho berries, wild yuzu, nori seaweed broth, matcha tea and azuki red bean paste are harmoniously combined with ingredients that are painstakingly sourced from local (less than 20 minutes away) producers (among whom Masato Fujisaki, who grows Asian veggies and has been a partner of the restaurant for many a year).

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Poetically named after an order of flowering plants, this tasteful restaurant sports a low-key alpine style. Chef Ludovic Nardozza’s painstakingly crafted cooking showcases his favourite, first-class ingredients: roasted langoustines in marjoram butter, girolles and vin jaune bisque; John Dory lacquered in wild fennel, courgette flowers and grilled cuttlefish; apple like an upside-down pie with local honey and black cardamon… Service with a smile. Pleasant guestrooms make it an ideal basecamp to explore Vercors.

1 Star • Creative. Pascal Barbot and his partner Christophe Rohat took the gamble of setting up their restaurant in premises that are the stuff of legend – here, Joël Robuchon made a name for himself with Jamin! They have turned it into a slick, modern space, without for all that neglecting to pay tribute to the great chef with the "Salon Joël". With his passion for produce undiminished, the chef creates innovative cuisine in which nothing is out of bounds, with a particular predilection for Asian and plant-based dishes. His fans will be ecstatic to note that his famous button mushroom millefeuille with foie gras marinated in verjuice is still on the menu. The talented maître d' can be counted on to put his guests at ease… and to find them that rare pearl among the vintages that fill the superb glass wine cellar.

1 Star • Creative. A stone's throw from the banks of the Seine, this small, quietly unobtrusive restaurant sports a minimalist interior in line with today’s quest for authenticity rather than hot air! Chef Tanaka, formerly of Pierre Gagnaire, is a fan of fresh ingredients and precision. Armed with boundless creativity and imagination, he conjures up enticing dishes that keep us drooling right up to the very end. The vaulted cellar in the basement is home to a wine bar and delivers take-away meals. It is also nice to know that you will always be surprised here, because the single set menu changes regularly.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. From Lamartine to Stendhal and Maupassant, many a French author has waxed lyrical about the atmosphere of Lac du Bourget and the view over Mt Revard. For his part, Chef Alain Perrillat-Mercerot has made the lake and mountains the splendid backdrop against which he serves his delicate, creative cuisine that fervently champions the Savoie terroir. Classically trained, his high-precision preparation of freshwater fish, local cheeses and wild blueberries is second to none – choose between two carefully composed single-choice set menus. The fantastic wine list fetes local grape varieties (among others).

1 Star • Creative. Au 14 Février stands on rue du Bœuf, among the Renaissance mansions, cobbled streets and arcaded galleries in the heart of historical Lyon. A wonderful location in which to sample the surprise menu of chef Tsuyoshi Arai, whose talent and imagination are no longer up for discussion. Born in Kyoto, he belongs to the large family of Japanese chefs who have fallen for France's culinary heritage. He elevates exceptionally fresh ingredients (Miéral poultry, Wagyu beef) by playing on textures, bitterness and acidity: peas, broad beans and snow peas with tamarind, crab and caviar; beetroot tarte tatin with strawberries and foie gras; squab cooked over a cherry wood fire… At every meal, he enchants his clientele with his seasonal symphony. On top of that, the service is extremely obliging.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The stuffed crocodile in the window, a souvenir brought back from Egypt by a Napoleonic soldier, underlines the historic character of this iconic Strasbourg establishment, which boasted 3 stars under chef Émile Jung. Following a top to toe refurbishment that has preserved the spirit of the venue, it shines brightly on the culinary scene of Strasbourg. Chef Romain Brillat, former second of Gilles Goujon and a distant relative of Brillat-Savarin, the famous French gourmet, has achieved a balance between classicism and sophistication. Examples include his original take on scallops (ravioli and cream of the trimmings) with squash, or Dover sole with buddha’s hand, root vegetables and shellfish.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Partners Ludovic Kientz and sommelier Sandie Ling continue to bring life to this country inn standing proud in a large garden. The traditional-style interior is bathed in light. The chef takes obvious pleasure in preparing premium ingredients and vegetables from his own kitchen garden, as well as sauces, to deliver precise cuisine with a touch of classicism: oreiller de la Belle Aurore (pâté en croûte); roasted scallops, black truffle, creamy risotto and Champagne sauce; matured sirloin of Alsace beef, celeriac millefeuille and sauce périgourdine.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. With its decorative half-timbering that is emblematic of this part of Alsace, the inviting mushroom-coloured building catches the eye from afar. Close to the flower-decked banks of the Brunnwasser, it houses this restaurant, where diners can sample the dishes of Alexis Albrecht, who has worked at some top restaurants (Au Crocodile, the Pourcel brothers and Jacques Maximin). The chef's generous seasonal cuisine makes the most of the terroir and local produce, such as fish from the Rhine and game from the Ried… He also draws on an abundance of vegetables and aromatic herbs from the family's kitchen garden, which he and his father cultivate.

1 Star • Creative. In the upper reaches of the village of Steige in the picturesque Villé valley, this old farmhouse inn is the canvas on which chef Yannick Guth expresses his creativity. With a focus on local ingredients (like the herbs and flowers he picks himself), the chef also works with fish from the lake (pike, zander, whitefish). Examples: whitefish in seaweed with a chickpea rouille sauce; cromesquis of pheasant, mountain lovage, parsley and mushrooms… His ingenuity can sometimes surprise, but the striking, consummate result is always succulent. The terrace (for pre-dinner drinks and coffee) overlooks a peaceful rolling landscape.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. You are sure to feel right at home in this charming stone-built inn set in a picturesque little wine-growing village. In a chic and cosy setting, the surprise set menu (only the ingredients are listed) stars seasonal produce, which are presented in carefully crafted dishes. This skilfully prepared and delicious cuisine is classic at first glance, but often scattered with unorthodox notes (Japanese chilli condiment, Maury-chocolate sauce etc). There are a few comfortable guestrooms for overnight stays.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This local institution has proudly retained its MICHELIN star for over 30 years. Ever popular with its loyal clientele, the charming restaurant has more than one string to its bow, with its bright and elegant setting (the dining room overlooks the garden), its consistent modern cuisine with a personal touch, and smiling service from Céline. The chef – her husband, Alain Pavard – thrills diners with top-quality ingredients and precise flavours in dishes such as Mediterranean vegetables, burrata espuma, basil and crispy buckwheat tuile; pollock, fennel confit, rouille and bouillabaisse velouté; strawberry millefeuille, verbena cream and strawberry sorbet.

1 Star • Creative. In a small Burgundy village, close to Dijon and the motorsport racetrack, this rustic inn dripping in charm welcomes diners into a warm interior in which contemporary artwork is interestingly contrasted with stone walls, a coffered ceiling and old bread oven set in a wall. The venue is run by a pair of chefs with complementary talents: Nicolas Isnard and David Le Comte. Both are well travelled and their cuisine, inspired by Asia, the Middle East and even the island of Mauritius, seeks to exalt outstanding produce. The set menu, in the form of a “boarding pass”, invites diners on a tasting adventure, courtesy of creative, generous dishes. An unusual culinary experience rich in discovery.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This duet of talented innkeepers (a chef and a pastry chef with a passion for wine) earned their stripes with stints in iconic establishments such as with Christophe Bacquié at the Castellet and at Le Gabriel and Le Ritz. Here, in their own restaurant, Théo crafts signature cuisine that sings an ode to the produce of nearby Tarn with seasonal fruit and veg that he cherry-picks himself from Lavour Market. Sourdough bread made with heirloom flours, an iced tea of tomato water spiked with garden herbs, delicately seasoned gravlax of ikejime trout, followed by blue lobster from Brittany bursting with flavour. Claire’s version of an Opéra, Brazilian coffee, Pedro Ximénez and tonka bean is quite simply to die for!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In a beautiful stone building nestling in parkland on the edge of the forest, the chef and his wife prepare dishes that delight the palate: delicious lobster and lettuce cooked on the barbecue, spicy nasturtium leaves, blueberries and a potent shell jus; PGI volaille de Licques (poultry) also cooked on the barbecue, mushrooms delicately bound in an anchovy vinaigrette, and poultry jus with a black garlic twist; raspberry, radish and beetroot for dessert. Working only with the most "natural" ingredients possible, chef Nicolas Gautier takes many risks with his off-the-beaten-track pairings, and the gamble pays off. The meal is prepared in front of diners, who are seated at a U-shaped table, in the spirit of a small table d'hôte.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. Formerly the canteen of the local iron ore mine (closed in April 1970), this inn has been the haunt of the same chef for over 40 years. Trained classically, his watchword is simplicity and his cooking is the epitome of straightforward authenticity, albeit with flawless technique and inspired creativity. Examples include calf’s sweetbread flanked by Vire andouille and braised in hay – culinary bliss! This enticing seasonal score is served in two stylishly sleek dining rooms that manage to avoid the starched formality that can be characteristic of such places… What a treat to go down the mine!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. A quintessential French country inn in the heart of the Mercantour National Park. Winter dining is by the fireside beneath timber rafters, while the summer terrace frames a breathtaking view of the surrounding peaks. The creative, veggie-centric score showcases premium local produce, including from the establishment’s own garden. Chef Louis-Philippe Riel makes everything from scratch (cured meat, pasta, bread, ice cream) and exalts the purity of raw ingredients with lashings of love. His carte blanche menu changes daily according to availability: fresh green peas with shavings of artichoke, almond milk and confit egg yolk; ravioles of spinach, saffron-laced beurre blanc; veal sweetbread and gambero rosso, pleurotes and a fish stock and white wine sauce… First-class lineup of natural wines, cheerful service. If you have time, book one of the snug attractive guestrooms with a top-of-the-range spa to relax and wind down in style.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This discreet inn near Aubenas boasts an elegant contemporary setting. The chef prepares cuisine that espouses the zeitgeist, drawing on the terroir and modern trends, with a distinct penchant for small-scale producers. Free-range farm-raised pork, snails, saffron, goat's cheese, wild herbs picked by hand: everything is local. Efficient and cordial service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Some things never go out of fashion… The oldest stone walls of this quintessential Sologne coaching inn with a half-timbered, pink brick façade date back to the 17C. Former patrons include the likes of French stars Mistinguett and Maurice Chevalier. Settle in at your table in this timeless setting of solid oak beams, Gien earthenware and crystal, with a view onto the magnificent grounds planted with century-old trees. The chef cooks classics and dishes that smack of modern inspiration, whether using fish and seafood or meat – he has a penchant for game. Home to some exceptional vintages, the sumptuous wine cellar has surprises in store for the most discerning of palates.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This emblematic Beaujolais establishment, made famous thanks to the talent of chef Chantal Chagny who spent 44 years in the kitchen here, needs no introduction whatsoever! Her successor, Aurélien Merot, is cut from the same cloth courtesy of cuisine that is both generous and delicate. He champions regional produce (zander from the river roasted in its skin, multicoloured carrots from Augustin’s garden and a punchy Beaujolais sauce), with a special focus on jus and sauces. Excellent value for money (the lunchtime menu is a bargain!) plus a fine selection of wines from the region.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. As spirited as the winds of Brittany (where he grew up), Rodolphe Regnauld harbours a great love for the produce of his adopted region. Here he showcases it in a series of meat and fish dishes: Guilvinec langoustine cooked two ways, raspberries, peas, Sturia caviar from Aquitaine; Rossini fillet of Salers beef served with foie gras from the Limagne plains and a rich gravy.

1 Star • Creative. Close to Rennes, on the banks of the River Vilaine, this granite building is worthy of our full attention. Owners Sylvain and Marie-Pierre Guillemot met while working for Alain Passard. Sylvain prides himself on his "instinctive, up-to-the-minute cuisine", drawing on regional produce with a sense of invention and real technical skill. He particularly cherishes his relationships with his producer friends, from whom he sources seaweed, chilli, ginger, poultry and, of course, butter. The elegant and light-filled interior, the terrace overlooking the river, and the lovely service add to the pleasure of this gourmet interlude. Very fine wine list.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative, Modern Cuisine. Tucked away in the heart of the countryside, chef Florent Ladeyn, an ecological champion from the word go, is a standard-bearer of authentic and indulgent Flemish fare that is deeply rooted in the terroir yet creative, instinctive and enticing. In a simply decorated dining room with exposed beams and views of the hilly Monts de Flandre landscape, the chef gives expression to his passion for charcoal cooking, as his guests take in the show. Firmly committed to local produce, he strews his creations with flowers and plants from the region. His Maroilles cheese fries have attained almost legendary status, but his single seasonal carte-blanche menu, which has to be ordered for everyone at the table, has many other surprises in store!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Balzac was a regular guest at the Château de Saché, located right next door to this Auberge housed in a half-timbered building that has retained all its authentic charm behind its ivy-covered façade. Exposed beams, tiled floors, a fireplace and more contemporary tableware: this pair – chef Kevin Gardien and Stéphanie Marques – know how to look after their guests. The spotlight is on local produce from the Loire: poultry from Ingrandes-de-Touraine, trout from a fish farm in Langeais, saffron from Cheillé, cheese from Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine. The chef's cuisine is modern, but not obsessed with fashion, and his dishes are clear and delicious, with lovely sauces such as the one accompanying the Racan pigeon with beetroot in a salt crust, blackcurrant and rose geranium.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. In this small village perched in the foothills of the Vosges, this hotel-restaurant has been welcoming travellers since the start of the last century. The Buecher brothers, who took over the reins of this family business from their parents, preside with cheerful enthusiasm. The delicious and refined cuisine of the elder brother, Sébastien, showcases the best of the terroir in the form of a menu that is always changing. He puts a creative spin on traditional dishes, as exemplified by the veal chop, double ravioli and sauce ravigote with calf's foot. Most of the fruit and vegetables come from their own garden. Front of house, the younger brother Guillaume operates with poise, in a minimalist decor tempered by the warmth of wood panelling. There are pretty guestrooms.

1 Star • Traditional Cuisine. This eminently hospitable inn upholds culinary traditions rich in textbook technique and indulgent, spot-on flavours. Christophe Le Fur, born at Cap Fréhel, is thriving in his homeland as he crafts bold, crisp dishes oozing in generosity. The chef, who cherry-picks his ingredients, demonstrates the full scope of his talents (particularly in the field of sauces, one of the house’s signatures!). Brittany lobster and sweetbread sautéed in butter with creamy morels in Noilly; poultry pie in a tarragon jus; without forgetting the flamboyant crêpe flambée to finish your meal on a high.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. On the road between Bordeaux and Toulouse, in the heart of a tiny picturesque village near Agen, this country inn occupies a centuries-old stone house, whose terrace, shaded by ancient plane trees, faces a Clunisian priory founded in the 11C. A former consort of Michel Trama of Puymirol, chef Benjamin Toursel has forged his own distinctive modern style, scattered with bold, creative notes that frequently surprise the diner: mouth-wateringly juicy red tuna with a wasabi made out of roses, rhubarb and rose geranium; rack of veal, raw and cooked carrots and nasturtium-flavoured béarnaise. A priory devoted to fine dining…

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This contemporary restaurant surrounded by orchards has a bright, welcoming, clean-lined dining area that looks onto the surrounding countryside. Full of verve and creativity, Bastien Gillet's colourful, zesty cuisine is as subtle as it is finely judged, both in terms of the aromas and the textures; his dishes, laden with top-notch farm produce from the region, are rife with flavours. And the detail to seal the deal: the dishes are served in delightful crockery that is handmade locally. The menu is liable to change daily, in accordance with the chef's inspiration. Suffice to say, this restaurant that pushes the boundaries with delicious fare has plenty to recommend it, so why not take a bite?

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. At the Col de la Couillole, a pass in the Mercantour National Park, this former refuge run by Pauline and Christophe Billau is a top destination for foodies. These two serve up a warm welcome and a single set menu that draws inspiration from the mountains and changes with the seasons. Diners can indulge in creamy local mountain nettle cappuccino, superb roasted white asparagus, whether tangy with candied citrus fruit or in a sabayon sauce, or lightly smoked Mediterranean tuna served confit-style and subtly counterbalanced by the herbal notes of oxalis. Dishes such as veal from the Plateau de Longon accompanied by confit shallots and a courgette flower filled with pine nuts and a herb cream are brimming with skilfully mastered flavours, while the cheeses are carefully matured. There's nothing superfluous or artificial about this place! A few prettily decorated guestrooms are up for grabs for overnight stays.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Traditional Cuisine. This inviting 18C coaching inn with its long, flower-decked façade is an authentic and elegant local institution. Chef Laurent Arbeit presides over the kitchen, having honed his skills at Haeberlin and Ducasse. He continues the family tradition by working with Alsace's finest ingredients, such as duck foie gras, Sundgau pink trout, milk-fed veal chop and farm-raised squab. The delicate and harmonious cuisine of this proprietor who is very much in tune with the times is replete with well-balanced flavours. The guestrooms are decorated in Alsace style.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. Situated on the road from Metz to Strasbourg, this pretty little inn – once a farm belonging to the church in Welferding – has been run by the same family since the late 19C. Having taken over from his father who built up the auberge’s gastronomic reputation in the region, Stephan Schneider (fifth generation) is now at the helm here. Guests dine in a large, plush and warmly decorated dining room with old parquet flooring and cabinets laden with gleaming Sarreguemines earthenware. The chef is a staunch champion of tradition who works with local market gardeners (he also has his own kitchen garden) and buys whole animals that he prepares himself, including cured meats. Spacious guestrooms are also available.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. This former 16C presbytery in the heart of a photogenic country village on the road to Mont Saint Michel is home to a restaurant flanked by a cottage garden, which provides chef Thomas Benady with plenty of produce (veggies, fruit, aromatic herbs, flowers…), as well as inspiration for his single set surprise menu. The chef also frequently works with small local producers and independent fishermen. You can expect a vegetable-focused, seafood slant presented and plated in a modern, minimalist manner and above all steeped in the distinctive personality and character of its author. Examples include his work with beetroot or a vegetable sausage stuffed with celery and garden herbs. The chef’s partner, Jessica, elegantly manages the front of house. A few stylish guestrooms also available. Seating is limited so reservations are recommended.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Clinging to the rocks at the entrance to the Vallon des Auffes, Coline Faulquier's new restaurant commands a dramatic view over the Mediterranean, the Château d'If and the Frioul archipelago. In a dining space depicted by soft neutral tones, clean lines and picture windows, the bubbly chef orchestrates a vibrant, inventive and spot-on seafood score. The veggie- and seafood-centric dishes are packed in character, in particular courtesy of knockout sauces, like the amazing red wine bouillabaisse jus. The kitchen ensures freshness by buying direct from local fishermen.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In Gaël Orieux's compact restaurant – seating barely 30 people – the elegant contemporary interior with deceptively sleek lines exudes an unexpected calm. It's a chic and refined place in which to enjoy technically sound modern cuisine: tetragon soup with herbs, frogs' legs and smoked eel; scallops, oyster mushrooms and grape pulp, chestnut broth "espresso" and black truffle; crispy sweetbreads with peanuts, chanterelles with dried apricots and Jura wine. With the courage of his convictions, Gaël Orieux sources his ingredients from the market and only serves fish that are not endangered (black mullet, meagre, pout). The varied and carefully selected wine list offers the opportunity to try something new, all the more of a boon when wines by the glass come from magnums for superior quality.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. It is so popular that you have to book weeks, even months in advance. In a peaceful, airy house opposite the church, Mickaël Clautour and Laura Legeay lovingly craft a seasonal score. The vibe in the dining room is warm and attentive, while the kitchen team finetunes each detail with a focus on taste above all. Chawanmushi-style flan of crab and grapefruit, confit trout with citrus fruit, apples and sweet chestnuts: every dish is a masterpiece of delicate simplicity steeped in heroically wondrous flavour. Even better, it is all at sensible prices.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. After a glittering career in the region, youthful Rémi Genot has returned to his roots in this famous wine-growing village. He pays homage to local producers and showcases fine cuts of meat prepared by his father in the next-door butchers. As comfortable working with vegetables as with fish and meat, he creates meticulous dishes, packed in colour and character. He is also skilled at juxtaposing different textures, in dishes such as tomatoes, fresh smoked goat’s cheese, rose geranium; brill, green peas, girolles, shellfish and melissa jus. Burgundy takes pride of place in the wine cellar and Anna, the chef’s partner, gracefully and seamlessly manages the front of house.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Japanese chef Nobuyuki Akishige, who boasts an impeccable track record (including spells at L'Atelier du Peintre in Colmar, La Vague d'Or in Saint-Tropez and alongside Arnaud Donckele at Le K2 in Courchevel and La Pyramide in Vienne), deftly crafts subtle seasonal cuisine based on top-quality ingredients. A simple bistro interior provides the perfect foil to a legible score whose harmonious flavours result from spot-on cooking, illustrated by white asparagus, sweetcorn, cabbage and sorrel or scallops, spinach and parmesan.

1 Star • Seafood, Modern Cuisine. Outside the town centre of Saint Brieuc, Aux Pesked embarks you on a journey between land and sea. In an uncluttered interior bathed in light, this eatery celebrates seafood with its briny and veggie-focused cuisine. Local produce and seasonal ingredients are cherry-picked by the veteran chef, who is on first name basis with each market gardener and fisherman. On the menu: tartare of scallops enhanced by fresh herbs, raviole of tender juicy crabmeat in a fragrant stock or a festival of shellfish in a shellfish and seaweed butter jus. Now add an intelligently curated wine list (organic, biodynamic, Demeter) and Sophie Aumont’s slick, seamless service and you have the best of town and country with the bonus of a fantastic view over the lush green banks of the Gouët River.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. After a tour of Saint Philibert Abbey, take a break at this enchanting address. Bare stone walls and large untreated solid oak tables set the scene indoors, flooded in light thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows. The peaceful garden and the welcome from the chef’s wife are also outstanding. Chef Jean-Michel is an enthusiast, capable of changing his gourmet offering from one table to another in the same evening. His approach is entirely instinctive. His food is thus rich in emotion and establishes a natural complicity with the region, particularly through the use of first-rate local fruit, vegetables and other produce, whilst compromising nothing in terms of high-precision cooking. His weekday lunchtime market menu is a bargain!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. A brisk avel vor ("sea breeze" in Breton) depicts this seaside eatery. Camille Lacome and Agathe Richou craft flavoursome recipes rooted in the region (flawlessly fresh seafood, buckwheat, Guémené andouille, gwell, fermented milk) dotted with subtle Mediterranean accents (olive oil, thyme, tomato water). Spot-on, aromatic dishes served in a spacious modern setting.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. A ‘bacôve’ is a large flat-bottomed boat used by the vegetable growers of the marshes of St Omer to transport their crops. It is emblematic of Camille Delcroix’ inspiration (Top Chef 2018 winner) and of his soothing, nature-inspired restaurant. He crafts razor-sharp menus, inspired by first-rate locally sourced produce in a surf ‘n turf vein. The chef’s preoccupation with presentation shines through, both in the choice of tableware as in the colours and graphics of each plate. Finally, Carla and her smiling team bend over backwards to make you feel at home.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. "Here, the bouillabaisse cosies up to the aioli and the pissaladière (tart with onions, olives and anchovies) hobnobs with the socca (chickpea flatbread), hot from the charcoal-fired oven": Julia Sedefdjian is happy and thriving. Her colourful, fragrant cuisine is an ode to the Mediterranean: roast and stewed venison, puntarelle and gnocchi or Kintoa pork, bao of BBQ pork belly, stuffed cabbage and jus… Julia painstakingly selects and creatively blends premium produce, without forgetting her Nice heritage. The "Bouillabaieta", a superb take on bouillabaisse, is a must and your tastebuds will be in seventh heaven as you embrace her surprise menu, Baieta (which means "kiss" in the Nice dialect)!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Behind wrought-iron railings, this handsome establishment ushers diners into a tastefully understated interior (white walls, parquet floors, wooden chairs and tables) and an open-plan kitchen helmed by Michel Marini. The chef crafts a flavoursome, legible, delicate score with a Mediterranean and Provençal spin and invariably dotted with herbs that he picks himself. Everything is steeped in crisp, expressive flavours and the desserts are low on sugar yet impossibly addictive!

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. Built in 1892, this private mansion resembles a small château surrounded by greenery in the very heart of Paris. It became a hotel in the early 1990s, but it wasn't until 2013 that its restaurant opened to non-residents and it is very probably one of the most exclusive establishments of the French capital! The high-flying score, which focuses on vegetables and seafood, is proud to serve produce from the establishment’s own vegetable garden, capable of supplying over 250 varieties of fruit, veg and herbs. This sustainable farming ethos is elegantly and steadfastly championed by the knowledgeable front-of-house team. The wine list is similarly motivated and offers a fine choice of unexpected tipples.

1 Star • Mediterranean Cuisine. For a long time, chef Bessem Ben Abdallah worked in the shadow of great chefs (eg Michel Del Burgo, Marc Meneau and Pierre Gagnaire). In this town house with its terrace shaded by plane trees and a fountain, he gets to give full rein to his talent. He brings a deft touch to a delicate Mediterranean brand of cuisine that is personal to him, as in his catch of the day, artichoke purée, spinach with parmesan, courgettes, green beans, a yuzu-kombava broth, tagetes and lovage. He is assisted by a talented pastry chef. It's worth noting that the chef serves his own selection of Tunisian single-estate olive oil and raises chickens so as to have access to fresh, quality eggs! Two seasonal surprise menus; closed at lunchtimes in summer.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The tiny Basque village of Guéthary is the HQ of one part of the Ibarboure family. In this characteristic 1930’s Basque house, formerly a hotel, Martin and his son David are in the kitchen, while Marie-Claude, David’s mum, warmly upholds Basque traditions of hospitality and Camille seamlessly manages the charming front of house. It is the quintessence of a family business, although it must be said that David did skip the roost for a while, spending time with Pierre Gagnaire in Hong Kong. Father and son craft masterful dishes depicted by suave seasonings, a subtle play on transparency and contrast and perfectly ripe produce, most of which is local. Natural, simple flavours before all else.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. A restaurant owes so much to its proprietors… and in this rustic and appealingly traditional Provençal house, which in the 1920s was the home of the great-grandmother of the Bruno family, their generous spirit very much makes its presence felt! Having been handed the torch by their father Clément (renowned for his love of truffles), the two brothers – Benjamin in the kitchen and Samuel in the dining room – continue to fly the flag of tradition laced with just the right amount of modernity. They still serve their single truffle-based set menu (the type of truffles changes with the season), but vegetables grown in the new 4 000m2 biodynamic vegetable garden now take pride of place. The olive oil is made in-house, using the eight varieties of olives harvested from the trees in the grounds. Cheerful and attentive service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this historic building on the banks of the Saône, Matthieu Girardon conjures up his own personal, uninhibited and highly accomplished take on modern cuisine. Examples include crisp green asparagus paired with wild garlic, strawberries, Timut pepper and a silky asparagus sabayon. Jus and sauces play a major role in many dishes, without forgetting delicate, spot-on desserts, illustrated by rhubarb, poached and sorbet, whipped vanilla Fontainebleau cream and crunchy yoghurt. The seasons and market availability dictate the contents of the blind tasting menu, which can be adjusted to suit your budget, appetite and choice of wine pairings –the wine cellar is something of a benchmark for its Burgundies…

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Bang in the heart of a rural village on the Plaine des Vosges, not far from the spa towns, this hotel-restaurant has been run by the same family since 1919. Hungry travellers happily take a seat in the lovely dining rooms, one of which, with an exposed timber ceiling, was once the village washhouse. Chef Maye Cissoko confidently finetunes a seasonal score, in which premium ingredients are allowed to shout their name, e.g.: scallops, served raw and as quenelles, or veal smoked in hay with coffee-laced Jerusalem artichoke and a gutsy gravy.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This 1920s Art deco building has a modern extension replete with curving floral scrolls and a rotunda dining space decked in soft, natural materials echoing organic shapes. The couple at the helm, Stéphan Paroche and Justine Viano (formerly La Table de Castigno), crafts a modern programme in the form of several surprise menus, including vegetarian options. Indeed, it is their veggie-centric compositions – such as the appetisers or the seafood starter – that best exemplify the couple’s high-flying talent. The excellent wine list, featuring wines from Languedoc and Roussillon as well as the Rhône, is well worth a gander.

1 Star • Creative. A chic, cosy bistro vibe reigns in the restaurant of Grenoble-born chef, Fabien Beaufour, who has stints in some of the finest Michelin-starred restaurants in France (Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence and Patrick Henriroux in Vienne), as well as New York and London, under his belt. So, it's hardly surprising that his cooking is unorthodox and globe-trotting. Big-boned, contrasting flavours and spot-on cooking and seasonings. Signature dishes include a delicious miso-glazed black cod, slow-cooked on a robatayaki, crispy sweetbread and a passion fruit Grenobloise sauce or a trompe l’œil Piedmont hazelnut with button mushroom-flavoured ice cream…

1 Star • Japanese. Unique in France, Chakaiseki Akiyoshi is the first restaurant devoted to the traditional Japanese tea ceremony. Cha-kaiseki actually refers to the meal that is served with this beverage, while Yuichiro Akiyoshi is the chef’s name. Tucked away behind a suitably low-profile wooden façade, the omakase might include amberjack with ponzu jelly, tempura with grey shrimp bouillon, seabream marinated in a mix of sake, mirin and soy sauce and grilled over charcoal, sushi of mackerel, grilled salmon rice, miso soup with artichoke. Recipes that allow the super-fresh ingredients to sing, prepared in front of the client, assisted by his kimono-clad spouse. Each dish is an exquisite blend of colour and flavour, of visual artistry and zen spirituality. An exclusive, timeless experience in an interior inspired by authentic Japanese teahouses (seats only 16).

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This chalet in the upper reaches of the village has been converted into an intimate restaurant by young couple Thomas and Estelle Flachaire, who met while working at the renowned Maison Troisgros in Ouches. The chef boasts a near-perfect CV and his experience makes itself felt in a series of healthy, light dishes crafted from seasonal, often locally sourced ingredients. Served in the form of a single set menu with poetically named courses, his cuisine embraces smoky, fruity and zesty flavours, in tune with the zeitgeist. A warm welcome awaits.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Carole and Pascal Bastian welcome you to this imposing 18C coach house, which stylishly pairs Alsace heritage with sharp-edged class. Noble produce takes the limelight in recipes, poised between pure-bred classicism and inspired creativity, crafted by a chef who kicked off his career here, under the auspices of Fernand Mischler. His signature dishes include stuffed morel mushrooms glazed a in meat reducation, locally sourced venison and the Paris-Lembach dessert. Fans of the region will be delighted by the cosy guestrooms.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. Set in a Provençal vineyard, this restaurant promises a unique experience in which gastronomy meets contemporary art. In a sleek, designer setting, the restaurant overlooks the estate's organic vineyards, where Daniel Buren's flags dance in the wind. The seasonal cuisine, with local produce at its heart, reflects the restaurant's ecological commitments: organic vegetable garden, house-made ricotta, beeswax from the hives. The dishes, such as bluefin tuna with courgette flowers, or rhubarb and raspberry dessert, are light, fragrant and delicious. With its guestrooms, art centre and remarkable gardens, this estate is an ode to nature, culture and excellent taste.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Once a village café, then a family inn, it is now a gourmet table with an enviable reputation in the Moselle “lake district”. This illustrious restaurant is in the capable hands of Bruno Poiré, Michèle’s son, who after learning the ropes in the family business as a teenager, honed his skills with Georges Blanc at Vonnas and Antoine Westermann at the Buerehiesel. He prepares precise, generous dishes in tune with the zeitgeist that reveal a soft spot for Mediterranean recipes. A fine dining experience in a contemporary setting, enhanced by attentive service.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine, Creative. Clément and Flora are perpetually rejuvenating Choko Ona, with touches such as the kitchen garden of herbs and aromatic flowers that can be admired from the tables and tasted on your plate. And then of course there is the emblematic local chilli pepper – piment d'Espelette. With this wealth of resources at his fingertips, the chef cooks up delicate, subtle, contemporary cuisine, sourcing everything as locally as possible: white asparagus gently grilled on the barbecue with ewe's milk Tomme; seared langoustine in a saffron broth; braised confit foie gras accompanied by an Arto Gorria corn foam (a Basque variety). An all-round delicious meal.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Set in its own grounds, this large 1920s property is inspired by the Italian Renaissance: hence the frieze on the façade depicting mythological scenes and the marble and mosaics. The elegant colonnaded dining room, meanwhile, sports a decor with a contemporary feel, with embedded lighting, comfortable armchairs and refined tableware. Two brothers manage this family business: sommelier Frédéric Roux and chef Sylvain Roux, whose delightful dishes showcase the finest ingredients: Breton lobster, black garlic madeleine and a fermented carrot jus; loin of local veal roasted with thyme blossom; frosted and poached apricot, rosemary financier and black olive. On the restaurant floor, Frédéric is on hand to give judicious recommendations from a magnificent wine list.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the heart of the Lunéville countryside, this romantic, classical château is nestled in wooded grounds. You pass through a dignified series of rooms that have lost none of their period cachet: wainscoting, parquet floors and open fireplaces, into the dining room overlooking the grounds. A few subtle baroque and contemporary touches brighten up this glamorous interior, providing the perfect foil to the chef's cuisine – traditional with modern touches. Previously a pastry chef, the talented and discreet Cyril Leclerc (who hails from Lorraine) loves premium produce. He treats it with respect – you only have to look at the accuracy of his cooking and flavours. The wine list, curated by his expert wife, who manages the restaurant floor, doesn't disappoint.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this 16C château, where period terracotta floor tiles meet stone fireplaces, chef Julien Laval – who previously worked at Restaurant Serge Vieira in Chaudes-Aigues and was a finalist in the French Dessert Championship – is truly coming into his own. His indulgent modern dishes combine top-notch ingredients with a judicious use of international details, and are meticulously presented – take, for example, the foie gras terrine topped with a green tea and hibiscus jelly, served with lychee chutney in kumquat vinegar, or the Dombes duckling prepared two ways: cooked whole and pastilla, accompanied by turnip, lime and cooking juices.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Château de Courban is an elegant 19C mansion with a burnt sienna-coloured façade, looking out over its grounds. Preceded by a plush lounge with a crackling fireplace, the restaurant is housed in the property's converted barn, which boasts a beamed ceiling in the regional style, chandeliers and mirrors. In the manner of a skilled craftsman, the chef shapes his raw materials – excellent ingredients – into delicate seasonal dishes, the leitmotif of which is flavour: tomato confit and its three condiments; line-caught cod with sauce bonne femme; Racan pigeon, pigeon-foie gras sausage, cabbage and truffle jus. The meal is rounded off in fine style with pared-back desserts that are low in sugar. The wine list has a particularly good selection of champagnes and Burgundy labels.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. What a splendid spot! The River Dordogne meanders at the foot of this superb château set in a formal garden and grounds. The panoramic view from the terrace will take your breath away. The dining room is similarly stunning: marble floors, wall hangings, coffered ceiling and carved wooden fireplace. Stéphane Andrieux has been running the show for almost 25 years, rolling out a polished culinary lineup. Examples include roast Quercy lamb (fillet and rack), flanked with carrot tortellini and soy seasoning or a delicate shortbread of strawberry and meadowsweet, signed Marc Jean, house pastry chef since 1995.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Upstream from Amboise, on the south bank of the Loire, this medieval castle with two massive towers, remodelled during the Renaissance, cannot fail but catch the eye. The edifice peacefully presides over vast formal grounds and staunchly upholds the Loire’s gracious art de vivre. The orangery, part of which is built into the rocky hillside, is the epitome of elegant, and on sunny days it is a treat to sit on the pleasant terrace overlooking the gardens. Chef Arnaud Philippon's cuisine flirts with the zeitgeist: pressed young goat and foie gras, pied bleu mushrooms, wild garlic and mango and cocoa paste; razor clams, white asparagus and Vouvray wine with primrose roots; hot soufflé with Touraine blackcurrants. Delicate craftsmanship, balanced flavours, locally sourced ingredients: the good life at its best.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This 18C manor house with a pink façade and Italianate columns overlooking the Saône valley is aptly named! With his wife, a sommelier and the daughter of winegrowers, Romuald Fassenet has turned this Classical edifice into a pared-back designer establishment with a handful of charming guestrooms providing overnight accommodation near Dole. His bold, appetising food reveals his genuine passion for the Jura terroir (in fact, he was sous-chef to chef Jean-Paul Jeunet) and is based on a sound mastery of technical skills. He makes superb sauces with Jura vin jaune; AOC poularde de Bresse, morels, Château-Chalon sauce is one of his classics.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this magical setting, the Mediterranean Sea reveals itself in all its splendour from the terrace, which feels as if it is suspended between sky and earth. Book early to secure the best spots! But the view does not eclipse the cuisine of Justin Schmitt. No stranger to prestigious kitchens, this veteran chef is a dab hand at cooking up precise modern cuisine with plenty of personality eg green asparagus from Provence with fresh goat's cheese ice cream and elderflower, and pearlescent cod wrapped in seaweed. The desserts are on a par – think velvety matcha rice pudding and tarragon sorbet.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. The contemporary interior of the recently refurbished dining room makes for a striking contrast with the 17C Burgundy-stone building in which it is located. Chef Angelo Ferrigno crafts subtly creative modern food and is committed to sourcing his ingredients locally, in fact exclusively within a 200km radius. He rustles up natural dishes that channel the zeitgeist and unvarnished Scandinavian influences, and presents them with artfully composed plating that is truly exquisite. It's a masterclass in indulgence, and that includes the desserts. Polished service and insightful tips from the sommelier add a final flourish to the experience. Booking is highly recommended.

1 Star • Creative. The name of this restaurant pays homage to American rapper Mac Miller, as well as to the circle of friends and co-workers running the show here! Chef Bastian Ruga has perfected his concept. Playing out to a soundtrack of American rap music, his youthful, no-holds-barred cuisine charts a course between bold creativity, North African and Asian influences, and a healthy dose of affection for traditional cuisine – this is Lyon, after all! The original food-and-drink pairings are an integral part of the experience, encompassing beer, herbal teas and a natural wine list. A shining example would be the wonderfully pearlescent cod with black garlic hollandaise sauce, served with a comforting ginger brandade. The style of service is professional and trendy.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This elegant winegrower's manor house with a plush feel and bags of character is set in a leafy garden where tables are laid out in summer... It's the perfect setting in which to sample Jordan Billan's cuisine, which is rooted in the terroir of Burgundy and showcases the carefully-chosen suppliers. The chef's taste for tradition – think matured Charolais beef, bone marrow and a mustard and tarragon jus – does not prevent him from dreaming up more creative dishes with international influences, such as sole cooked on the bone with shellfish, kasha risotto, seaweed and nashi. Guests will also appreciate the timeless charm of the classically styled guestrooms.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Having fallen in love with Saint-Tropez, French author Colette bought a small house next to Hotel Sezz, the restaurant of which is now named after her. Chef Philippe Colinet deploys his sure-handed technique to craft stripped-back, plant-forward dishes that showcase vegetables and Provençal flavours – tuck in (dinnertime only) in the bright dining area with minimalist decor in keeping with the hotel, or on the large terrace overlooking the pool.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. A Canadian couple, Noam Gedalof and Etheliya Hananova, run this fine Parisian restaurant. The chef draws his inspiration from Gallic traditions, to which he adds a modern spin. His mission is to highlight seasonal ingredients with the utmost care, tailoring the single set menu to the produce of the moment. The flavoursome results are to be sampled in a natty modern interior with vivid blue walls hung with paintings by contemporary artists. The cordial front-of-house team is directed by Hananova, who also welcomes diners in a manner befitting the Canadian reputation for warm hospitality!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The contrasts come thick and fast at this restaurant, starting with the decor, which sees the original elegance of the location set off by more contemporary details. "Contraste" is also the name of a famous champagne vintage from Anselme Selosse – featured, among others, on the extensive wine list. This is a place where you can savour meticulous, up-to-date, flavoursome cuisine based on the finest seasonal produce and presented in a number of tasting menus, each comprising several courses.

1 Star • Fusion. The seasoned couple of Yuichiro (chef) and Mika Shimatani (pastry chef) decided that they couldn’t choose between the Mediterranean and Japan. In a dinky eatery, bang in the middle of a pedestrian street, they take you on a gourmet cruise from the land of the Rising Sun to the Mediterranean. Exquisitely fresh seafood and vegetables play a central role in a culinary score that bears the Japanese hallmark of high precision cooking, immaculate plating and delicate seasonings. This delicacy also encompasses Mika’s gracious table service. Open lunchtime only (take away meals can be ordered on Saturday evenings only).

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Between Corrèze and Lot, this charming 19C manor house has been completely renovated and now sports an airy, stylish dining room. The ceramic apples hanging from the ceiling evoke the restaurant’s nearby orchard and vegetable garden. Gifted, youthful chef Oscar Garcia (stints at Franck Putelat in Carcassonne and La Table d'Uzès) crafts seasonal dishes with a touch of creativity, using produce sourced from within a 100km radius: trout with beetroot, verbena and blueberries; Lot duck, chicory and blackcurrant pepper jus; hazelnut fougasse with a grape and tomato dessert. Five cosy guestrooms. Simpler lunchtime menu.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Modernity meets conviviality at this gourmet getaway nestled in the Lann Roz hotel in Carnac. The brightly decorated restaurant exudes elegance with its carefully laid tables, shelves filled with cookery books, and contemporary touches. Having trained at Le Bristol and at Taillevent, chef Stéphane Cosnier elevates Breton produce with creativity and precision, while also embracing exotic flavours. Open ravioli with langoustines and artichokes in barigoule, line-caught red mullet with shellfish and green curry, or a delicate bourdaloue tart given a modern twist with strawberries: each plate tells its own delicious story.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. This aptly named establishment is supplied by a market gardener who grows over 300 varieties of vegetables, fruit and herbs. Chef Arnaud Billard, a native of Maubeuge, is now at home on the left bank of the Loire on the road to Bourges. His tasty, spot-on market cuisine is clearly veggie focused, thanks to inspired, yet subtle associations together with an underlying fondness for citrus fruits. Dotted with Asian notes, the score also demonstrates the chef’s love of seafood. Examples include scallops on a bed of leeks, paired with a delicious yuzu kosho sauce, which is a paste made out of chili and zest of green yuzu.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This restaurant in the heart of the picturesque hilltop village of Ventabren is certainly one of the most elegant in the region. The interior design is strikingly modern: Scandinavian furnishings, angled mirrors on the ceiling and, of course, the superb panoramic view over the Étang de Berre and the valley of the River Arc. Under the direction of Toulon-born chef Dan Bessoudo, the creativity also extends to the fresh, colourful cuisine, which is full of contrasts and is made with carefully selected local produce.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. Chef Manon Fleury notched up a number of experiences in prestigious kitchens (with chefs such as William Ledeuil, Pascal Barbot and Alexandre Couillon) and short-term chef residencies before opening her own restaurant. Her culinary philosophy, based on a respect for nature and human dignity, a championing of short supply chains (sourcing carefully and locally) and a zero-waste policy, stems from a genuine passion for sustainable fine dining. Dishes are primarily plant-based (fruit and vegetables feature in equal measure), with animal protein used sparingly. Her refined cooking style reveals all the aromatic subtleties and complexities of grains in particular (she has written a book on the subject) but also of fruits, in a subtle exploration of their sweet and sour flavours. A decor of waxed concrete floors, velvet banquette, light oak dining chairs. Booking essential.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. The Scandi-inspired decor hints at the culinary ethos: creativity, extractions, fermentations, plants to the fore, a concern for animal welfare, a natural wine list and haikus instead of names of dishes. The textbook-perfect technique features high-precision cooking, big-boned sauces and jus, and bold combinations that never fail to hit the spot. One fully vegetarian menu available.

1 Star • Seafood. The iconic establishment of Jacques Le Divellec (1983-2013) is now the HQ of Mathieu Pacaud. The culinary theme continues to demonstrate a seafaring slant as the menu ebbs and flows with the tides, paying tribute to top-of-the-range seafood: sole meunière from small boats, aïoli of cod and seasonal veg, langoustines grilled in tarragon. This traditional, forthright and wonderfully legible score is served in a stylish interior.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Moored on the Right Bank, opposite the Eiffel Tower, this lavish Art deco yacht, complete with wainscoting and thick carpets, extends a gracious welcome. Embark on an indulgent gourmet cruise with an outstanding chef, Frédéric Anton, at the helm! The chef of the iconic Pré Catalan reproduces some of his emblematic dishes here to the delight of the Don Juan’s passengers: curry-scented crab, raviole of langoustine, warm chocolate soufflé...

1 Star • Classic Cuisine, French. This luxurious establishment in the Airelles hotel is steeped in history and inextricably linked to the Palace of Versailles. It combines theatrical staging – with diners being greeted by a valet, and staff in period costume – and cuisine tailored to the occasion. Devised by Alain Ducasse, the menu comprises dishes made with premium produce that reflect the great man's commitment to naturalité. Entrusted to chef Stéphane Duchiron, the food is a masterclass in technical skill, with everything expertly cooked and seasoned, and high-quality sauces and jus bringing out the forthright, distinctive flavours of the ingredients.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Picture a sprawling estate (almost 2,500 acres) of woodland, forest, meadows, farmsteads and ponds and now add a 13C castle equipped with all the modern comforts one would expect from a luxury establishment. The former stables have been converted into a dining room that adroitly blends antique and trendy details. The estate’s homegrown produce and aromatic fresh herbs feature prominently on the menu, as kitchen garden recipes vie for pride of place with confidently curated textbook classics. The terrace is heavenly in fine weather.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This eatery blends the talents of Édouard, a chef whose CV boasts stints at Quai d’Orsay, Philippe Rochat and Lameloise, and Émilie, a talented pastry chef who adds the final flourish to the fixed set menu. In a swish interior of midnight blue walls, carpets and Art Deco-ish light fixtures, you will sample a score rich in premium produce that is loaded in personality, yet subtly delicate: diver scallops, Jerusalem artichoke and truffles; line-caught seabass, a medley of pumpkin and lemon thyme-flavoured hollandaise sauce… Just the ticket for a gourmet halt on the wine road.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Frank Renimel and his wife have transformed a former farmstead into a gourmet loft decked in wood and stone, whose floor to ceiling windows embrace the rolling countryside. Perfectly in tune with the seasons, the chef changes his menu monthly, blending local, rustic fare with noble ingredients such as caviar, truffles or cèpes. The diner is often bowled over by Renimel’s craftsmanship, such are the emotions created by each bite, which is the case with the chef’s version of cassoulet, a firm fixture on the menu. To pleasantly prolong your stay, five exquisitely appointed guestrooms add the final flourish to a gourmet getaway, where the accent is on good taste.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine, Creative. Chef Sylvain Joffre promises and delivers fresh, subtle, 100% natural food. This authentic cook-gardener-gatherer makes the most of the herbs and vegetables from his own garden and from painstakingly sourced local producers. Sylvain is conscientious, serious and the antithesis of showy. He aims to serve first-rate food at prices that make sense, crafting each ingredient sincerely and truthfully, adding the occasional flourish by way of jus, coulis, plants and flowers… The tasteful interior is low-key with the bonus of alfresco dining shaded by parasols. Highly committed to the environment, the chef has opened a shop next door that sells pastries, brioche and bread made with organic flour.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In keeping with its previous vocation as a joiner's workshop, this place has wood as the main element in the decor, and the Scandinavian-style minimalism extends to the dishes, which are vegetable-forward and local. From the dining area, which has been embellished with a handful of contemporary features, you can see the young, efficient and committed brigade hard at work in the open kitchens laid out behind a counter. The set menus may sport rather enigmatic names (translating as "plant-based beef and carrots", "barbecue in the vegetable garden", "Alsace cruise" or "herby freshness") but the chef's dishes are clearly structured, creative and strictly seasonal. Shining examples include the kohlrabi, crunchy green vegetables and Gironde caviar; sweetbreads and hazelnut butter; the Alsace red berries topped with Breton vanilla. A place that has character; food that is packed with personality.

1 Star • Creative. Set in a stunning estate complete with a golf course and spa, this former hunting lodge has been turned into a hotel and fine dining restaurant. The vaulted dining area with white tablecloths and an understated contemporary decor looks out onto the green. Originally from the Cévennes, Clément Vergeat (formerly at Guy Savoy and Alliance in Paris, Kokkeriet in Copenhagen) has devised a surprise menu that combines produce from Southern Europe with Northern European techniques: Camargue oysters with dried duck; smoked prawn tartare smørbrød style; fermented strawberries and matured lamb. Marine Mateos, an experienced pastry chef and the chef's partner, gracefully handles the desserts and front-of-house service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. This place is run by Takayuki Honjo, a Japanese chef who is a fan of French culture and cuisine. Having trained in prestigious establishments (Astrance in Paris, Quintessence in Tokyo, Mugaritz in the Basque Country), he has designed his restaurant down to the smallest detail: a white, pared-down – almost monastic – space, in which the modern furniture is not there to attract attention. In this context, the meal resembles a kind of ceremony. Foie gras and sea urchins, or pigeon and cocoa: the pairings are striking and the flavours mingle intimately. The harmony of his subtle creations recalls this talented young man's Japanese heritage.

1 Star • Creative. Auguste Escoffier, first head chef at the Ritz and partner of César Ritz, who founded the luxury hotel on Place Vendôme in 1898, was responsible for raising cuisine to the rank of symbol of French art de vivre. In an interior characterised by suitably low-key opulence, featuring a crystal-leaf ceiling lamp that depicts an imaginary herbarium, Eugénie Béziat now orchestrates the Ritz’ culinary score. From her glazed kitchen, the chef skilfully blends memories of her African childhood with Mediterranean influences gleaned over her culinary career. The result is both surprising and convincing, thanks to dishes that sensitively combine smoky, tangy and roasted notes. Two dazzling signatures are grilled oyster in paracress and brousse cheese and grilled lobster with a ballotine of spinach and manioc, seasoned with bissap and crushed raspberries.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Nicolas Aubry, previously Christophe Hay's executive chef, has now taken over the reins of his mentor's restaurant. The decor has not been changed and it is a pleasure to be back in this modern space with a view into the kitchen. Organised into single set menus that take their cue from the seasons and from produce sourced in the Loire region, the finely crafted dishes are expressions of his delicate cuisine, which may be subtle but has bags of personality.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Chef Kevin de Porre (previously at Contraste in Paris) has returned home with a desire to pay homage to his native land – an intention clearly stated by the name of his restaurant, a reference to the regional fario trout. Supported by an enthusiastic and close-knit team, this modern and talented chef demonstrates his know-how in a surprise menu that gives pride of place to seafood and vegetables, firmly rejecting anything that is not locally sourced – a policy that includes chocolate and coffee. In an interior redesigned with the help of local artisans (for the ironwork, ceramics and cutlery), the bold dishes are intensely flavoured and masterfully executed, with subtle seasonings right from the off, in the form of cleverly designed, indulgent amuse-bouches.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The luxurious Terre Blanche estate is home to this restaurant that boasts an exclusive, plush, almost timeless feel and a terrace overlooking the countryside that is exquisite at sunset. Chef Quentin André, former second chef, shines the spotlight on the Var region by way of delicately crafted cuisine embodied by outstanding ingredients: baby veg from Tourves, line-caught fish from St Raphaël, Vidauban poultry, cheese from the Var, without forgetting fresh herbs from the cottage garden. This mouth-watering score is embodied by swordfish jazzed up by vibrant jus of carrots, rum and Hyères curcuma. The vegetarian menu reveals the same virtuoso talent and attention to detail.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine, Creative. FIEF is a play on words, meaning Fait Ici En France (Made Here In France) and HQ, because its chef, Victor Mercier, who rose to fame in the French Top Chef TV show in 2018, ONLY uses 100% French produce. Sichuan pepper from Gers, Soustons peanuts, Poitou pigeon, Brittany fish, Montpellier yuzu, French satay, Burgundy miso, even the ice cream is flavoured with sweet clover instead of vanilla. On the basis of this culinary ethos, the virtuoso chef flawlessly crafts flavoursome dishes flanked by gutsy sauces rich in character and personality. Take a seat at the counter to enjoy the experience close up and chat with the chef and his team who explain the ins and outs of each dish in real time for a truly fascinating insight into the culinary mindset of Victor and his talented troupe.

1 Star • Italian, Mediterranean Cuisine. Among the traditional shopfronts, this elegant façade stands out from the crowd on Bonifacio harbour. On the first floor, this superb designer space mimicking the shape of the inverted hull of a ship, with a subtle maritime-inspired decor, features a large window (finestra in Italian) overlooking the port. Chef Italo Bassi, who presides also over the kitchens of his restaurant in Sardinia, has devised a menu that allies the cuisines of Italy and Corsica. The mainly local ingredients are handpicked in these masterfully prepared dishes – the double ravioli with two fillings, burrata, guinea fowl casserole and its reduction, light cream of parmesan and fresh thyme is a particularly appetising signature dish!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. At this restaurant that is firmly rooted in the zeitgeist, chef Sylvain Sendra pursues his fascinating culinary process with his usual enthusiasm and flair. He whips up modern dishes that draw inspiration from all over the world, featuring deceptively spontaneous plating and blue-ribbon ingredients, most notably the very exclusive vegetables from the kitchen garden of Asafumi Yamashita (market gardener in Yvelines in the Greater Paris area). Rather than bowl us over with flashy technique, the chef seeks to lay the emphasis squarely on flavours and delivering on the menu's promises. For a restaurant of this size, the quality of the wine list is striking: connoisseurs might like to plump for one of the rare bottles from the selection.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. Saint Lazare Priory is located in the heart of Fontevraud Abbey, one of Europe’s largest monastic complexes. The former’s cloisters have been morphed into a restaurant by designer Patrick Jouin and architect Sanjit Manku, who have staged a marriage between monastic minimalism and untreated materials to set the scene for Thibaut Ruggeri’s cooking. The latter, who hails from Megève and who won the Bocuse d’Or 2013, learnt the trade with iconic culinary names from Michel Guérard to Georges Blanc. A champion of good food and biodynamic farming, local produce takes pride of place (Racan poultry, Anjou pigeon) in a menu that keeps pace with his garden’s production and the moon.

1 Star • Creative. This greenhouse with timber arches devoted to the goddess Freia is perched on top of a contemporary building. It is the perfect place to grow a garden of aromatic herbs and berries and to admire the panoramic view of Nantes. After the success of Vacarme, Sarah Mainguy crafts poetic and creative cuisine, mainly plant based and scattered with Scandinavian and Asian touches. Each dish is a treasure trove of brainwaves and delicious sauces – cases in point being the white asparagus with a vegetable seaweed XO sauce, or periwinkles with crisp green peas, topped with a glazed gwell snow.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Chef Grégory Marchand learned the trade in some of the English-speaking world's top kitchens (including Gramercy Tavern in New York, Jamie Oliver's Fifteen in London, Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong). In his compact premises in the neighbourhood of Le Sentier, the space (think exposed brick, beams and stonework) quickly fills to capacity with fans of cuisine that is perfectly in tune with today's international inclinations while remaining rooted in meticulous sourcing (from the ceramic plates to the fruit and vegetables from Terroirs d'Avenir or La Ferme de l'Envol).

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. Frédéric and Irene Molina have relocated their fine dining offering to a new spot in the Vallée du Brevon, less than 2km from their restaurant Le Moulin de Léré. Looking out onto the peaks of Les Trois Becs and the mysterious Forêt Ivre with its slanting fir trees, this old farmhouse with its two-hundred-year-old timber frame has a refined, minimalist decor of premium materials, custom-made pale wood furnishings, contemporary lighting and local ceramic tableware. The spacious glass-walled dining area is on the upper floor and affords views of the surrounding countryside and into the open kitchen. The poetic, traditional cuisine, inspired by the "52 seasons", showcases wild plants, fruit, vegetables, lake fish, game and poultry with exceptional respect for local produce sourced within a 30km radius. Organic and biodynamic wine cellar. Guestrooms available to extend your stay.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Frédéric Simonin learned the ropes in top restaurants and alongside great chefs, from Ledoyen to Le Meurice and Joël Robuchon, before becoming Meilleur Ouvrier de France himself in 2019. Out went the black and white and geometric lines, as he set about creating a venue of his very own, with hardwood floors, white walls and bevelled mirrors. This "Parisian apartment" (in his words) is the perfect foil for his precise, delicate and perfectly balanced cuisine – special mention for his reductions and sauces. There are multi-course tasting menus with a few inventive touches, a great lunch menu and a nice selection of wines by the glass.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine, Creative. This manor house overlooking the Seine is the HQ of David Goerne, a German-born chef in love with French cuisine. He unfussily invites guests to take a seat at the ‘table d’hôte’ in his vintage kitchen, whose walls gleam with copper utensils. In fine weather, meals are served on the panoramic terrace gazing down on the River Seine and Brotonne bridge. David enjoys improvising in front of diners, subtly and creatively incorporating herbs, peppers and other seasonings to highlight the essence of each ingredient. Enhanced by a genuine bouquet of herbs and flowers and a lemon emulsion, his incredible medley of fresh garden veggies on an egg yolk marinated in soy sauce sings an ode to the miracle of nature. Although a fervent champion of vegetables, David is also at home with lobster, foie gras or squab, depending on his whim and the seasons.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. The small, exquisitely appointed restaurant of an Art deco-inspired bijou hotel is plush without being starched. The Nice-born chef signs a modern inspired score, founded on consummate craftsmanship and a genuine passion for forthright flavours. The menu celebrates the Mediterranean courtesy of sun-drenched dishes in which veggies play the main roles, savvily enhanced with judicious spices. High-precision cooking, big-boned jus and delicately balanced seasonings set the scene, illustrated by a marinated fillet of mackerel in tosazu vinegar, creating a vibrant combination of contrasts. The desserts are equally polished. The quintessence of fine dining paired with suitably slick service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. At the boundary of the village, this establishment is nestled in a fine Provençal house complete with a terrace beneath an arbour. On one side is a table d'hôte set up to face the glass-paned kitchens, on the other is a cosy dining area decorated in pastel and olive-green tones. Chef Nicolas Seibold (previously at La Mutinerie in Lyon, featured on French TV's Top Chef, Le Negresco, La Dame de Pic and Ledoyen) is supported by his partner Clémence Bellemin, who provides smiling service. After carefully selecting his suppliers (fishermen from Le Grau-du-Roi, local market gardeners), this creative chef devises intense dishes thanks to full-bodied sauces and jus (as on the tomato-cucumber-raspberry starter), subtle textures and a generous helping of indulgence, as in the vanilla and toast dessert.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Seafood. Gaya par Pierre Gagnaire has all the trappings of a gourmet temple, starting with its eye-catching bright blue façade and pretty awnings. A-listers and connoisseurs come here to wind down in the chic brasserie that is fashionably uncluttered yet eminently comfortable. The focus is unabashedly on good food, courtesy of a delicate, precise score in the zeitgeist with a seafaring slant: carpaccio of seabream and oyster-laced ice cream: shellfish and seafood platter; line-caught turbot with butter made from milk from Froment de Léon dairy cows; Gaya apple pie with poppy-flavoured chantilly cream.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In an up-market neighbourhood, this street corner restaurant charms courtesy of its bright dining room with contemporary lines, white concrete cladding and pair of majestic Murano chandeliers. Breton chef Camille Saint-M'Leux (formerly of Montreuil’s Villa9Trois) named his venture after his grandparents' sailboat. The cuisine follows the tides and seasons: crab fished in creels and coral roe mayonnaise, line-fished pollock from Roscoff fish auction, blue lobster in a pastry-sealed pot… Graphic plating for dishes in which fish, seafood and vegetables share the limelight. Meat lovers can rest easy as a quick look at the menus and à la carte lineup will reveal (roast venison, calf’s sweetbread, barbecued Jersey beef).

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Near the Grand’Place, this unobtrusive eatery with a glazed facade is the brainchild of two pals, both of whom boast virtuoso CVs: Valentina Giacobbe was born in Italy and grew up in Asia, graduated in political science before she turned to cooking, training at Gaya with Pierre Gagnaire before working at Rozo and then at SOlange; and Julien Ingaud-Jaubert, who trained as a pastry chef and who has also worked in top establishments (Pierre Gagnaire, Meurin, La Laiterie). Their trendy venue is the picture of a sleek contemporary bistro complete with a red-brick wall, a tribute to Lille. Valentina’s creative, delicate recipes are both distinctive and exquisitely balanced. Her seasonal menu features dishes dominated by vegetables, all of which might feature Italian or Asian accents. A fully vegetarian menu is also available.

1 Star • Creative. Opened in 1910 on the edge of the palace grounds, the Trianon Palace hotel makes its authoritative presence known to walkers who get close to it. What better place to host the work – and fiery character! – of Gordon Ramsay, already a three-starred chef in London? Head chef Gabriele Ravasio is on site to bring to life a menu that is a celebration of fine produce, playing on the simplicity and relevance of the dishes. Well-managed creativity, appealing flavours… Everything conspires to make for a most enjoyable experience, and the location certainly plays its part: an elegant and luminous baroque dining space, with bay windows looking straight out onto the grounds.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Marie-Christine and Didier Clément have successfully enhanced Sologne’s pastoral universe in their historic regional gourmet landmark thanks to some fabulous restoration work. The Offard house was entrusted with creating an incredible natural, ‘rural’ interior out of “stone cardboard”, an 18C handicraft about which chef Didier Clément is passionate. The food embodies a gourmet interpretation of the countryside, courtesy of the chef’s research into forgotten herbs and spices: grains of paradise, sand leek, angelica and lemon thyme. Clément signs a patriotic lineup, free of unnecessary frills and paired with succulent jus and sauces. Let’s not forget the knockout wine list which showcases some of the Loire’s top wineries.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Just opposite their former establishment, Alice and Alexis Letellier are writing a new chapter at Granica. In a stylish, modern setting whose raftered ceiling bears witness to the premises’ former vocation as a barn, the couple is going from strength to strength in their new HQ. The chef deftly crafts a delicate, spot-on score in which premium ingredients are subtly garnished with fresh garden herbs. A set, several-course menu, razor-precision cooking, full-bodied gravies and sauces and elegant plating set the scene. Alice, your sommelier and in charge of the front of house, plies diners with insightful wine tips. A joyful vibe depicts this eatery that ticks all the boxes.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This well-oiled machine on the banks of the River Orb, now home to two brothers – one a sommelier, the other a chef, was a cloth mill in a former life. Inside, granite and wood dominate the decor, while a glazed wine cellar stands in the centre as a reminder of the pivotal role played by wine here. The savvy wine selection demonstrates a penchant for Languedoc-Roussillon (but not exclusively), and the food and wine pairings are judicious. Chef Clément delicately balances a lineup of traditional flavours, illustrated by matured Aubrac beef (incredible meat, consummately cooked) with a confit of shallots, aubergine in basil and foie gras. Friendly atmosphere courtesy of Benjamin's seamless, cheerful front-of-house management. Tapas menus at the Trou du Kru bistro.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Near the Louvre, this restaurant is the epitome of classy elegance and crisp designer style. The quality of the ingredients is impeccable, and each dish is spot on, crafted delicately and precisely. The chef slips subtle Japanese references into his recipes, such as koshihikari rice with roast scallops, or umeboshi with Racan pigeon. The pastry chef's creations slot seamlessly into this inventive score, a case in point being the ever so subtle white grape dessert. The front-of-house team smoothly and apparently effortlessly supervises every detail of this culinary cocoon. A hipster chilled vibe meets polished professionalism – an unbeatable match!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Guillaume Scheer and his wife Charlotte are thriving in their new riverside HQ in a peaceful neighbourhood. In a smart, exclusive interior, the chef is going from strength to strength as he skilfully crafts the finest ingredients, including squab, blue lobster from Brittany, Charolais beef fillet. Rich sauces, powerful gravies, flawless technique and packed in flavour: a fine dining feast that is fully in tune with its era! Spot-on service and delightfully peaceful patio to the rear.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In 1984, Guy Lassausaie took over the kitchen at this family-run establishment, founded four generations earlier in 1906. In an elegantly refurbished interior done out in shades of grey, black and white, the chef (a Meilleur Ouvrier de France) has charted a remarkably assured course, enthusiastically celebrating local and, more generally, French tradition, with flashes of creativity. Think fillet of brill with vanilla beurre blanc, salsify and porcini, or Ain pigeon hay-roasted in a sealed cocotte, full-bodied jus and baby vegetables. Feelgood food that delivers the odd surprise.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. Geosmin is the wonderful aroma that rises from freshly ploughed or wet soil. Maxime Bouttier's restaurant, in the Oberkampf area of Paris, is located in a two-storey townhouse that has the distinctive feel and decor of the eastern districts of Paris. Hailing from France's Sarthe département, this young chef organises his distinctive, pared-back dishes into a tasting menu that follows the seasons and steers clear of the trap of over-complexity. The wine list will certainly pique your interest with its natural and biodynamic wines, as well as fine Italian, Spanish and Austrian labels.

1 Star • Japanese. On the Left Bank, on Quai Voltaire, this new sushi restaurant is hidden behind a discreet black façade without a sign, simply bearing the number 15. Inside, Masayoshi Hanada (formerly at Sushi B) builds a single omakase menu around exceptional fish – Mediterranean bluefin tuna, Auvergne trout, catch from Brittany – absolutely masterfully cut and prepared. Affording a view of the chef and his assistants meticulously going about their tasks, the superb solid hinoki (Japanese cypress) counter seats just 10 guests. Finely crafted nigiri and maki are served on refined tableware at the intersection of tradition and contemporary design. A short wine list and nine types of sake round off this memorable and special experience.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. Mathieu Boutroy, a long-time protégé of Marc Meurin prior to his six-year stint as chef at the Restaurant du Cerisier in Lille, has now opened his own restaurant in a bright space done out in a pared-back and elegant contemporary style. The refined decor is aligned with his modern and creative cuisine, which is served in the form of set menus (without options). His ambitious cooking has bags of personality, eg crab paired with carrots and enhanced with a velvety coriander sauce: on point! This is the new not-to-be-missed eatery in the greater Lille area.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Poised between Steenvoorde and Saint-Omer in the heart of Flanders, Cassel is a darling of a brick-built village. A small village for a tiny restaurant. Housed in a beautiful 18C abode with space for just 20 diners, it is run by owners who are truly passionate about fine cuisine. Chef Eugène Hobraiche meticulously crafts contemporary cuisine that goes hand in hand with seasonal produce, using local fruit and vegetables, as well as fish from Dunkirk's market: salmon confit with Sichuan pepper, textures of cabbage and shiitake dashi; roasted pollack, mustard and multi-coloured carrot gnocchi. To extend your stay, there are five equally spruce and inviting guestrooms just a short walk away.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Set within a vast wine estate founded in 1690, this restaurant is ensconced in a meticulously restored old barn. Behind the stone façade, the warmth of old materials and high wooden beams meets with more contemporary touches: a black wall, an open kitchen with state-of-the-art equipment, comfortable furniture, and large windows overlooking the vineyards and surrounding countryside. In the kitchen, the chef cooks up exquisite dishes based on impeccable-quality premium ingredients. Breton langoustine is served alongside pearly-fleshed ikejime John Dory, accompanied by sorrel and a carrot jus infused with Quercy saffron; Occitan veal is served with a pissaladière condiment and deliciously crafted artichokes. The marriages of flavours are perfectly balanced, the jus are intense and, in each dish, the main ingredient is treated with precision to retain all of its individual character.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Opposite the grandiose site of the headland of Saint Mathieu, this hostelry, which was opened by her grandparents in 1954 and then run by her parents, is now in the hands of Nolwenn Corre. The family business has kept pace with its era while respecting its heritage, courtesy of cutting-edge fixtures and fittings that rub shoulders with old stones and a huge fireplace. Plenty of poise and acres of ambition depict chef Nolwenn’s personality. Her dishes owe as much to her virtuoso skill as to the 100% local ingredients, including langoustines from Guilvinec, scallops from Brest harbour, fish from Le Conquet, and local veg. Splendid guestrooms with a sea view and simpler fare available at Bistrot 1954.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this peaceful Haute-Marne village that was close to General de Gaulle's heart, this fine 17C stone house is surrounded by beautiful grounds that blend into the countryside. Inside, however, not a hint of nostalgia, whether in the contemporary decor or the cuisine – not even in the set menu dubbed "Je vous ai compris!" (I have understood you! – from De Gaulle's famous speech). Chef Jean-Baptiste Natali has travelled extensively, taking in Marrakesh, London and New York. He creates contemporary French cuisine (with frequent nods to his travels), using premium ingredients such as venison, turbot, langoustine and sweetbreads. Cosy and comfortable guestrooms.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this intimate, dinky restaurant in a swanky neighbourhood, the bubbly kitchen team is helmed by chef Arthur Dubois (Maison Dubois). You can expect an exclusive experience in a pared-back contemporary setting: only five tables and a muted ambience reminiscent of a luxury hotel. Fresh, modern cuisine focused on first-class produce, enhanced by lavish, robust, highly technical and traditionally inspired sauces. Slick, seamless service.

1 Star • Italian. In the heart of the Royal Monceau, the corridor leading to your table is embedded with thousands of mother-of-pearl shells, in an elaborate and artistic tribute to the nymphs of Italian Baroque. The dining room, set in what looks like a conservatory painted in spring colours, resembles a genuine winter garden flanked by an alfresco area. In the kitchen, Oliver Piras and Alessandra Del Favero subtly conjure up Italian dishes that are deliciously free of fussy nonsense. Their cooking is meticulous, spot on and flavoursome and aims to highlight the natural tastes and flavours of painstakingly selected star ingredients. The same approach is true of the wine cellar which demonstrates a distinct soft spot for Piedmont and Tuscan wines.

1 Star • Mediterranean Cuisine, Italian. In a pedestrian street of historic Mulhouse, welcome to a 16C building that is a something of a culinary landmark with the locals. Chef Jean-Michel Feger has been rolling out Mediterranean-inspired cuisine here since 2001. Think mouth-watering, technically polished, modern dishes with a distinct Italian twang: saffron-spiked creamy risotto, squid, broad beans and spicy ventricina. In fine weather, soak up la dolce vita and enjoy your meal alfresco on the patio of the small courtyard. Pleasant, unstarched service.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. (Temporarily closed, reopening planned for mid-September) “Cooking has always been a means of travel for me”, explains chef Julien Lemarié, who has plied his trade in London, Tokyo and Singapore. At his restaurant, Ima, which means “now” in Japanese, this talented culinary technician conjures up instinctive cuisine showcased on tasting menus that combine subtlety with regional and Asian influences. Lemarié enhances his dishes with broths, infusions, spices, aromatic plants and algae. And for those keen to enjoy the full Japanese experience, make sure you take a seat at the bar. It's now your turn to travel!

1 Star • Chinese. A stone’s throw from the emblematic Champs Elysées, this establishment is just the ticket to try China’s imperial cuisine: sharing, lavish ingredients and time-honoured, even ancestral, recipes. Beneath the watchful eye of a head chef assisted by a kitchen brigade, as talented as they are numerous, each dish becomes a tribute to tradition: Peking duck exquisitely carved by your tableside, dim sum to die for, or chicken in Chinese yellow wine steeped in suave, subtle flavours. In a setting with a sense of occasion, each diner is pampered by a zealous front-of-house team, who also plays the role of guide, pointing out the highlights of this divinely refined Asian universe. The perfect place to sample dishes of rare authenticity.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In a small Provençal village with bags of character, Ineffable promises diners a feast for the senses. The restaurant is run by a couple with a passion for what they do: Nicolas Thomas and Marie Salomez (previously of La Promenade, La Flibuste, Château de Courban). This space with a decor of exposed stone walls and contemporary furnishings, and animated by a soundscape of soothing birdsong has just five tables. The chef riffs on poetic culinary leitmotifs, marrying olives and olive wood, plants and seafood (even meat on the larger set menu). A music lover, he has a sense for timing and harmony, as demonstrated by his composition of vegetables topped with a smoked cream.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Make your way upstairs from the Brasserie les Capucines, which serves simpler fare, to this understated, plush restaurant overlooking the castle of Saint Lô. After acquiring a faithful following of regulars in Coutances, Mickaël Marion has returned to his birthplace and opened the floodgates of his creativity. A steadfast champion of local produce, he frequently goes walking in the countryside and marshes to pick plants and herbs. Back in his kitchen, he waves his magic wand/spoon and lo and behold - meadowsweet ice cream, pesto of wild herbs and lovage appear! He is a past master in the art of subtly assembling stellar Normandy produce – scallops, fish from small boats, with a dash of exoticism. A fine dining experience to remember.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Having trained at L'Oustau de Baumanière and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Irwin Durand further fine-tuned his skills working for Alan Geaam and Guy Savoy (sous-chef at La Monnaie de Paris, chef at Le Chiberta). Not yet 40, he has used his time well! His elegantly appointed restaurant in the zeitgeist nurtures an intimate vibe (seven tables and a table d'hôte opposite the open kitchen). Backed by talented women – executive chef Camille Larquemin and pastry chef Tessa Ponzo, Irwin rolls out a seasonal surprise menu. Market-fresh ingredients are showcased with bags of flair and technical skill: ballotine of croaker à la grenobloise; calf’s sweetbread in Meaux mustard, green peas, big-boned veal gravy with a decadent creamy vanilla and miso delight to finish with a flourish.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. You won’t find more typically Basque than Ithurria on Ainhoa’s Place du Fronton facing the village pelota wall! The attractive, traditional family-run establishment has retained its terracotta tiled floors, wooden rafters, gleaming copper pots and vintage tableware. With his pastry-chef brother Louis, chef Martin Isabal, who learned the ropes in star establishments, has taken over the reins from Uncle Xavier. The brothers sign a delicate menu in the zeitgeist founded on their Basque roots. Martin’s enticing score is sourced exclusively from local producers and their own kitchen garden. The terroir takes centre stage in delicious recipes: wafer-thin jelly of pressed garden tomatoes and smoked anchovies; ikejime of line-caught red tuna from St-Jean-de-Luz and stuffed courgette flower; raspberries, soufflé of egg white and crunchy hazelnuts. Maitre d’ and sommelier, Thomas Rouch, a long-standing member of the team, supervises the front of house.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Purebred Normandy chef Ivan Vautier has been honing his talents for over thirty years in this property, done up in tasteful contemporary vein outside the town centre. Fiercely proud of his region, the chef aims to showcase the very best of Normandy’s ingredients in soul-warming recipes: green asparagus from Bellengreville; wild morels from a local picker; double cream from Isigny Sainte Mère; Normandy raised pork etc, without forgetting the local catch. Those with a sweet tooth will be entranced by the vision of a millefeuille “as high as a skyscraper”!

1 Star • Traditional Cuisine. Jacques Faussat, born in Gers and proud of it, clearly aspires to the simplicity of his childhood roots. A simplicity also passed down by Michel Guérard and above all, Alain Dutournier. Jacques’ meeting with the latter, also born in Gers, proved to be decisive in his career, starting with ten years spent in the kitchen of the Trou Gascon. He sign flavoursome cuisine made with intelligently crafted produce in a bid to nurture the flavours and aromas. Eater-friendly prices.

1 Star • Creative. South African chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, whose former careers involved working as a chef on private yachts in Monaco and as a photojournalist for a top magazine, has already lived several lives… In his cosy (20-seater), romantic eatery near the port, he signs creative, personal cuisine in the shape of a single set menu, in which he plays on sweet and sour combinations, and dabbles in smoky, spicy and acidic flavours, giving us an insight into South African cuisine. When it is time for cheese, you will discover a cheese bar opposite the restaurant with a buffet of some twenty different cheeses, a range of beverages, preserves and dried fruit.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Jacques and Laurent Pourcel are at the helm of the restaurant of the lavish 17C Richer de Belleval Hotel located in the heights of Montpellier. Beneath head-spinning ceiling frescoes or on the exquisite courtyard patio, it is a joy to (re)sample the culinary talents of the Montpellier twins in which every detail is puzzled and preened over as they finetune Gallic recipes adding their hallmark creative stamp. We warrant that Richer de Belleval, botanist and founder of Montpellier’s botanic gardens, would have appreciated this gourmet score!

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. Established in this iconic luxury hotel on Avenue Montaigne, a high-flying kitchen brigade consummately and indulgently adds a fresh perspective to France’s culinary heritage: Dieppe-style seabass, Albufera poultry, venison à la royale and the extravagant “grand dessert”… Seated at the majestic marble table d'hôte in the Régence hall dripping in gilt work and pampered by Denis Courtiade’s on-the-ball team, how could you not fall under the spell?

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Rather than a summons to a hearing, this restaurant near the courthouse extends an invitation to foodies! Jean-Claude Leclerc has been running this popular Clermont-Ferrand restaurant for over two decades. The chef delivers his balanced and assured take on seasonal classical cuisine in an elegant contemporary setting. The dishes are unapologetically indulgent, as illustrated by the beef tournedos with Périgueux sauce and melt-in-the-mouth potatoes with Cantal cheese, or the sea bass with gently braised savoy cabbage and black truffle.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. The late Jean-Luc Tartarin, ever true to his native Normandy, has left his mark on the French gastronomy scene with seafood dishes in which the modernism of Le Havre meets the soul of the region's terroir. In a pleasant, cosy setting decorated in a palette of soothing beige tones, nestled in the historical city centre (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), Annabelle and her team are committed to continuing this legacy and keeping this philosophy alive.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Seated behind the restaurant’s floor to ceiling windows, admire the sun’s rays glinting on the ocean. A talented skipper has dropped anchor here in the person of Jean-Marc Pérochon who went to sea at 17, crossing the channel to Scotland, before cruising around Europe and as far as the West Indies. In his hotel-restaurant, his cooking is both minimalist and sprinkled with exotic flavours, extractions, stocks and emulsions, leaving our tastebuds aching for more. He believes in working only with first-rate goods, namely fish and shellfish from the fish auction at Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie (which dominate the menu), but also Challans poultry and vegetables from local growers.

1 Star • Japanese, Sushi. Wedged between the Louvre Museum and Place Vendôme, this suitably exclusive, well-heeled establishment caters to ten diners at most, who are lucky enough to book a seat at the handsome wooden counter. Diners admire the dexterity of the Japanese chefs as they meticulously craft sushi and sashimi with knife-edged precision using only top-calibre produce (the fish, from Brittany or Spain, is matured to be served at the optimal moment). There is a single "omakase" menu, meaning the diner leaves the choice to the chef. A consummate performance of virtuoso talent, discreet, slick service and a superb selection of sakes.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Chef Julien Allano (La Mirande, Le Clair de la Plume) chose to go it alone and set up shop in this beautiful traditional building in the heart of the village. In an interior with exposed stonework, the chef can be seen at work behind a wooden counter. Meanwhile, guests are seated on handcrafted furnishings made of untreated walnut wood – a decor that oozes style. The carte blanche menu, which is divided into several sections, reflects the season from day to day. Heirloom varieties of wheat, peanuts from Malataverne, green beans from a neighbouring farm and pigeon from Sarrians are just some of the carefully sourced local ingredients used to create harmonious, delicate cuisine, rife with the flavours of the South of France, about which the chef is genuinely passionate. The "Cheese Experience" is held in a huge, superb vaulted cellar dating back to the 13C.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This charming town is famous for its Cathedral Saint Étienne, Notre-Dame-en-Vaux collegiate church and countless historic sites that bear witness to its illustrious past. At the Hôtel d’Angleterre, chef Jérôme Feck aims to perpetuate Champagne’s gourmet traditions and the heritage of the town’s iconic restaurant. Also a pastry chef, he has worked his way from Langres to Reims via Épernay, so the Champagne region holds no secrets for him… His flair for intense and balanced sauces is particularly notable, where the main ingredients are enhanced by judicious touches of flavour - acidity or smokiness, for example. More traditional fare in the next-door bistro Les Temps Changent.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Veteran chef Jérôme Nutile is far from a rookie: "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" 2011, he notably presided over the heyday of Hostellerie Le Castellas, in Collias. In his Nîmes headquarters, a converted farmhouse, he celebrates the seasons: melt-in-the-mouth leeks cooked over Camargue fleur de sel, fondant of wild salmon confit; the iconic French hare ‘à la royale’ cooked two ways - in the style of Antonin Carême and Senator Couteaux's recipe, beautifully executed and equally tasty. Add to this slick friendly service and a fantastic list of regional wines, and you have everything you could ask for!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Founded in 1932, Kasbür has been linked to the Kieffer family for three generations. The restaurant on the outskirts of Saverne owes its name to the great-grandfather, a farmer who made his cheeses here. Yves Kieffer, his great-grandson, brought this handsome building into the modern era with its dining room overlooking the magnificent Alsace countryside. After working in the kitchens of La Tour d'Argent and Marc Meneau's restaurant in Vézelay, the chef returned, driven by his strong sense of heritage and unwavering standards. His cooking showcases quality seasonal produce like this John Dory, marinated and precisely cooked, with green asparagus, young broad beans and fresh peas.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this little village in the Vallée d'Aulps in the Chablais area, between Thonon and Morzine, what a surprise to find Breton chef Jean-Philippe Lemaire, who has worked abroad as well as in the region, notably at Le Clos des Sens, Le K2 and Le Farçon. Familiar with the Alps, of course, but also with Asia, he will win you over with his subtle, free-spirited cuisine. The dishes may give pride of place to the natural surroundings, but they also draw on the chef's memories of his travels, with nods to his native Brittany (eg churned butter with buckwheat or caramelised milk). Biscuit de brochet–sauce aigrelette; trout, courgette, marjoram, fish soup: refined simplicity dominates these immaculately presented plates, and the sauce boats are left on the table for you. In this imposing regional building, where you dine beneath the cathedral ceiling, there are also three guestrooms.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This fine dining restaurant is tucked away in a quiet back street between the indoor market and the beautiful church, Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Port. Its name, in the local dialect, refers to the small fish caught by children in the port. At the helm, a talented pair, Mélanie Roussy and Boris Harispe, trained at Michelin-starred restaurants (including La Villa Madie), have decked the place out in a contemporary style (navy and white walls, designer furniture etc). The menu is packed with seafood dishes (among others) and constantly changes, as the chef scrupulously follows the seasons, works with all ingredients, premium or not, from sardines to scallops, with a keen sense for sauces and cooking techniques. A success.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This man-made island – home to a hotel complex with swimming pool and spa – separated from the Mediterranean by a barrier beach is, to say the least, a surprising location. The terrace on the water's edge is a delight, as is the generous cuisine cooked up by chef Frédéric Bacquié, who gravitates toward the fine produce of the Catalan terroir and locally caught fish. A sure touch when it comes to cooking and seasoning results in elegant, precisely plated food: John Dory caught by Olivier in Argelès-sur-Mer, basil, courgette and verjus sauce; red mullet, sirloin steak, vegetables from Adrien; Saint-Génis-des-Fontaines figs with vanilla and Banyuls… The lunchtime set menu is excellent value for money. L'Aquarama serves indulgent cuisine in a "chic bistro" decor.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Seafood. An Alter-Native – or another birth, even a rebirth – is how Gilles Goujon views this restaurant project. In Béziers, where he grew up and studied, the chef of the Auberge du Vieux Puits, who needs no introduction, is carving out a new niche: developing a concept of eco-responsible seafood- and plant-forward cuisine. With vegetables from the aquaponics garden and other treasures from the South of France, the executive chef cooks up appetisingly generous and no-nonsense dishes, such as his courgette rolls "Hommage à Roger Vergé". There is a pleasant terrace-patio for sunny days.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. In Le K2 Altitude Hotel, this restaurant is snugly set in a chic Alpine-style decor with an exclusive vibe. The spot-on service is top-notch. Connoisseurs will instantly recognise the lineup of patriotic French classics, synonymous with top Parisian restaurants: wild mushroom tartlet with fermented cèpe jus or roasted venison with tangy beetroot and grand veneur sauce. Flavour and generosity are the order of the day, and that also applies to the subtle, modern desserts by Sébastien Vauxion.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Installed in the centre of Lannion, the chef rustles up modern Gallic fare, dotted with Japanese overtones, in tribute to his avowed passion for the Land of the Rising Sun. As a result, some of his high-precision recipes, based on super-fresh Brittany produce (langoustine, lobster, John Dory), are sprinkled with Japanese ingredients such as yuzu, shiitake, miso, etc. Lashings of imagination, art-directed plating, stylish elegance and high-flying technique complete this culinary score. Let’s not forget the warm, colourful interior.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This traditionally-built house, surrounded by lush greenery is so peaceful that you forget its location in the suburbs. The terrace, covered by a bioclimatic pergola, is a hit during the summer, while the stylish interior is both tasteful and comfortable. Chef Jérémy Morin skilfully rolls out creative dishes: roast rack of veal, brioche of sweetbread, vanilla-laced artichoke and a gutsy gravy or roast monkfish in sumac with braised baby gem lettuce in a raspberry seasoning, creamy yoghurt and a red wine and balsamic vinegar sauce.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This restaurant with an appealing façade and sleek interior (dark brushed-effect painted walls, wooden fittings, large window letting in plenty of natural light) was designed by a chef with a passion for produce. After working at Hiramatsu for 18 years, for 10 of which he was head chef, he now astounds diners with his dazzlingly modern, precise and coherent French cuisine. While casting a spotlight on premium-quality ingredients, he also does a beautiful job of staying true to the seasons. You will find no fixed menu here: the set menus change every day in line with the chef's inspiration. And in case you were curious: The name of this place is an homage to Alain Senderens and his restaurant L'Archestrate, but it is also a clever play on words ("artisanal", "orchestra" and "art"). In the end, what matters is that you enjoy yourself… and you certainly will.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Laure and Fabien Mengus are at the helm of this iconic restaurant. Fabien, who had already made his talent known at the nearby Le Cygne, demonstrates that he is perfectly at ease building bridges between tradition and modernity – both in terms of the decor and the food. Relax in these peaceful surroundings overlooking the forest as you sample a varied lineup that showcases emblematic seasonal ingredients.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This attractive restaurant is idyllically located near Place Masséna in the heart of Nice. The contemporary decor sports a black, white and gold colour scheme, untreated materials such as wood and granite and a glazed kitchen overlooking the dining room. The scene is set for chef, Mickaël Gracieux, armed with an iron-clad CV (Oustau de Baumanière, Plaza Athénée, Le Bristol, Louis XV, etc), to craft modern, creative and elegantly presented cuisine using top-quality produce from Nice and the Mediterranean (San Remo prawns, trumpet courgettes, local green crab, squid and citrus fruits, etc). A chef with the background and the ambition to achieve his high-flying goals.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Breathe in an aroma, a perfume, a bouquet… such is the enticing agenda that awaits diners at this elegant establishment off the Champs-Élysées. A devotee of seasonal produce, chef Thomas Boullault meticulously prepares a polished contemporary line-up. The set menus reflect the seasons and what’s going at the market. You will fall under the spell of his delicate, balanced handiwork: lobster ravioles with Mexican tarragon or loin of venison rubbed with Manakara berries… Scents and flavours to savour and appreciate in a tastefully stylish setting.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Chef Keigo Kimura creates his signature Japanese-inflected French cuisine in this simple, contemporary decor. Using the finest ingredients – Challans duck, Wagyu beef, lobster and game – he devises a mystery tasting menu that calls on sophisticated cooking techniques (grilling over binchotan charcoal) and an impressive eye for minimalist plating. The memory of his wild boar pie with its shiny golden pastry and intensely game-flavoured filling, accompanied by Sarladaise potatoes, shiitake mushrooms and a port jus lingers with us still! Last but not least, the wine cellar beneath the restaurant is an Aladdin’s Cave for connoisseurs. Shorter menu deal at lunchtime.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. With no less than two establishments in the French capital, Joël Robuchon’s renowned Ateliers are literally making their way around the world. The saga began on here, a stone's throw from the Arc de Triomphe, in the basement of the Champs Élysées Publicis Drugstore. In a red and black interior, diners sit on high stools at a long counter overlooking the kitchen in a hushed and meditative vibe. The Robuchon brand embodies a contemporary approach to fine dining, including a vegetarian menu. Diners can choose between small tasting portions or regular helpings. A final touch that will please wine buffs: all the wines by the glass are served from magnums.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. After stints in the kitchens of top establishments and the French embassies of London and Bamako, Nicolas Guilloton has turned his ‘workshop’ into a stylish, contemporary venue. The African masks decorating the spacious dining area are a nod to the chef's time in Mali. With Thomas Belval, his steadfast right-hand man, he delights diners with surprise menus that showcase his flair for balanced flavours and his commitment to locally sourced ingredients. The resulting repertory is original, high-flying, filled with flavour and demonstrates a savvy style when it comes to veggies. The lunchtime menu is a steal. The wine cellar reflects a genuine quest for eco-responsible producers.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Martin Schongauer, one of the greatest late-15C engravers and painters from the Rhine, had his studio just across from this establishment, whose walls date back to the Renaissance. The chic, cosy interior, by contrast, has a decidedly contemporary vibe. When it comes to the food, Loïc Lefebvre cooks up precise modern cuisine, which is rife with creative twists and, needless to say, evolves with the seasons. Freshness, subtlety and also indulgence are the hallmarks of his Marennes oyster poached with green apple and dill, or his matured Salers beef tenderloin with red wine sauce.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Just around the corner from the Musée Jules Verne, this fine mansion dating from 1874 overlooks the River Loire and the Île de Nantes. Through the restaurant's large panoramic windows, you can observe the boats as they come and go, Le Hangar à Bananes and the grey Titan crane – an emblem of the port city of Nantes. A Breton (from Vannes) who trained in Alsace at the Auberge de l'Ill before working as a chef in New Orleans and Hong Kong, Jean-Yves Guého conjures up a highly precise and refined array of dishes in which fish takes pride of place. The list of Loire wines is well worth perusing. Pretty, modern guestrooms with a view.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Sarthois born and bred, chef Jean-Sébastien Monné is originally from these parts. He presides over this former inn in which the industrial style of a light-filled metal-framed extension meets the bucolic charm of the garden and terrace. He cultivates the art of working with small local producers and is devoted to the joys of rooftop beekeeping. Thanks to the meticulous work that goes into the selection of impeccable-quality ingredients, he is able to put his own more modern spin on the classics: Angus beef prepared as a tartare, breaded and fried quail's egg, puffed potato; duck from Canard Soulard, baby carrots, orange and bigarade sauce.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Chef Benjamin Breton (previously at Fiskebar at the Ritz-Carlton hotel in Geneva) is at the helm of this fine dining restaurant next to his Bistrot de Madeleine. Here in the village of Lucinges, he serves up modern and subtly creative cuisine in the form of a monthly single set menu. The rigorously selected ingredients are locally sourced, give or take a few premium-quality exceptions. Vegetables enjoy the limelight, with beautifully contrasting flavours and sublime sauces, and masterful cooking elevating ingredients such as ikejime lake trout or line caught sea bass with green asparagus, wild garlic and caviar. The focal point of the bright, contemporary space is the glass-walled wine cellar, which homes in on top-quality and original natural and organic wines.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The couple at the helm of this contemporary-style inn nestled on the banks of the River Dordogne are passionate about what they do. A selection of set menus showcases chef Thomas L'Hérisson's knack for precisely combining ingredients in a modern and quietly creative style. The shredded poultry with sweet spices and leek, a spicy jus, butternut squash and tangy mushrooms, chicken liver terrine or matured meagre, smoked potato espuma and a sauce reminiscent of a beurre noisette and sherry hollandaise are the perfect reflection of the chef's personality. The fine wine list – with some 550 labels – has something for everyone. Hostess Manuela lavishes diners with attentive service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Set in a luxury hotel complete with a golf course, spa and pool, L’Aupiho pays a vibrant tribute to regional traditions, which is hardly surprising given its location at the foot of the Alpilles and the Baux… This passion for Provence is embodied by a youthful Belgian chef, Lieven Van Aken, who kicked off his career in Brussels before working under Michel Guérard. His recipes are meticulous, but they are also bold and powerful: vegetarian bouillabaisse, saffron rouille; smoked and grilled sweetbread, tartare of seaweed and Mediterranean langoustines. Century-old plane trees set the refreshing scene on the leafy patio.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the heart of Fontainebleau, this smart, low-key restaurant is the HQ of a Japanese chef who orchestrates a new take on pure-bred Gallic gastronomy whilst scrupulously respecting the seasons. Kunihisa Goto is a fan of French cuisine, wines and iconic produce. After training with the best, he reinvents the classics with panache, incorporating a host of Japanese ingredients: daikon, lotus roots, nori, shiso leaves, Wagyu beef… His version of the slow-cooked egg has become a must. Each dish is a masterclass of plating, balanced flavours and gourmet indulgence. Attentive, courteous service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this luxury chalet hotel in the heart of the resort, L'Ekrin is a cosy cocoon with furnishings and tableware designed down to the smallest detail (the crockery was specially created by a ceramist from Thônes). Chef Laurent Azoulay crafts creative and refined cuisine that skilfully blends the influences of his native Provence and adopted home of Savoie. Uncompromising when it comes to sourcing, he showcases the finest Mediterranean fish, local poultry and escargots from Savoie in subtle dishes; these are often complemented by side dishes that play on texture and flavour. Highly skilled when it comes to sauces, he is as at ease making a full-bodied meat jus as he is conjuring up an intense rockfish soup with saffron. His confident technique never overshadows the deliciousness or generosity of his dishes. The 100% vegetarian set menu, charmingly dubbed "korti" (a word in the Savoyard dialect meaning "vegetable garden") showcases his boundless creativity.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. After competing on French TV's Top Chef and working in the kitchens of chef Olivier Bellin at Auberge des Glazicks, Guillaume Pape is flourishing in his own restaurant set up in modern premises. Working in an open kitchen, he serves seasonal cuisine de terroir dedicated to high-quality ingredients. His creations include flambéed pollack with a Champagne sauce, served with butternut ravioli and shellfish. For dessert, his iconic "Douceur de Lait" is a tempting rice pudding mousse with dulce de leche, vanilla ice cream and milk opaline.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine, Modern Cuisine. This town house (once the station café) has morphed into a gourmet restaurant with a chic, modern vibe and walls adorned with photos and paintings. The recipes are the work of seasoned chef Régis Douysset, who is backed up by a crack team in the kitchen. The ingredient-led cuisine is precisely and generously cooked and seasoned, a case in point being the frogs' legs sautéed in garlic with a watercress velouté sauce. The dishes go down a treat with meticulously selected wines from small-scale producers. Pleasant terrace for sunny days.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Previously Laurent Petit's sous-chef at Le Clos des Sens in Annecy-le-Vieux, Stéphane Dattrino is now at the helm his own restaurant that is pretty as a picture. Behind its discreet façade, there are plenty of tables for two (opt for one upstairs) and, despite its deliberately relaxed feel, the service here is very much on the mark. With a sure hand, the chef creates tasty and colourful dishes, his seasonal palette combining top-quality produce, such as local plants and herbs. Confit trout with celeriac, curry and horseradish ; roasted veal sweetbreads, or lièvre à la royale – these are dishes that are big on flavour.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Let’s get down to the basics (or the Essentials), rather than losing time in pointless conjectures. The ingredient rules in this family-run restaurant, next-door to the cathedral, and Éric Vidal is its virtuoso (yet humble) servant. For thirty or so diners, he organises a genuine banquet of flavour, thanks to delicately balanced preparations. Wild turbot baked in olive oil, pressed celery with black truffles; tartare of mango and pineapple with passion fruit jelly and French almond tea cakes… The tasty culinary score is flanked by a selection of wines that is fully equal to the attractive menu. The slick, professional service adds a final flourish to the feast.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. This bright modern bistro is the HQ of Frenchman Charles Thuillant and Korean Mi-Ra, a globetrotting couple who met in Ze Kitchen Gallery, a mecca of French-Asian cuisine. But it was ultimately in Deauville, where Charles spent his holidays as a child, that they opened their own restaurant. Together, they conjure up vibrant, lively dishes in which Normandy country produce is melded with perfectly judged Asian influences, for example marinated fish in a mango-passion fruit seasoning; wagyu beef, smoked jus, samsang; nodi marini pasta, oyster, wakame, crunchy veggies… Spot-on service and a modern, cosy interior.

1 Star • Creative. (Temporarily closed for renovations, reopening planned for spring) This place lives up to its name: insolent, cheeky and even irreverent! There is something rather rock 'n' roll about German-born Fabian Feldmann, a creative chef who likes to break the rules – which isn't to say he is unfamiliar with them having been classically trained in some prestigious establishments, such as L'Oasis in La Napoule and Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. But in his Biarritz restaurant he gives free rein to his imagination, with occasionally outlandish results that always hit the mark. The finest raw materials, most notably fish from the Capbreton fish market, are cooked and seasoned in original ways.

1 Star • Creative. Established on the ground floor of a Belle Époque edifice, chef Rémi Laroque rustles up modern, distinctly globe-trotting food. This Puy-de-Dôme lad with Vietnamese origins scatters his cooking with numerous Asian, particularly Japanese twists. His wholehearted culinary dedication shines through, particularly in the line-up of dishes around a single ingredient (be it lobster or fennel) that fully embody his spot-on knack for pairing. His medallion of monkfish, flanked by fennel, lovage oil and coconut cream, showcases his delicate craftsmanship. Street art on the walls, unusual tableware and amazing plant sculptures set the scene.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. The decadently revamped Domaine de Locguénolé comprises a 19C château and an 18C Breton manor house set in 120ha of wooded grounds that are also home to a "farmyard" with chickens, goats, ducks and turkeys, as well as a kitchen garden, orchard and beehives that supply the restaurant. The luxurious and elegant dining area, reminiscent of the heyday of the East India Company, lies beneath an industrial-vibe conservatory structure surrounded by plants. This is the heady atmosphere in which chef Yann Maget (Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2023 and stints in top kitchens to his name) serves his precise and refined cuisine. The spotlight is on Brittany, with kari gosse, boudin noir, cuttlefish and andouille gracing each plate. Top-drawer ingredients crafted with skill and technical expertise in a constant quest to bring out flavours – with sauces that are full-bodied and robust. Think squid brilliantly paired with pork and enhanced with sauce charcutière, or sea bass with shellfish and cauliflower.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This stone building in the Mâconnais region is surrounded by a landscape of vineyards that extends to the Roche de Solutré. It houses the restaurant of a true Burgundian, Sébastien Chambru, who worked notably at Le Moulin de Mougins. He then headed off to Japan and, in Tokyo, was enthralled by the respect the Japanese chefs had for their ingredients. The author of several cookery books, he now conjures up his delicately creative cuisine here in Fuissé, finding inspiration in the day’s market (marinated and flamed tuna with condiments and beetroot-yuzu vinaigrette for example). In the adjoining bistrot/wine bar, they serve hearty fare and fantastic wines.

1 Star • Creative. In an ideal location in the heart of the old town, this restaurant has three areas: the main dining room with a view into the kitchen, a pleasantly secluded terrace and Le Balcon de l'Odas, a private lounge with a view of the cathedral. Chef Suzanne Da Silva's resolutely seasonal cuisine boldly draws on her origins in the north of France and ingredients from Normandy's terroir: vegetables from a market gardener in the Eure, farmhouse cream, organic mushrooms from a local mushroom farm, bread made by a Meilleur Ouvrier de France in Rouen, and fish from nearby fish markets. She puts it all to good use in a carefully crafted surprise set menu.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This elegant house built of local stone is something of an institution on the Right Bank, in a neighbourhood that is not renowned for its stock of good restaurants. Passionate about ingredients and flavour, chef François Sauvêtre crafts pared-back and straightforward cuisine, eschewing fancy techniques. The multi-course surprise set menu highlights the chef's talent for sauces; the "Balade de Saison" set menu offers excellent value for money at lunchtime and in the evening. The completely refurbished dining room, done out in soft shades of white, blue and grey, opens out onto a quiet south-facing terrace with a view of the garden and tables when the weather is fine.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. You only have to take a look at chef Jérôme Roy’s star-studded CV (Gagnaire and Troisgros, together with a star earned at the Couvent des Minimes at Mane) to know he has an ambitious roadmap! Born in Loches, he has returned to his roots in the company of his spouse, and together they have created this smart, trendy venue. Roy deftly crafts modern, creative fare that keeps pace with the seasons and is meticulously sourced: sautéed scallops in a stock of the scallop frills, dried lime and Aleppo pepper; lamb in provençal herbs, artichoke and samphire; segments of pink grapefruit marinated in spicy mulled wine…

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. After stints in respected MICHELIN-starred kitchens in Switzerland and Chantilly, Alain Montigny (Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2004) is now the chef at the exquisite Tiara Miramar Beach Resort, the terrace of which commands a jaw-dropping view of the sea and the mountains of the Massif de l'Estérel. His delicious Mediterranean-inspired dishes are balanced and delicately flavoured thanks to top-quality ingredients. Superb craftsmanship is evident in his roasted langoustine with beetroot tartare and raspberry condiment, and his line-caught turbot with lemon-marinated courgette and sheep's-milk cheese. For a sweet finish, try the balsamic vinegar-glazed cherries, pistachio chiboust and cherry sorbet.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Chef Naoëlle d'Hainaut chose this small side street at the foot of Pontoise Cathedral as the location for her first restaurant. The result is a real success, from the elegant decor (Scandinavian style, light colours, glass-fronted wine cellar, open kitchen) to the contemporary cuisine. One dish that lingers in the memory is the iced lobster with a concentrated jus, roasted quinoa, shiitake mushrooms and a beurre noisette foam. Each dish rolls out the same technical skill, harmony of flavours and refreshing honesty, underpinned by well-paced, relaxed and professional service from a young and efficient team. A restaurant that comes highly recommended.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. Comfortably installed in what used to be the fine dining restaurant, L'Orangerie is a real treat, indulging diners with an array of options. The most emblematic dishes and recipes of the father of nouvelle cuisine, the late Michel Guérard, are present and correct. Alternatively, you can get your teeth into fine cuts of meat from the Landes département (Blonde d'Aquitaine and Bazadaise beef, local poultry etc) cooked over an open fire. Finally, there are starters that combine classics and brasserie dishes (house-smoked salmon, horseradish cream and toast; avocado "cocktail" and large Palamós prawns). An establishment that combines nostalgia and a sense of wellbeing, as epitomised by the pigeon pie with foie gras and sour cherries (served here since 1983) or the appetising dessert trolley.

1 Star • Thai. In a revamped interior, this orchid invites us on mouthwatering, gourmet journey. The modern, scrupulously crafted Thai cuisine is elegant and perfumed, illustrated by a tom yam of blue lobster, coconut milk and galanga or Vosges squab, served with sweetcorn, girolles mushrooms, polenta and red curry. Delicious from start to finish and a phenomenal success story.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. On the edge of the forest of Hez, this gracious late-19C mansion, set in peaceful wooded grounds, is ideal for a gourmet weekend in the country. After savouring the peace and quiet of the terrace, the plush bourgeois interior provides the perfect foil for the talents of chef Nicolas Leclercq and his wife Yolaine. Nicolas’ grandmother first opened the restaurant back in 1956, at which time she made her own butter from the milk of her own cow! The large cottage garden (take the time to stroll around it after your meal) supplies the kitchen with fresh vegetables and herbs, which are picked by the chef’s father. Today, the chef, who bakes his own sourdough bread, crafts down-to-earth, mouthwatering, seasonal food.

1 Star • Creative. Quentin Brunet (formerly of Polypode) welcomes diners confidently and warmly to this Ostal (house in the local dialect). You will be seated in a snug dining room (seating for twenty) appointed in a smart, contemporary vibe with natural materials. The several-course set menu showcases the chef’s creativity and culinary skill: Breton langoustine, horseradish-laced seaweed tartare; free-range guinea fowl with cèpes and butternut; blueberry dessert with fermented milk and oxalis. A spot-on lineup in the zeitgeist.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. Jacky Ribault (Qui Plume la Lune, in the 11th arrondissement) makes no secret that he considers this Ours (bear), near the château de Vincennes, to be the pinnacle of his career. He designed it in his image, mixing volumes and shapes in a felicitous blend of wood, metal, stone and leather, creating a coherent setting for culinary creations to which he holds the key. Guaranteed to uplift, the food is rich in everything we love about this veteran chef, as talkative as he is enthusiastic: his instinctive hallmark, exquisite plating and raw inspirations that subtly underscore first-class ingredients. A proud Breton, Ribault remains true to his roots, while jazzing them up with subtle Japanese notes: monkfish cooked à la meunière and served with white Paimpol beans, emulsion of clams and watercress coulis or dashi stock served in a fish roe jelly and flanked by green zebra tomato sorbet…

1 Star • Creative. Housed in a hotel overlooking the port of Carry-le-Rouet, this restaurant boasts stunning panoramic views of the sea and the Frioul archipelago. Beyond an enamelled lava stone bar, diners drop anchor in a venue that sports an uncluttered maritime slant. Youthful Ilane Tinchant, after stints at Villa Madie and with Sylvestre Wahid, deploys his talent and maturity at the service of a 6- or 8-course set menu overflowing in delicate seafood and veggie notes: textures of cuttlefish, served confit in its ink, tempura with a "cloud of garlic"; grilled John Dory, sea grape and a jus infused in fig leaf… Whether it be the food or the view from the terrace, the sea is everywhere.

1 Star • Mediterranean Cuisine. Hôtel des Roches has been entirely rebuilt with local Bormes stone, giving it a new lease of life. Perched on the rocks just above the sea, it boasts spectacular views from Cap Nègre to the Îles du Levant. In the kitchen, chef Antoine Gras (La Table de l'Ours, Val-d'Isère) takes up residency for the summer, returning to the Mediterranean roots of his early career. His cuisine is pared back (a premium ingredient, a sauce and a side) and rooted in local tradition: fish from a Le Lavandou fisherman; herbs and vegetables from his kitchen garden. Tamaris oysters are enveloped in seaweed and spinach, steamed, and finished with a caviar beurre blanc. Line-caught bass is served perfectly pearlescent on a pistou-infused vegetable ragout. For dessert: red berries, crispy Melba brioche, whipped vanilla cream and a bright tarragon coulis.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. In a wine-producing village, this pretty stone house, whose terrace overlooks a small square shaded by ancient plane trees, is the quintessence of rural France. Supremely fresh ingredients that celebrate Provence are deftly crafted into well-thought out recipes: Mediterranean gilt-head bream, grilled aubergine and girolle mushrooms; Aveyron-reared veal, chard and marjoram; fig, rosemary and balsamic vinegar… The wine cellar is a treasure trove of surprises, including the wines by the glass.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Seafood. This shipowner's house on the pretty little port dates back to 1652. With wood panelling, a fireplace and old hardwood floors, the well-kept interior is inviting… but in fine weather, the terrace beckons. The menu is an ode to local fishing and the place is renowned for the excellent quality of its fish – the place to eat on the island!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Conventional French wisdom has it that you shouldn't judge a tree by its bark (écorce), but we would beg to differ! In an intimate setting accommodating around 20 covers facing the kitchen, the chef demonstrates a sure touch. The dishes, always accessible and balanced, feature carefully sourced ingredients and precise sauces – a contemporary tart of vegetables and seaweed; John Dory with mushrooms, passion fruit and olive sauce; Aveyron veal cooked two ways. The wine list homes in on a handful of well-chosen labels, with some excellent pairings available by the glass.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. A former orphanage provides an out-of-the-ordinary venue for the cuisine of Yohann Chapuis, who learned the ropes at Lameloise. The chef crafts food rich in “taste and emotion”, which has its own distinct identity and character, thanks to premium seasonal produce, like scallops, day-boat turbot and game, all exquisitely presented. As examples, take these ormers from Brittanny, with mushrooms, watercress and juniper, or Bresse chicken cooked three ways, with red-wine poached pears. An excellent wine list and a knowledgeable sommelier complete the picture.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. In this tastefully restored farmstead in Bas-Dauphiné, chef Romain Hubert crafts carte blanche menus that err between tradition and creativity. His cuisine, which owes much to the first-rate quality of its meticulously sourced ingredients, 99% of which are local and purchased direct, is a consummate blend of taste and texture: green and white asparagus, trout and lovage; free-range rabbit cooked three ways with chards.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In summer, you may end up in this cosy chalet at the foot of the mountains by a pond, after a daylong hike through the lovely Jura forests, having worked up a healthy appetite. In winter, kick off your snowshoes and admire the Christmas carol picture. The menu features traditional French cuisine and Jacques Barnachon frequently shines the spotlight on the region, with game in the autumn and prime produce (John-Dory, lobster, fillet of Charolais beef). Jacques is also a mushroom specialist, notably the morel, which is the star of his signature ragoût. Wood dominates in the dining room, which also boasts a view of the kitchen. Interesting wine list.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. This sun-lit restaurant near Lyon is set in peaceful grounds. The venue’s owners, front-of-house manager, Constant Delouis, and his partner, Japanese sommelier Hiroki Hashino, have enlisted the talented services of chef Yo Miyazaki. The latter’s delicate culinary score is elegant, flavoursome and sprinkled with creative details and nods to tradition. Discreet references to the Land of the Rising Sun can also be detected in some dishes, illustrated by an Isère trout marinated in white miso with a beurre blanc-style jus and braised endive. Warm and welcoming.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The striking metal fretwork façade of this restaurant on the outskirts of Mayenne is well worth a gander. Once inside, you will be greeted by a tastefully understated snug dining room. It is the stomping ground of a husband-and-wife team, chef Nicolas and Isabelle Nobis, both locals, who honed their skills with Bernard Loiseau and Georges Blanc. Simplicity and natural are the hallmarks of the chef's cooking, who strives to work with plants and vegetables sourced from local producers. The regularly renewed menu reverently respects the seasons.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. Local lad Gaëtan Evrard pays tribute to the seasons and his homeland in this old house in a small town, some fifteen kilometres from Tours. Regional veg and meat and fish straight from Brittany: the ingredients are the star of the show, enhanced by the market-fresh ethos of a chef who is not afraid to push the boundaries, e.g. steamed Brittany oyster, cucumber and confit lemon or a tomato-themed dessert with a basil sorbet, fresh goat’s cheese and vanilla mousse. Choose from the excellent list of Loire wines that is perfectly suited to the chef's creative cooking.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. Laurent Lemal unveils the full gamut of his talents in this idyllic spot overlooking the harbour and Collioure, right by the water. His distinctive cuisine focused on local ingredients exalts the plentiful fare of Catalonia. The "signature 2025" dish features red onions from Toulouges, skilfully prepared as a mousse, ice cream and confit. The chef has a fondness for finely crafted surf and turf combinations, such as Mediterranean scorpion fish accompanied by "plural" courgettes with basil and a courgette flower with a brandade farce. Pastry chef Julie (Laurent Lemal's wife) whips up delicate desserts with Catalan DNA, featuring, for example, raspberries, fermented milk and perilla. A made-to-measure dining experience designed with the maître d’hôtel, who takes the time to talk to each guest before the start of the meal. The best winegrowers of Roussillon figure prominently on the wine list.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Provençal. This iconic Luberon restaurant is run by a talented team headed up by chef Noël Bérard. His modernised take on Provençal cuisine finds joyful expression in two tasting menus, one of which focuses on plants. High-quality ingredients (including veal from Gordes, trout from the River Sorgue, oysters from the Camargue, pork from Monteux etc), bold sauces and jus and a delicate style. There is a magnificent terrace from which you can admire the sunset. Also of note in this enchanting setting in the heart of Provence is the wood-fired cooking at La Bergerie, and of course the comfortable guestrooms and suites.

1 Star • Provençal. Chef Mathias Dandine (one Michelin star at La Magdeleine) fell in love with this old Provençal farmhouse (or bastide) in the village centre. Whether you are dining outside on the terrace shaded by plane trees, or in the elegant, contemporary space done out in Mediterranean style, you are served Provençal cuisine inspired by the famous cookery book of chef Jean-Baptiste Reboul (1897). Top-notch local ingredients are fresh and seasonal, meticulously cooked to perfection, with tasty sauces and precise seasonings: chef Guillaume Lemelle regales us, for example, with grilled yellowtail, fried artichoke with preserved lemon, artichoke agnolotti, and a barigoule jus with olive oil. Guestrooms for overnight stays.

1 Star (Green Star) • Mediterranean Cuisine. In this swish handsome bastide nestled in a 4ha estate, the chef showcases seasonal Mediterranean cuisine, featuring vegetables from the kitchen garden and charcoal-grilled dishes. From the aperitif on, carefully prepared vegetables set the tone: au naturel state/unadorned?, in a light tempura or pickled. Delicate dishes such as marinated red mullet with smoky notes or braised red porgy accompanied by broad beans and Swiss chard from the garden are on point. The setting, with olive trees and a shady terrace, is the quintessence of a peaceful Provençal aesthetic, ideal for savouring this authentic, vegetable-forward cuisine.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In a picturesque village not far from the Pont-du-Gard, Denis Martin (ex The Marcel) and his wife Joana have set up shop in a handsome limestone building. The chef crafts spot-on, expressive dishes, in which lamb from Les Baux, Mediterranean seabass and the rich Occitan terroir take centre stage – to be savoured on the terrace or in the bright interior. A champion of regional produce, the chef crafts a festival of spot-on, well-balanced dishes. The weekday lunchtime menu is excellent value for money. Why not stay overnight in one of the attractive guestrooms and enjoy the swimming pool? In a nutshell: the good life!

1 Star • Provençal. This imposing Provençal farmstead is steeped in the unmistakable balmy scent of the South of France: think thyme, savory, lavender… A family business for generations, chef Jany Gleize and his daughter Jane embody a vision of Provençal cuisine that is tasty and indulgent, by way of several set menus. Stay over in one of the spacious guestrooms decorated with period furnishings.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. The view over the valley and the surrounding Ardèche hillsides, a beautiful timber structure, chestnut wood tables, an indoor aromatic herb garden and the etymology of the name bòria ("small Cévennes farm" in Ardèche dialect) - the stage is set! Assisted by a high-flying team whose wholehearted commitment to the house ethos is beyond doubt, chef Florian Descours pays tribute to his rural roots with fresh, local produce: beef from Privas, pork from Beaulieu, snails from the Eyrieux valley and trout from Labatie-d'Andaure). A treat from beginning to end, from the grilled baby gem lettuce and Villevocance pigeon with watermelon and sorel to the millefeuille of garden fruit and a delicate verbena-flavoured cream, without forgetting the fantastic cheese board. Hard to beat!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. In the lower part of Valence, this hidden gem is the contemporary lair of Japanese chef Masashi Ijichi. He crafts a fine, delicate repertory, underscored by a succulent encounter between the Drôme region and inspired flashes of Asia. A few examples: pumpkin soup with sea urchin, avocado and prawn toast and an ethereal dessert of oranges, vanilla and walnuts. Outstanding wine list including a superb selection of northern Côtes du Rhône wines.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the stylish Logis de la Chabotterie, a historic stately home in deepest Vendée, 2015 MOF chef, Benjamin Patissier, rolls out a polished, creative score that elegantly and savvily shines the spotlight on local produce. In an interior that mingles rustic charm with contemporary details, he delights our tastebuds with signatures such as flame-seared mackerel from Sables d’Olonne and confit of fennel, or Vendée saddle of lamb in a bread crust, escorted by roast artichoke and delicate tarragon-perfumed gravy. The meal finishes on a high note thanks to the talents of pastry chef, Élie Bremont, who conjures up an unforgettable extravaganza on a strawberry theme, delicately underscored by rosemary and double cream laced in Sicilian pistachio. Authentic and refined fine dining, further enhanced by the warm welcome of Audrey Patissier who seamlessly manages the front of house, while also plying you with insightful wine tips.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. The restaurant of Château Saint Jean, which impresses first by its stunning location in a former chapel, sports a surprising, highly successful marriage of periods, like that of the nave, clad in copper lacework panels for an almost snug feel. The food is of the same ilk and chef Olivier Valade more than demonstrates that his star-studded background (Côte d’Or at Saulieu, Hélène Darroze) owes nothing to chance! His surgical craftsmanship showcases seasonal premium produce and overflows with character: delicately smoked brill and truffle-flavoured blanquette; squab with wild mushrooms and walnut-laced jus. Slick, seamless service – 10 out of 10!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Elegance reigns in this former porcelain manufacturer's house on the doorstep of Limoges. Works of art, Bernardaud tableware and a hushed atmosphere combine to create a refined experience. In the kitchen, Gilles Dudognon and his son Henri work together to cook up dishes using premium ingredients from the property's vegetable garden and producers in the region. The appealing menu features classics such as pithiviers and lamprey à la bordelaise, alongside more contemporary suggestions such as seared langoustines, cul noir bacon and shell foam. Charming guestrooms, too.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. Eight gardeners work full-time in the kitchen garden of this restaurant, which is a pioneer in self-sufficiency. The farmhouse is surrounded by 3ha of permaculture organic vegetable gardens, orchards, beehives and even a tropical greenhouse – the only one of its kind in a restaurant in France; coffee, bananas and papaya grow here... Diners can take a look at these areas around the property before or after eating! Holding the reins in this paradise of home-grown food, chef Armand Arnal cultivates the transition from the land to the kitchen to the dishes without artifice. He still has the same appetite for a certain creative licence, sometimes with a nod to Japan. The allium chawanmushi (Japanese savoury egg custard), wild moss and green caviar, with roasted and lightly smoked peas, is utterly elegant and refined. Organic wine list. There are two set menus (without options), one of which is vegetarian.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Laurent Barberot, a chef with an impressive CV (Plaza Athénée in Paris, La Pyramide in Vienne, La Côte d'Or in Saulieu, Le Clos des Sens in Annecy), presides in this modern inn on the doorstep of Dole. His single set menu showcases the best of seasonal produce with a sprinkling of regional touches, such as smoked eel, hand-dived scallops, Bresse poultry and Jura cheeses. N.B. The fine dining restaurant is only open Friday evening to Saturday evening.

1 Star • Creative. In the upper reaches of the village, this chic hotel is home to this fine dining restaurant with an intimate style decor. Creative, within reason, the appealing seasonal set menu (available in two versions: "Dégustation" or "Potager") is a mine of great culinary ideas: Oscietra caviar, green beans with fresh thyme, vinaigrette with lobster juices; veal presented two ways: cooked rare with seaweed, and confit with savory, courgette terrine and a Crémant d'Alsace jus. Attentive service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows in the heart of the Baie des Anges Marina, you can enjoy Provençal cuisine that makes the most of the finest local catch and vegetables from nearby market gardens. Plump for a table either in the elegant modern interior, or on the pleasant terrace commanding views over the harbour.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. Chef Christophe Comes is passionate about plants! He is genuinely committed to his two vegetable gardens and his collection of citrus-fruit and olive trees (endemic varieties from which he produces his own olive oils). Plant-based notes permeate his cuisine from starter to dessert with finesse and intensity. In his medley of spiny cucumbers, white tuna sashimi and shiso, a thousand and one ways to enjoy this vegetable are showcased, as the seasonings build in intensity; sea bream is served on a fennel-infused bouillabaisse jus with wild fennel, accompanied by courgettes, basil and a garlic rouille aioli. Garden strawberries on an almond joconde sponge are topped with a strawberry smoothie and sorbet, jelly, vanilla-white chocolate ganache and a serving of sweet grass ice cream on crumble.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. Transformed into a restaurant for the Universal Exhibition of 1900, Empire, Belle Époque and Art nouveau styles culminate in the charm of a rotunda dining room with a glazed roof and a superb terrace. The business clientele comes here to savour the spirit of a bygone Paris and the ‘country’ air of the Bois de Boulogne. Georges Menut lovingly maintains the image of a “grande dame”, but modernity is ensured with the cooking of chef Frédéric Robert, whose cv includes L’Ambroisie, Le Vivarois and Lucas-Carton, and the desserts of young pastry-chef Joris Vée.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. This restaurant promises succulent traditional cuisine, made using quality ingredients, most of which come from the surrounding countryside. Fine dining takes the limelight in this former coal barn, converted into a plush, culinary haven. Following in Marc Duval's footsteps, chef Thomas Filippa is a firm fan of old-school culinary classics, although he does allow himself the occasional more modern twist: asparagus, shellfish, Noilly Prat sabayon and caviar; line-caught seabass, roast lettuce and olive oil sauce… The dining room opens onto a manicured garden.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. On the doorstep of Mâcon, this 1950s inn has retained its hunting frescoes by the Zuber manufactory and a lovingly maintained historic interior. In this distinctive setting, Didier Goiffon crafts signature cuisine that is as inventive as it is meticulous and which happily marries regional delicacies with spices. You will find a slate menu and ideas based on a seasonal theme, such as a 100% lobster menu. The chef’s creativity extends as far as the signature dessert, which pairs poire tapée (dried pear) with morels and vin jaune Savagnin, embodying the house character and flair. Cosy rooms for overnight stays.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This residence in Lyons-la-Forêt, which opened in 1610, was first a coaching inn before accommodating La Licorne Royale in its refined Napoleonic interior. Christophe Poirier's cuisine showcases top-quality local produce, vegetables from an organic market gardener and meat from farm-raised animals. Precise cooking, punchy sauces: tangy beetroot vinaigrette with trout, orange butter with scallops, concentrated truffle meat jus. Pleasant terrace overlooking the garden and elegant guestrooms to prolong the experience.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Patrick Gauthier's restaurant, the shape of which calls to mind the bow of an ocean liner, overlooks the River Yonne at the tip of a small island. Diners forget the town around them in an interior whose design is inspired by the chef's many trips to Scandinavia and Asia. A "cook first and foremost" and highly passionate about his work, he continues to personally present the day's specials and suggestions to guests. A great fan of markets and fish and seafood, he creates authentic, spirited cuisine that is full of flavour: green asparagus from Mallemort, pan-fried foie gras, duck jus; meticulously cooked John Dory, citrus beurre blanc; sweetbreads from Corrèze, orzo. Plus, not just one but four cheese trolleys and an excellent wine list take the meal to the next level!

1 Star • Mediterranean Cuisine. Mathias Dandine made his childhood dream come true when he became chef at this handsome 18C mansion with a terrace shaded by mature plane trees, situated far from the noise of the city. Here, his cuisine is in perfect harmony with the setting, where he celebrates Provence with breathtaking skill. His unfussy, pared-down Mediterranean cuisine shuns unnecessary frills, with no particular effort made to impress foodies. Yet behind the apparent simplicity, the chef’s recipes demonstrate real mastery in cooking methods, textures and balance of flavours. In fine weather, make sure you take a seat on the terrace shaded by Mediterranean trees.

1 Star • Creative. Established in a handsome mansion, abutting the Opera House and just behind one of France’s most beautiful squares, chef Charles Coulombeau and his wife Roxane are a firm fixture of Nancy’s culinary scene. After stints at Les Prés d’Eugénie and Lameloise, Charles deftly crafts modern cuisine, enhanced by creative flourishes and nods to Japan, where he worked for a time. Citrus, seaweed and Asian notes are perfectly paired with premium ingredients such as ikejime Vosges Arctic Char or plump Bresse chicken. Knockout terrace overlooking the park.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Here in the centre of the village, this duo, whose enthusiasm is infectious, have set up shop in a half-timbered building that sports the Basque Country's characteristic red and white. It was once a Basque pelota ground (the reception still has the old ticket windows and a glass door opening onto the trinquet). Chef Nicolas Montceau and his pastry chef partner Julien Bonnal, who is also in charge of plating up the dishes, swear by local produce. Their multi-course surprise tasting menu in several sequences is a delight, rife with harmonious combinations of flavours, delicious jus and sauces, and an abundance of creativity. Don't hesitate to ask for a table facing the open kitchen so you can enjoy the show! Comfortable guestrooms.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the Quartier des Antiquaires, this listed 17C building, its façade adorned with caryatids, is now in the hands of Vincent and Marie-Cécile Gomis, who work together to produce refined, contemporary cuisine showcasing judicious flavour combinations. Top-quality ingredients, perfectly controlled temperatures and cuissons, and precise, on-point seasoning – it's flawless! Every element is in its place, the result of a natural and simple approach that invariably works its magic, particularly in the seafood dishes. The savvy, recurring use of sweet spices, which are subtly handled, as well as citrus fruits for zestiness, is noteworthy. Pleasant terrace to the rear.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The former home of French pop singer, Pierre Vassiliu, who was N°1 in the hit parade in 1973, is now devoted to singing the praises of amberjack, sautéed girolles and a woody-scented sabayon or figs and fig leaves, served raw, in a chutney and in a sorbet. The culinary score is the work of chef Julien Razemon from les Landes, who honed his skills with the Coussau family. Julien plays a refined, gourmet melody, with the bonus of a view of the Gers hillsides or the Pyrenees (in fine weather) for some tables. Consummate technique, lashings of creativity and a knockout lineup of ingredients, all of which at eater friendly prices: what more could we want?

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the local dialect, ‘marander’ means ‘go and eat’. On the Tournus road, this handsome house, built out of Burgundy stone and set in a landscaped garden, is definitely worth a gourmet halt before a good night’s sleep. The owners, Élisabeth and Philippe Michel, are clearly determined to bequeath the tradition of hospitality and the love of premium produce to their team in this elegantly contemporary house that feels like a home. In the kitchen, the chef consummately and delicately curates striking dishes rich in generosity. The stonking choice of Burgundy wines and the knock-out patio add the final flourish to this excellent establishment.

1 Star • Creative. A globetrotter and keen ornithologist, (with birds fluttering freely in his garden,) Éric Guérin has invented a universe that is uniquely his own. On an island ringed by circular canals, in the heart of the Brière Regional Nature Park, he has immersed himself in his terroir, all the better to serve up his own superb take on it. Indeed, the chef is an artist at heart, whose first passion is "creating". It is in the kitchen that he has found "his mode of expression", and for that we are grateful to him! Using first-class ingredients, he crafts appealing "natural" dishes that are rife with personality, delicacy, freshness – at times his cooking even borders on the poetic. The charm of the location – not least the "exotic" guestrooms for those who wish to extend their stay – and the warm, efficient welcome of the youthful and enthusiastic team add the finishing touch!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. On the edge of the Munster Valley, La Nouvelle Auberge ("New Inn") is a lovingly maintained former coaching inn. The regional-style bistro on the ground floor serves up delicious lunch options during the week. The fine dining restaurant occupies a lovely space on the first floor with exposed timberwork. Bernard Leray, who hails from Rennes in Brittany, has taken to Alsace like a duck to water. After honing his skills at Bernard Loiseau, Leray puts a delicate new spin on local produce, each dish demonstrates his painstaking work and consummate technique – medallion of pike-perch, medley of salsify and endives, creamy broth with black truffle.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The restaurant of the emblematic Hôtel Martinez, luxurious realm of the stars during the Cannes Film Festival, is a vibrant tribute to cinema, one of chef Jean Imbert's passions. With wood panelling that wouldn't be out of place on a yacht in the golden age of Hollywood, the decor is overflowing with authentic film props and posters. The menu is written like a screenplay, illustrated with storyboards. The sea and Provence are the two stars of the show here – they provide ingredients that feature in dishes that never fail to pique the interest: wild gamberoni from the Gulf of Genoa, mango and kumquat sauce vierge; barbecued and glazed John Dory, rocket pesto, shellfish cooked in a sealed casserole pot and local vegetables; vanilla palmier made to order. Lights, camera, action!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Nestling between vineyards, orchards and the sea, this early-20C hotel-restaurant, the epitome of special occasion decadence, reclines in a lush Mediterranean garden home to hundred-year-old palm and magnolia trees. Burgundy-born Alexandre Fabris draws much of his inspiration for three Provençal-style set menus (one vegetarian) from the estate’s cottage garden as he deftly juxtaposes textures and flavours. This alfresco restaurant, open from mid-May to late September, invites you to take a seat in the garden or beneath the pergola on the terrace.

1 Star • Creative. The first thing to strike guests in this hotel, where Zelda and F. Scott Fitzgerald's tumultuous romance played out in the 1920s, is its jaw-dropping location. It's not easy for a chef to make his mark in such a setting, but Aurélien Véquaud does just that. In a fine dining menu that, naturally, embraces the Mediterranean (think superb little tunny, semi-confit tomatoes and rocket vinaigrette), the chef's origins – the Vendée in western France – still shine through on each plate. Unpasteurised cream jazzes up the crab in the signature dish (a soft esquinado cannelloni, verbena foam and fennel), and marinière of shellfish with Oscietra caviar accompanies the sea bass. The terrace commands a breathtaking view of the sea and the mountains of the Estérel.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. This "petite maison" imbued with a genteel Provençal charm and recognisable by its yellow façade is the stomping ground of chef Éric Sapet. He elevates market ingredients like no other: mushrooms, including truffles, to which he dedicates a set menu in season, vegetables from local market gardeners, Provençal cheeses, game and also shellfish. A devoted gourmet and wine-lover, Sapet already has a solid career to his name and delivers classic Provençal cuisine rife with flavours. Be aware that the restaurant often gets fully booked.

1 Star • Creative. In the heart of Le Clos Saint Yves, this handsome 17C stone-built house (which was a major religious cabinet-making workshop until the late 19C) is the lair of Jérémie Le Calvez and his wife, Jessica, who warmly greet you with a smile. The chef’s delicate and inventive cuisine highlights the best and freshest ingredients of Brittany and reverently respects the seasons. The beautiful dining room with its exposed stonework and view of the small garden provides the perfect foil to sample this high-flying culinary show. Charming guestrooms are available, should you wish to extend your stay and explore the region. What’s not to like?

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the heart of a famous wine-growing village, a young couple from Brittany has opted to shine the spotlight on seafood to such an extent that you can almost smell the sea air. Their single set menu, whose dishes are intriguingly and poetically named, offers a choice of flawlessly fresh fish and shellfish, all of which are consummately cooked. The chef, who clearly knows his stuff, has his sights clearly focused on a single goal: taste. The wine list unsurprisingly gives the floor to Sancerre wines, and you'll hear no complaints from us. Cheerful, smiling service in an uncluttered, elegant interior.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. It may take a little getting to, but this family-run restaurant set in the countryside is a real treat! Fabrice and Clément Dallais, representing the third and fourth generations, create dishes with a modern outlook. Theirs is tasty, festive fare that is deeply rooted in the local land – for example, Racan chicken and pigeon, Géline de Touraine (heirloom poultry), offal and game, organic vegetables from market gardeners, and pike. Tuck into their surprise set menus in an immaculate contemporary setting. Remarkable wine list and judicious recommendations from the sommelier.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. For nearly 30 years, Arnaud and Cécilia Viel have been running their modern establishment with a strong personality in perfect harmony with the chef's cuisine. Here in Argentan, homage is paid to Normandy through exceptional hand-picked ingredients: local butter and unpasteurised farmhouse cream, scallops from Port-en-Bessin, lobster from Carteret, foie gras from the Pays d'Auge, sand carrots from Créances, sometimes combined with premium items such as caviar or black winter truffles. The food impresses with flawless execution and harmonious flavours. The excellent wine list is curated by Cécilia, who presides front of house with elegance and professionalism.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This restaurant is housed in a contemporary building exuding rustic charm on the banks of the Charente River and opposite the château that houses the Grand Marnier distillery. Both indoors and out on the terrace, modern decor provides the backdrop for the signature cuisine of father-and-son team Thierry and Julien Verrat. Proceedings open with sourdough bread and summer truffle butter, followed by refined bites with Japanese influences: beechwood-smoked oysters, eel chawanmushi, and chicken liver mousse with XO cognac. The mains continue in this delicate vein: foie gras with seaweed and sturgeon dashi, John Dory with Bigorre bacon and vegetable civet (stew). Straightforward, vibrant cuisine in which technique is at the service of flavour.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In his contemporary and elegant restaurant laid out around a lovely patio, Xavier Giraudet creates top-drawer modern cuisine with a focus on vegetables. The various set menus feature local and seasonal produce (sometimes even from the family vegetable garden), expertly cooked and full of flavour. In season, don't miss their exemplary rendition of hare à la royale à la Antonin Carême, a classic dish! A bravura performance.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The huge conservatory of this Rotonde commands a splendid panoramic view over Annecy Lake, sweeping diners off their feet, even before their first bite! Originally from Arcachon, Eric Prowalski adds flavours from southwest France to recipes which highlight sustainably grown local produce. This skilled craftsman deftly unfolds a repertory in which creativity never hampers the flavour, developing a delicious "dialogue" between his adopted land and his homeland. The understated interior showcases a subtle blend of warm materials such as leather and oak.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. “Montpellier the Gifted”, as the city likes to bill itself, provides the backdrop to this well-hidden restaurant on the banks of the Lez. Slightly off the beaten track, it boasts a divine riverside terrace shaded by plane trees – a refreshing haven in hot summers. This modern and sophisticated Reserve is located in an old country house, an Ali Baba’s cavern of gourmet delights, unearthed from the little-known repertory of Languedoc-Roussillon. Former second of Alain Dutournier at the Carré des Feuillants, Charles Fontès signs intelligent compositions that revolves around the ingredient. Subtle plays of textures and flavours with an overriding goal of authentic simplicity. Seabream, squid and red mullet, Camargues eels and Lucques olives feature among the appetisers – Occitania on the table!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Art meets gastronomy at 18 rue Troyon. This discreet restaurant with a modern façade is named after L'Abbaye de Thélème, a utopia conjured up by Rabelais. Rudy Langlais and his team create cuisine with plenty of personality, in which carefully selected ingredients and flavours from Japan come together in refined and delicate dishes, neatly combining French and Japanese styles. The work is meticulous, and the bill for lunch remains reasonable. Good recommendations from the sommelier.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Originally from Cuzieu, which is a mere 2km away, Antoine Bergeron is very much a local boy. Ambitious and passionate about his work, he takes you on a surprise fine dining journey that subtly, creatively and joyfully showcases ingredients from hand-picked suppliers. Comfortably seated in the bright, contemporary dining room, you will enjoy a culinary tour of the region and the local markets. For example, sweetbread and cauliflower, capers and pike roe; fillet of Aubrac wagyu beef, ceps and onions; pears and Piedmont hazelnuts and a citrus fruit crème, inspired by a Paris-Brest pastry. Food that nurtures the soul, with special mention for the sauces and stellar craftsmanship.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Set among flower gardens and century-old trees, this fully restored 16C Breton estate has been enhanced by an elegant contemporary extension. In this refined setting, chef Olivier Samson (formerly of La Gourmandière - La Table d'Olivier) showcases his talent. His refined contemporary cuisine is deeply rooted in the local terroir and presented in the form of tasting menus. Celtic produce is handled with precision: Breton abalone with spinach and a pork jus; sole from small-boat fishing with asparagus and kumquat; roast pigeon with cocoa and pigeon leg bonbon. In dish after dish, buckwheat, sea fennel and buttermilk underscore the Breton identity of this gourmet experience.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This Franco-Japanese gourmet establishment is on the first floor of a crêperie: welcome to the world of Bertrand Larcher. A champion of buckwheat and Brittany’s culture, Bertrand started by opening pancake houses in Japan, before returning to France to pursue his passion for food. Now in a dining room overlooking the bay of Mont Saint Michel, chef Fumio Kudaka mixes Brittany’s produce with Japanese techniques and seasonings. The lobster is served with free-range poultry and soba noodles; Challans duck is simply roasted and enhanced by a negi miso sauce; the apple and black sesame tart is paired with cinnamon ice cream and a caramel of shiokoji. Top-notch ingredients, razor-sharp precision, finely judged seasonings and lashings of delicacy depict this happy marriage between east and west.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the heart of a genuine Alpine village dominated by the Miage peaks, a former bakery has morphed into an understated luxe chalet that is home to a swish, sleek mountain restaurant decked out in wood, stone and velvet with an open kitchen. A plush, muted vibe, cosy bar, glazed cellars, a tearoom and dining for forty. The chef celebrates local produce – fish from Lake Geneva, Douvaine duck, in a single set menu of seasonal inspiration. Spot-on, indulgent and consummately crafted cuisine. Just the ticket for high-flying gastronomy overlooking the “roof of Europe”. Alfresco dining with a view in summertime.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The first floor of this house overlooking the port sets the scene for many a fine meal. After a remarkable career (Coquillage at Cancale, La Pyramide – Patrick Henriroux at Vienne and the K2 at Courchevel), chef Samuel Selosse now gives free rein to his creativity. Firmly rooted in the zeitgeist and always exquisitely presented, his cooking showcases first-rate ingredients, be they fish or vegetables, giving rise to delicacies such as cauliflower in citrus fruits and fire roasted cuttlefish, brill from small boats, asparagus and seaweed-flavoured hollandaise sauce or a pine-flavoured creamy millefeuille. His sommelière wife runs the dining room with the same drive and sense of purpose.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Aurélien Largeau is now bringing his culinary creations to life on premises that used to accommodate Sillon, having brightened up the intimate setting of this restaurant a stone's throw from the ocean. The chef from La Rochelle lets Atlantic fish and seafood take centre stage, leaving meat the supporting role. A veritable maritime voyage, his multi-course set menu gives pride of place to Breton shellfish, wild seaweed and even traditional recipes – while also referencing the Basque Country. Exceptional ingredients (but also humble sardines) are adorned with intense jus (the red mullet is a case in point), and textures are juxtaposed (as with the lobster). Even the desserts acknowledge the sea, cleverly combining sweet and briny notes (pear and sea fennel jus). A precise, lively cuisine that moves to the rhythm of the tides. Alongside him, Mathilde Fesneau brilliantly orchestrates proceedings front of house.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. Thomas Collomb is at the head of an outstanding table d’hôtes in Gevrey-Chambertin, in which nothing is left to chance! Flawless ingredients, most of which from organic, meticulously selected suppliers, recognisable, artfully presented dishes which unfold during a tasting menu rich in surprises and a stylish smart rustic interior. But there is more to come! The wine list is out of this world (well, this is the region!) and the service is professional and attentive, without being oppressive. The pinnacle of fine dining.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. At the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, a magnificent example of neo-Classical architecture, even dining is theatrical. Chef Etchebest's 12 guests share the same large table in a vaulted cellar, where they are privy to the behind-the-scenes workings of a restaurant, amid introductions to the dishes and the to and fro of the waitstaff. Everything here is a surprise: from the menu to the wine and food pairings, down to the cutlery that you choose yourself. The same spirit is to be found in the chef's dishes, which are unabashedly original and resolved to strike that harmony of flavours. The technique is impeccable (the foie gras des Landes fried and smoked in duck jus with orange!), plus you can enjoy the food while getting to know your neighbours at the table. Even when Philippe Etchebest is absent, he is still there – via video conference with the guests before the meal starts! An experience, truly.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. At Olivier’s Table, Pierre is in the kitchen, while his partner, Fanny, a talented pastry chef, oversees the front-of-house. Normandy-born Pierre has enthusiastically embraced Corrèze, his land of adoption, in this town centre stone house, whose modern furnishings and designer lighting are the epitome of elegant. The repertory, in tune with the zeitgeist and at bargain prices, ticks all the boxes: enticing, polished and colourful. Examples include poached oysters, marinated seabass with citrus fruit and a lemon-vodka sorbet; veal scallop and sweetbread, ravioles of chanterelle mushrooms and black garlic followed by a chocolate, pecan nut, clementine and citrus fruit sorbet extravaganza to finish. It is well worth taking the time to do justice to such a spread!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. On a square in the historic centre, chef Christophe Ducros is thriving in a new stylish setting. The chef crafts balanced, unequivocal dishes of pure-bred southern inspiration and heritage. Examples include his famous Costières squab, roasted whole; breast of free-range poultry, corn tartlet and bigarade sauce; vacherin-style strawberries, whipped vanilla cream and verjuice. The overriding coherence is crystal clear. Savour this gourmet escapade to the fill, seated on the rooftop terrace overlooking the cathedral.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This quintessential country restaurant, tucked away in a picturesque village in the heart of the Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards, is the brainchild of a friendly, industrious couple. He scours the local markets for fine produce, which he unveils in cleverly crafted dishes. For example, langoustines from Brittany with celtuce and the first tomatoes, frogs’ legs poached and deep-fried in Japanese breadcrumbs, or Bresse chicken with pattypan squash, rainbow chard and heirloom carrots… The food is naturally enough paired with a fine selection of Burgundy and Beaujolais. The set menu changes weekly – all the more reason to return regularly!

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine, Creative. Opposite Limère golf course, Christophe Hay's second establishment sports a contemporary interior inspired by nature and the forest, the chef's main muses, together with vegetables from his garden. The huge open kitchen is in the hands of chef Loïs Bée, whose highly personal score, underpinned by confident technique, is nonetheless perfectly in tune with the house ethos. The delicate, seasonal cuisine is eco-conscious and favours short supply chains and game in season. Think Sologne trout, cucumber, verbena and tapioca; fillet and andouille of ostrich, parsley-flavoured viennoise, wild garlic, potatoes and shallots; tart of morels, white pudding, cockscomb, pearl onions, hazelnuts. Each dish is a masterpiece of spot-on craftsmanship and creativity. Over 600 labels comprise the first-class wine cellar. Particularly attentive service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. With the arrival of Italian chef Massimiliano Sena (originally from Sorrento), armed with his impressive CV, this noble and elegant Grand Siècle-style residence has entered a modern culinary era that bodes well. Local and seasonal ingredients take pride of place, and the chef's Italian roots make themselves felt in a delicate and subtle manner. There's no showboating or recourse to culinary techniques just for the sake of it; the confident expertise and harmoniously preserved marriages of flavours allow diners to fully appreciate the slow-cooked egg with its airy chanterelle mousse, or the cod with courgette, raspberry and black garlic. Terrific wine list with over 700 wines. There is a pleasant view of the formal garden and canal from the glass-roofed dining area.

1 Star • Creative. Close to Saint-Jean-de-Luz and the coast, this old Basque farmhouse has an elegant contemporary wing overlooking the Rhune (Larrun) mountain and the countryside. It is here in the very heart of the Basque Country that Cédric Béchade welcomes you in the style of a true 21st-century innkeeper. This creative chef (who trained at the Hôtel du Palais in Biarritz, then worked in the kitchens of the Plaza Athénée alongside Jean-François Piège) uses top-notch ingredients sourced from the terroir and prepared with all due care – think squid, bluefin tuna, Ibaiama pork, yuzu from Ahyerre. The terrace is very popular on sunny days, as are the guestrooms to extend your stay. N.B. A bistronomy menu is available for lunch at Café Basque.

1 Star • Creative. How delightful it is to settle in at your table in this stylish but snug space, in which untreated and premium materials such as marble and oak have been used to create an authentic and timeless decor. At the fine dining restaurant, young chef Alexandre Baule (originally from Isère) brings vegetables to the fore in his bid to elevate Savoie produce. Also of note are the food and cocktail pairings (including alcohol-free options) devised by a talented barman. The bistro, open every day for dinner, serves up a fine regional repertoire. Comfortable guestrooms fitted out in chalets await, should you wish to extend the experience.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This knockout location overlooking Bourget Lake provides the perfect foil to spot-on, polished cuisine rich in gutsy flavours with a penchant for local country produce: cottage garden veg, trout, fera, farm-reared veal… Dishes that pack a punch and which showcase a savvy mix of contrasting textures. The view from the terrace over the lake and Mont du Chat is out of this world.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This 18C château is set in listed grounds with many species of trees, including an Atlas cedar planted by the late Queen Mother. The restaurant has taken up abode in plush sitting rooms on the first floor, while in summer, meals are served on the monumental terrace. The son of farmers from the Loire region, Marc Fontanne (formerly Le Prieuré at Villeneuve-lès-Avignon) started learning the ropes from his brother, a butcher and charcutier, at a young age. He serves three tasting menus, one of which is entirely vegetarian. Tempura and roasted dwarf broccoli with a red onion and basil jus; flame-licked tomato, Lucca olives, iced tomato; raviole of marjoram-laced artichokes, hazelnuts, parmesan and vanilla emulsion. Fresh local ingredients with playful, graphic plating and a subtle interplay of bitter, sweet and aniseed flavours (like fennel).

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This fine dining establishment is part of a luxurious hotel, which feels like a plush chalet. On the edge of the famous ski run, Face de Bellevarde, the restaurant is chic and elegant with a wealth of wood, exposed stone and mirrors. Passionate about his craft, conscientious chef Antoine Gras shows the utmost respect for the ingredients. These he showcases in flavoursome dishes that don't mess around. The combinations are spot on: just-seared langoustine, julienne vegetables, chilled vinaigrette with grated carrots; whitefish from Lake Geneva, sorrel, silky gourd purée with juniper berries. The enthusiasm of the youthful front-of-house team is contagious, and that also goes for the sommelier, an ambassador of Savoie wines. Le Coin Savoyard and La Rôtisserie are the hotel's more laid-back eateries.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This restaurant near Angers, in the heart of the Coteaux-du-Layon vineyards, is well worth your attention. It is the haunt of talented David Guitton, who hails from Loire Atlantique and who has trained under top chefs all over the world from the United States and Britain to Monaco. There is no à la carte menu here, but a voluntarily concise offering that reverently respects the seasons. David sources his ingredients from small, local producers, rustling up dishes that err towards minimalist so that the flavour can take centre stage. Regional wines, including the estate’s organic production, take pride of place on the wine list.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. Nicolas and Solenne Conraux are the third generation at the head of this establishment, a pioneer in the field of sustainable development and cookery. Local produce reigns supreme in this gourmet map of Finistère: oysters, lobster, abalone, but also seaweed, vegetables and even the 100% Brittany cheeses. Just as Brittany takes the limelight in the plate, it is also celebrated in the décor and the tableware which is the work of local craftspeople. What’s more, the service team is always happy to explain the ingredients and different fermentation and maceration techniques used by the kitchen staff. The bread (baked in the chef’s own bakery) is fiendishly delicious, as are the various Made in Brittany butters (seaweed, fleur de sel, etc). The wine list errs towards small, organic wineries.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Corsican. Murtoli defies classification in the usual tourist terms. Poised between the sea and the hills, this huge property accommodates overnight guests in the height of rural luxury in converted sheepfolds or villas with private swimming pools – here, modernity meets the charm of traditional Corsican architecture. Whether you opt for the short à la carte menu or the tasting menu, the food is a splendid tribute to the finest Corsican produce, most of which – vegetables, cheeses, eggs, honey, veal, lamb and olive oil – comes from the estate. Traditional country fare is given a subtle modern spin and carefully plated: Bonifacio-style aubergine, Sartène-style courgette, colourful and striking aziminu (Corsican soup), Bonifacio-style capon. Lovely patio shaded by olive trees and attentive front-of-house team.

1 Star • Mediterranean Cuisine. Nans Gaillard, a local lad and a demanding chef, dreamt of opening his own restaurant in La Ciotat where he was born. After growing up in Brittany and his first steps as a chef with some impressive stints in Paris, with Joël Robuchon among others, he has made his childhood dream come true in this inn dating from the interwar period, perched on the cliffs facing the sea, with a knockout terrace and tall pine trees. In this magical setting, he pays tribute to regional produce as he subtly tweaks pedigree Gallic traditions: medley of heirloom tomatoes, fresh goat’s cheese and basil; John Dory in a light aioli sauce, fennel, beetroot, scallion and fish soup; a crunchy extravaganza of fresh and confit raspberries in vinegar, diplomate crème and iced parfait…

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The fourth generation is at the helm of this family business, established in a splendid 18C edifice surrounded by grounds, which was once the holiday home of the bishops of Lyon. The inventive food is the consummate work of a chef who has had a Michelin star since 1993 and who became a MOF in 1997. Top quality regional produce, surgically precise craftsmanship in a classical vein and the occasional more modern technique depict the culinary ethos. This welcoming scene provides the backdrop to dishes such as a soup of frog’s legs with mushrooms and wild garlic, Grenoble-style arctic char, slowly baked in its juices, risotto of soft wheat and beurre noisette.

1 Star • Mediterranean Cuisine. Le Mas de Pierre, a luxurious hotel in immaculate surroundings, boasts a large ornamental garden, olive trees and a vegetable garden. Comfortably seated in the conservatory, which can be fully opened up and is set amid greenery, diners can enjoy an elegant setting and peaceful atmosphere... and contemporary, colourful, healthy and light cuisine. Sprinkled with flowers and aromatic plants from the garden, the unique menu reveals a delightful culinary personality, natural and very plant-based. The presentation is refined, and a lot of thought has gone into the way the menu unfolds. At Dolce Provenza, tuck into traditional Provençal and Italian cuisine in a friendly, bistro atmosphere.

1 Star • Creative. Olives, which are central to Pierre Reboul’s work, inspired both the low-key, natural interior of his restaurant and his cuisine steeped in creativity. In the stylish, intimate setting of the Renaissance Hotel, exclusive materials and olive-green shades set the scene. A terrace framed by two olive trees and a counter overlooking the open-plan kitchen add the final touches to the portrait. The Chef celebrates regional produce in dishes that look as good as they taste: trompe-l’oeil olives explode in the mouth, a delicate, inventive trilogy on a Mediterranean shrimp theme or a subtle, crunchy courgette flower stuffed with langoustine. Polished and inventive.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This handsome 17C mansion was where Charles Gounod played the first bars of his opera, Mireille, to Frédéric Mistral, author of the poem that inspired the libretto. In a flavoursome echo of this prestigious past, the venue’s modern-day chef orchestrates a gourmet score, inspired in this case by the regional pantry: fish from Grau-du-Roi, trout from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Mont Ventoux pork and lamb from la Crau… The menu, packed in Provençal melodies, is served at a communal table d’hôtes against a backdrop of bare stone walls that set a friendly, cosy tone. The rooftop terrace, which commands views over the village’s skyline, unveils a more casual culinary lineup.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Mediterranean Cuisine. Raised in Marseille, Xavier Mathieu is a true-blue Provençal lad. He was introduced to the world of haute cuisine by master chef, Roger Vergé, a family friend. He went on to complete his apprenticeship with Joël Robuchon in Paris, before returning to the splendid family home nestling in the Luberon scrubland. The chef, who sports a distinctive shock of white hair, breathes new life into Provençal culinary traditions, giving each dish a new twist on its original form. Tian of black olives from the garden, leg of lamb from the Alpilles cooked in warm sand of the garrigue, two-course pieds et paquets (Marseille-style mutton feet and tripe). Surprising recipes, always with a personal touch, to be sampled in the swish exclusive setting of a luxurious drystone bastide whose foundations date back to the Knights of the Order of Malta.

1 Star • Creative. The sprawling estate never fails to make an impression: a Classical 18C castle, a 19C water tower, works of art, a hotel made up of futuristic pods fixed to a central metal mast and, finally, the circular restaurant with a living roof that is reminiscent of a flying saucer that has landed in the middle of the vegetable garden. Chef Jérôme Jouadé draws on his true affinity with nature and plants to practise his art here. He also makes the most of a greenhouse, a snail pen and an orchard, and does his own wild picking. Pollack, red meat radish and wild garlic; skate wing, white asparagus from La Torche and vanilla beurre blanc; free-range poultry, carrot and squash purée, and curry bisque – his market-inspired recipes are on point. Terrific wine list, mostly organic or biodynamic.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Awarded a MICHELIN star in 2016, chef Jean-Baptiste Lavergne-Morazzani continues to delight diners in his modern and refined restaurant, nestled in the Cour des Senteurs, a stone's throw from the Palace of Versailles. The set menu, which is regularly updated, whisks you away on a meticulously devised and indulgent culinary journey – dishes include marinated langoustine on a bed of warm rice with a hint of vinegar and agastache leaves, accompanied by a delicious langoustine emulsion. At its core is seasonality and top-notch produce, which is generally organic, sourced from sustainable fishing and farming, but also from the family vegetable garden. The wine list is extensive and varied. A restaurant that has earned its reputation.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Perched atop the rocky cliffside on an enchanting peninsula between Nice and Monaco, this hotel is one of the most secluded and exclusive spots on the Côte d'Azur. Access is via a discreet gate, then a winding path that seems to draw you away from the world. Dining on the terrace here, lulled by the swaying palms of a Mediterranean garden, feels like a rare privilege. Kevin Garcia, former executive chef for Frédéric Anton at Le Jules Verne enhances the blissful experience with his homage to seafood, garden herbs and top-quality locally grown vegetables. His straightforward dishes are forthright in flavour, eschewing ostentation in favour of showcasing remarkable precision and genuine technical flair: raw bonito, sea-sourced condiments, roasted-rice cream and Oscietra caviar; gamberoni prawns, tomato and basil consommé, tarragon prawn-head jus; grilled amberjack, thorny artichoke and barigoule.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative, Modern Cuisine. In Riquewihr, Jean-Luc Brendel has built up an entire ecosystem: in addition to his fine dining restaurant, he has a modern winstub and also offers luxurious guestrooms for overnight stays. At La Table du Gourmet, in the heart of the medieval city, the chef cooks beautiful seasonal ingredients with great care and a dash of creativity, making each dish his own. His different menus showcase produce from Alsace and from his garden (tended according to the principles of permaculture) such as the delicious Petrowski turnip, served with humanely-reared veal, cooked over the embers. Two wine lists, the first dedicated to the fines wines of Alsace, and all this to be enjoyed in surroundings that combine olde worlde charm (the building dates back to the 16C) with contemporary decorative touches.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the heart of a wine-growing Jura village, opposite the town hall, the modern architecture of this restaurant is depicted by wood, glass, steel and zinc. It is run by a youthful team of associates, most of whom have been mates since high school, including chef Vivien Sonzogni and his wife, Noémie. He draws on his experience (Le Château at Germigney, Le Parc at Besançon, Caprice in Hong Kong and Scotland’s Gleneagles) to craft a contemporary score that invariably showcases local produce (snails roasted in garlic butter with foamy curd cheese; Bresse poultry, vin jaune and tarragon sauce, etc.) and the odd creative twist. Fine wine cellar including many Jura vintages.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this 1912 villa, a genuine Belle Époque period gem, the fine dining restaurant is run by chef Philippe Lagraula. He deftly blends produce from his native Landes with influences from further afield, particularly Peru, his wife's home country. The tasting menu is consummate, striking, creative and well-paced, marrying minimalism and character: squid stuffed with the first ceps of the season, squab in Armagnac with Peruvian chocolate and Aquitaine caviar. The Armagnac selection more than lived up to our expectations…

1 Star • Mediterranean Cuisine. La Terrasse steps in at lunchtime as the restaurant of Le Cheval Blanc hotel. In the shade of umbrella pines, looking out over the Bay of Saint Tropez, Arnaud Donckele and his team conjure up Mediterranean cuisine drawing on distinct Provençal influences. The premium-quality ingredients are prepared with a great sense of finesse and rigour: porcini tarte fine; lobster tail grilled in its shell, lobster roe sabayon; rabbit pie, sweetbreads and foie gras. Outstanding and wide-ranging selection of wines. The quintessence of French art de vivre…

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. At the top of the Bergerac vineyards, next to an old windmill, this beautiful and opulent establishment affords an unforgettable view. Chef Damien Fagette taps into the Périgord terroir and its produce, working with Blonde d'Aquitaine beef, foie gras and free-range Périgord chicken. His skilfully and meticulously crafted contemporary cuisine is a successful alliance of fine ingredients, accurate cooking and well-defined flavours: langoustine tartare with a spicy lemongrass shell jus and green asparagus; fillet of beef with Kalamata olives and stuffed morels; warm soufflé with Grand Marnier. A wonderful experience.

1 Star • Creative. An enthusiastic and friendly young couple, Clément Raby from Paris and Estelle Mercier from the Gard region, have succeeded in turning heads with what they call their “cuisine libre” (“free cooking”). Served in a relaxed setting, this creative, original cuisine is spot on, with recipes that really work and just the right combination of flavours. On their “blind” menus, dishes aren’t announced until after you’ve tasted them so that guests can really give their senses and tastebuds a workout!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Chef Romain Masset proposes high-precision cuisine that shines a spotlight on Corsica, while also embracing flashes of creativity and the occasional obligatory foray into mushrooms, which he has revered since his years with Jacques and Régis Marcon. His set menus, with their enticing titles, take diners on a veritable tasting tour of olive oil, langoustines, shellfish, red mullet and suckling lamb – all carefully selected ingredients, prepared with finesse and intelligence. As for the setting, it is idyllic, with an unforgettable view of the Gulf of Valinco and Propriano from the terrace.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This pretty village with a medieval church and 18C obelisk was founded in the 13C by the Counts of Champagne; in the 19C it was restored by architect Viollet-le-Duc. It is the ideal place for experienced and talented chef Nicolas Tissier (who has previously worked with Jean-François Piège and Christian Le Squer) to take over the family business. He gives free rein to his inspiration with surprise set menus packed with premium ingredients: langoustine, monkfish, sweetbreads, chanterelles, which he makes the most of in his balanced and harmonious dishes. The cheese platter, with its 50 or so types, deserves a special mention.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The contemporary interior, which makes ample use of the light and materials , is admirably paired with the delicate, seafood menu of this country house opposite the estuary. An idyllic setting to sample deftly crafted, first-rate ingredients. Chef Nicolas Adam is not content with awakening your tastebuds, he is also the proud creator of a bakery and of the Rock’n Toques festival that takes place once a year, combining music and quality street food. The glazed wine cellar boasts some 350 references.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative. We warmly recommend this gem run by a talented couple who have just crossed to the other side of the River Maine to set up shop in attractive premises done out in a contemporary style. Bearded young chef Gaëtan Morvan, who has worked his way through the ranks of Michelin-starred restaurants, serves up an atypical culinary experience in the form of a series of highly original courses that showcase ingredients from the region. Inventiveness, unexpected combinations (enhanced by spices from all over the world)… his culinary style sweeps you off your feet. Fanny Morvan provides efficient service and has excellent, environmentally friendly wines up her sleeve.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Facing the lake that was so dear to French author Lamartine, this restaurant has been setting the standard in the region since 1964. Valentin Marin anchors his cooking in this mountain and lake terrain, preparing lake fish with a particular sense of precision: Arctic char with celery and beurre blanc with pike eggs; Savoie lamb with artichoke flowers; strawberry croustillant with tarragon. The elegant contemporary decor and attentive service guarantee a romantic atmosphere.

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. Just off the Champs-Élysées, this Directoire-style private mansion never fails to leave a lasting impression. René Lasserre (d. 2006), who came to Paris as a teenager to learn the trade, raised the restaurant to the status of iconic landmark. Columns, plants and orchids, silver tableware and knick-knacks, crystal chandeliers, Chinese porcelain etc have graced the lavishly appointed dining room for over 80 years. The famous retractable roof, which bathes the tables in natural light or is opened up according to the seasons, is another feature that adds to the magic of the place. Chef Jean-Louis Nomicos tweaks the establishment's culinary heritage with a personal touch, also borrowed from his beloved Mediterranean: stuffed macaroni, black truffle, celery and duck foie gras in a light gratin; "André Malraux" squab, petits pois à la française; Carabinero prawns a la plancha, almond cream and peas with marigold; gourmet chocolate soufflé tart.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This peaceful 16C château, restored to the highest standards, is the quintessence of Drôme provençale. From the terrace overlooking the grounds and lavender fields or in the cosy dining room with its vaulted ceiling and a fire crackling in the hearth, get ready to embark on a poetic culinary voyage inspired by regional delicacies. Each dish is carefully thought out and crafted to allow the ingredients to shout their name. Delightful welcome. Book one of the lovely rooms and stay longer.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The fine dining restaurant of this charming hotel sports two plush, stylish dining rooms. You will sample a polished, appetising score in the zeitgeist, which demonstrates a distinct regional slant and showcases the chef’s craftsmanship, particularly in the realm of sauces and jus. The impressive wine list starts at very reasonable prices and features a fine selection of regional tipples. Cheerful service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Colourful, unusual recipes, impeccably cooked and crafted with first-class ingredients, including veggies from the garden: such is the enticing programme that Le 1862, the main restaurant of Les Glycines Hotel, has in store for you. This former coaching inn, located between the railway station and the River Vézère, serves market-fresh cuisine with subtle harmonies of flavours and polished sauces. The chef enhances the finest produce from the surrounding countryside – suckling lamb, saffron, foie gras and the kitchen garden harvest and diners get to sample it all in a smart fashionable venue leading onto a terrace-loggia overlooking the grounds. Slick service and first-rate wine tips from Léa Lombard, the chef’s daughter.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This restaurant's incredible decoration (inside and out) was created by painter and decorative artist François Zenner, an amateur naturalist with a passion for plants. Also passionate about his work, and very much influenced by his years with Bernard Loiseau, chef Laurent Haller is never at a loss for ideas when it comes to sharing his love of good food. He likes to revisit the great classics of French cuisine and creates surf and turf combinations. His menu, a veritable ode to the market and its often local produce (veal from Rixheim, split peas from Petit-landau…), changes every month.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The fine dining venue of this sumptuous 18C bastide champions a daring culinary ethos, depicted by provençal foundations strewn in subtle Japanese notes. Crisp, well-structured flavours and recipes that bear the stamp of a confident cook. A magical setting flanked by a drop-dead terrace set the scene for a feast of epic proportions, without forgetting an equally enticing wine list, which of course includes wines from the estate.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Relax in this stylish, trendy restaurant, nestling in the heart of a snug, arty luxury hotel that embodies the new Parisian chic. The dining room is laid out around an inner courtyard-cum-winter garden, ideal to snuggle up with a good book. This haven of genteel tranquillity is depicted by black lacquered tables, comfy armchairs, floor-to-ceiling windows and sleek white walls. The chef’s well-balanced cuisine revolves around veggies courtesy of painstakingly sourced ingredients.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This aptly named establishment (a warm welcome does await!) is an excellent option in the heart of the Haut-Doubs. For four generations, this inviting and comfortable chalet that is typical of the region has been practising the art of Jura-style hospitality. St Point Lake is across the road, Le Suchet mountain and Switzerland just beyond. Here, they put their heart and soul into providing good food that is an ode to the region. Chef Marc Faivre worked at Georges Blanc, Pierre Gagnaire and Maison Lameloise before returning to his homeland, where his fine and tasty cuisine delights diners: trout with blue cheese or absinthe, free-range chicken, morels and Jura vin jaune sauce (of course!) or roast pigeon, duck foie gras and artichoke.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this 19C château built in the brick and white stone that is typical in northern France, the spruce and welcoming decor charms with its blend of old and new: first, a cosy bar that leads on to a dining room flooded with light from the windows on two sides, and giving onto a wooded park. The à la carte menu features carefully selected ingredients and precise, flavourful cuisine, cooked to perfection. A whole lobster, shelled and roasted, is served pearly white in the middle: the tail firm and flavourful, the claws tender, with crunchy or melt-in-the-mouth vegetables, a fragrant sauce with herring roe and a rich potato mash. The turbot in a beautifully golden bread crust is served with baby spinach leaves and a creamy beurre blanc sauce. The delicious dishes are straightforward and full of personality.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Make a beeline for the iconic early-20C Grand-Hôtel du Cap Ferrat. The swish hotel, a favourite with international VIPs, stands at the tip of an exclusive peninsula overlooking the Mediterranean and hidden from view by lush gardens. You have a choice between a stunning dining room or an exquisite terrace shaded by tall Aleppo pines. At the helm of the kitchen, chef Yoric Tièche (born in Aix-en-Provence) finds his inspiration in Provence’s culinary roots, creating superb dishes out of Mediterranean produce. Highlights include red mullet lacquered in sweet harissa, served with a crunchy socca of chickpeas and a floral bouquet of aromatic herbs. The knockout desserts by pastry chef, Pierre-Jean Quinonero, are equally worth writing home about, illustrated by his mandarin and lemon tartlet, to name but one of his fiendishly appetising creations.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. On Place Carnot, not far from the Hôtel-Dieu, this restaurant with a modern façade occupies the ground floor of a picturesque old house. After stints with Robuchon and Ducasse, chef Christophe Quéant crafts modern, seasonal cuisine based on traditional textbook foundations. His top-quality ingredients are transformed into spot-on, straightforward dishes, blessedly free of fancy frills. The contemporary-style dining room, which sports a beige colour scheme and exposed stonework, is the perfect foil for delicious dishes such as sole fillets with mushrooms and tender leaves, or the Madagascan vanilla soufflé, crème brûlée style…

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Between the départements of Drôme and Ardèche, this restaurant named after Roman senator Alethius has a distinctly Provençal air about it. The villa is arranged around a square courtyard, a gorgeous verdant patio where you can dine in fine weather. After working for Jean-Michel Lorain at La Côte Saint-Jacques, Olivier Samin occupied the post of sous-chef for Anne-Sophie Pic for a long time. He delivers fresh cuisine that reflects the seasons and market availability (eg regional fruit and vegetables, escargots from Helix Eyrieux, local cheeses), and he also has a tremendous sense of balance: precise cooking and meticulously plated creations.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This restaurant is set in an authentic stone building in the heart of the picturesque winegrowing village of Sauternes. Chef Yoann Amado, who trained with Eric Frechon (Bristol, Paris) and at Maison Darroze (Langon), crafts a virtuoso score, combining finesse, audacity and consummate skill. Inspired pastry chef, Juliette Bonnard, turns out fresh, balanced desserts. Tartare of beef and oysters pepped up with horseradish and puffed rice; squab breasts grilled over dry grape vines and Devil’s sauce; feather-light Guanaja chocolate soufflé and armagnac-laced sorbet: each dish shines the spotlight on the ingredient with flair and delicacy. Attentive service, top-quality wines from the estate and a terrace overlooking the vineyards and the castle: casual, yet plush at the same time.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the pretty wine-growing village of Marlenheim, this former posthouse, now a fine dining institution, comprises a cluster of picturesque buildings set around a paved inner courtyard and a well-groomed garden. The impressively rendered cooking is both delicate and eclectic, without forgetting some of the classics that contributed to the establishment’s reputation: white asparagus from Alsace in puff pastry with a hollandaise sauce, raviole of smoked foie gras and a gutsy truffle-flavoured jus, or the great grandfather’s, Paul Wagner vol-au-vent… The epitome of tradition!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This luxurious hotel with a cosy, elegant interior sporting thick pile carpeting, coffered ceilings, immaculate-white designer seats and modern tables with smoked glass tops is emblematic of the resort. Chef and Meilleur Ouvrier de France Stéphane Buron, assisted by his son Antonin, devises a selection of set menus based on three themes: the chef's childhood memories, the Savoie terroir and travels in Japan. The ingredients are of the highest quality and the sauces are beautifully complex. Other highlights include the trolley decked with fine mountain cheese, the charming service and extensive wine list.

1 Star • Creative. This institution lives on under the stewardship of a young couple who came here from La Mirande (Avignon): chef Yoan Delorme and head waiter Cellia Baudelier. The chef dreams up tasty, precise and imaginative dishes, such as tartlet in the style of a pissaladière with its anchovy pieces, bacon and onion mousse, and a fresh salad of green beans, chard, chervil, tarragon and coriander, or pig's knuckle and a salad of grilled corn with lemon, fermented mustard seeds, preserved lemon paste and creamy polenta. This is of course a success story that goes hand in hand with respect for the seasons and an affinity with the best producers, both locally and beyond (the fish comes from the Mediterranean).

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Le Negresco regally occupies its seafront location on Nice’s iconic Promenade des Anglais. "MOF" 2015, Virginie Basselot, is at the helm of its fine dining restaurant, Le Chantecler. In this swanky setting, the Normandy-born chef makes no secret of her ambition to craft a creative, modern score using first-class ingredients, cherry-picked from local artisans with whom she has forged strong ties. Each dish tells a story of purity and simplicity, illustrated by Mediterranean monkfish in a lemon balm and Var lemon-laced butter, or red mullet with combava-flavoured cabbage purée and a seasoning made out of the liver. Slick, swish service.

1 Star • Creative. Born in Beaune, Rudy Villien first fell in the love with Le Charlemagne during an internship, so he and his partner, Léa Matéos, leapt at the opportunity to take over this eatery in the heart of the Corton-Charlemagne vineyard. The serene, contemporary interior provides the perfect foil to sample dishes that waver between France and further afield (often Japan) with a personal spin: furikake and caviar aperitif snacks, crab and yuzu kosho smoked tomato, croaker in kaffir lime… The produce comes from a cottage garden, bee hives and cherry-picked suppliers. A creative score that is flanked by a suitably awesome wine list against a backdrop of rolling vineyards.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. After many years as a MICHELIN-starred chef in his restaurant near Poitiers, Richard Toix has found in the heights of Porticcio an ideal setting for his delicate, flavoursome cuisine. With a sure hand and impeccable taste, he delivers cosmopolitan cuisine, blending influences from Corsica and the French mainland, as well as from stints in Asia, which have nourished his imagination and his palette. His cuisine is particularly attuned to flavours, a case in point being the apricot, tomato, anchovy starter, or the delicious dessert of honey and Brocciu cheese, an ode to the "Island of Beauty". The terrace commands a superb view of the Gulf of Ajaccio and the Îles Sanguinaires.

1 Star • Creative. Vincent Deforce is a fan of the island of Mauritius, from whence he brings back ideas, ingredients and spices that he cleverly mixes with Savoie produce, creating inventive, attractive dishes. Rich in colour, Savoie saffron rubs shoulders with island chilis, marlin and octopus are mixed with sarrazin crozets (local pasta) and zander from Lake Geneva, without forgetting the delicious tartiflette of sweet potatoes and slow-roasted pork – unforgettable!

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. Nestling at the foot of a château that is famous for having welcomed Madame de Sévigné as a regular patron, this restaurant is the perfect embodiment of Provence's twin traditions of hospitality and good food: olive oil from Nyons, guinea fowl and diced vegetables from the Drôme are judiciously showcased by chef Benjamin Reilhes in the form of three tasting menus comprising several courses. One of the set menus draws entirely on plants. This restaurant is an ode to the Mediterranean's fine ingredients and Rhône Valley wines. Pastry chef Cédric Perret, meanwhile, creates desserts in harmony with the seasons, often setting them off with an original and striking flourish.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. In a peaceful hamlet at an altitude of 600m and occupying a former 15C stronghold, the cosy, warm interior is depicted by stone walls and picture windows overlooking the Belledonne mountains. You are greeted by five immaculately laid round tables in a room bathed in light, ready for an encounter between nature and good food. Pierre Troccaz signs a carefully curated, inventive score, mingling local produce, aromatic herbs from the garden and a few well-chosen exotic notes, embodied by blue lobster flanked by a frothy espuma of Beaufort cheese and fragrant confit tomatoes. Regional specialties such as caïon (pork) in wild garlic and a crunchy-melt-in-the-mouth stuffing are emblematic of the chef’s passion and enthusiasm. His wife, Éloïse, warmly and seamlessly pampers diners. Pleasant guestrooms for overnight stays.

1 Star • Creative, Modern Cuisine. Built on the ruins of a monastery hermitage in the heart of Provençale Drôme, this proud homestead first woos us with its bare stone walls, vaulted ceilings, vintage furnishings and patio. The cuisine celebrates regional and Mediterranean produce thanks to spot-on recipes: accurate, precise cooking, flavoursome, balanced recipes, all of which in keeping with the establishment’s sustainable development ethos.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The fine dining restaurant at Château de Montcaud is headed up by a chef with international experience, the talented Matthieu Hervé. A constantly updated surprise set menu offers a succession of beautiful, meticulously prepared dishes: blue crab, jellied langoustine consommé; John Dory, romesco sauce, rock fish soup (a dish bursting with sunshine); fillet of veal in a crust of fresh herbs, cream of chanterelle mushrooms and espuma of hay (a dish embellished with magnificent sauces). The intimate setting of a delightful courtyard covered with Virginia creeper accommodates only six or seven tables, ensuring a first-rate experience.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The faham is an orchid native to the island of Réunion, famous for its subtle almond scent. Kelly Rangama (2017 Top Chef contestant) chose this flower to symbolise her civil and culinary union with pastry chef Jérôme Devreese and their joint creation: this sleek, elegant restaurant tucked away in the Batignolles district. Here the chef rolls out a culinary patchwork that abounds in vibrancy and delicacy, spicy but always subtle, with an exotic edge that makes all the difference. An example: tandoori-style monkfish, followed by a wickedly decadent poached rhubarb, ginger and mango sorbet and a Fontainebleau mousse – to die for!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Tucked away in the charming resort of La Tania, a stone's throw from Courchevel, Julien Machet's restaurant invites you to enjoy a culinary experience that is full of personality. Accessible on skis, this unique place sets itself apart with its inspired and authentic cuisine in which local ingredients from Savoie, Piedmont and the Mediterranean rub shoulders with carefully selected ingredients from neighbouring regions. The chef brings out the best in this produce, thanks to contemporary creativity and flawless technique, creating dishes with intense and perfectly balanced flavours. Pies with golden lids, fragrant sauces, nods to Sicily… each dish tells a delicious and unexpected story. A bright and authentic place at high altitude.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In the heart of a wooded estate, this venue sets the scene for a culinary experience that is both delicate and daring under the auspices of Pierre Frindel, formerly at Sources de Caudalie. The chef delicately crafts local and less local produce, deploying his consummate skill and subtle creativity. Each dish strikes an accomplished, harmonious balance between tradition and modernity, depicted by a breast of Bresse poultry, melt-in-the-mouth aubergine, smoked caviar and crunchy confit leg, underscored by a saffron jus, or by John Dory in nasturtium oil. Spot-on cooking, elegant plating and a dining room turned towards the countryside.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Set in deepest Provence, Mane is both picturesque and steeped in history, which is also true of the 17C Couvent des Minimes, whose admirable restoration has retained its period charm. This provençal Arcadia is home to a luxury hotel, with swimming pool, spa and a fine dining restaurant, named after Louis Feuillée, Louis XIV's botanist, who was born in the village. The kitchens are masterfully run by Louis Gachet, MOF 2023, who seamlessly navigates between his native Burgundy and Provence. Bold dishes and exquisite sauces exemplify the creative consummate culinary talent of this virtuoso chef.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The name of this country house is a nod to the nearby island of Gavrinis. The chef, who trained under Pierre Gagnaire, captures the spirit of Brittany as he showcases the produce of this plentiful, vibrant region, with dishes like a medley of locally grown mushrooms (pleurote, shiitake), served roasted, in ravioles and in consommé or red mullet paired with a chervil coulis and a dressing of bone marrow and andouille, or John Dory, artichokes, cured meat, shellfish and a white wine sauce. A genuine gourmet halt, further enhanced by a ‘sustainable’ interior décor, adorned in driftwood and a soft colour scheme of ecru, oatmeal and grey. The exquisite patio, flower-decked in summertime, adds the final flourish to this felicitous portrait.

1 Star • Italian. A magnificent Baccarat chandelier, immaculate white decor and delicate floral arrangements all contribute to the chic yet relaxed decor designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon… Guests are left in no doubt that this is part of the exclusive Four Seasons George V hotel! At Le George, Simone Zanoni has definitely made his culinary mark here with his Italian-inspired dishes. This light and airy cuisine is enchanting; Zanoni's dishes are served in small portions, with particular attention paid to the flavours and cooking methods of the Mediterranean. Enjoy your meal either indoors or in the high-ceilinged conservatory enabling guests to enjoy the courtyard setting whatever the weather.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Le Grand Monarque, which is home to Le Georges, has withstood the test of time – the hotel’s first mention in the Michelin Guide dates back to 1900! This elegantly appointed establishment is ideally located between Paris and the Loire at a crossroads between the regions of western France. Thomas Parnaud has steadfastly remained true to his mission of shining the spotlight on local producers who respect the environment as he deploys a top-to-tail ethos. Examples include Perche pike with Eure-et-Loir mushrooms and house-made fish garum, or Racan chicken, seasonal endive and kumquat. It would be a crime to miss his Grand Marnier soufflé, a consummately crafted masterpiece of pedigree French cuisine. The impeccably curated wine cellar boasts some 3,000 vintages with a spotlight on Val de Loire wines. Simpler, seasonal fare in the pleasant brasserie patio. The hotel’s charming guestrooms provide the icing on the cake!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In a small village overlooking the hillsides, the old village school has been transformed into a restaurant. Welcome to the Gindreau in Saint Médard. Chef Pascal Bardet, originally from Lot and who worked for Alain Ducasse for 18 years, particularly at the Louis XV, is flourishing in his own kitchen. “My cooking is entirely free of set rules,” confides this shy, but confident craftsman. His knack with regional produce, particularly truffles, is indeed second to none. Take a seat under the shade of the chestnut trees and watch the sun set in Quercy.

1 Star (Green Star) • Creative, Farm to table. Nadia Sammut is committed to "building a better-tasting world". Gluten, refined white sugar and milk have been banished from her kitchen, in favour of an impressive move towards different types of flour and fructose. Her vision is also reflected in the original and bold tasting menu, which has a particular focus on vegetables and draws on the history of the region and Nadia's family. Her partner Ernest, who is passionate about wine, selects and matures fish slaughtered according to the ikejime method. The vegetable garden also has its part to play in creating healthy and natural Southern French cuisine that looks to the future and the Grand Luberon for inspiration.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Erwan Houssin and his pastry chef wife, Pamela, decided to drop anchor here in Leucate, which is hardly a surprise when you see the view that embraces the Sète coastline as far as the Albères mountains. Born in Brittany, Erwan grew up in the Hérault mountains and is perfectly at home with meat and fish from Languedoc to Roussillon, even going as far as Galicia sometimes. He picks the wild fennel, thyme, rosemary and savory himself on the nearby cliffs, creating incredible herbal teas, jus and sauces. Some of his signature dishes include shellfish served with baby leeks from Elne and an acidic velvety green emulsion of plankton; Mediterranean greater amberjack lacquered in black olives, runner beans in confit garlic and Lagrasse vermouth-spiked sauce; Burlat cherries poached in sweet spices, Tahitian vanilla-laced rice pudding and yoghurt and basil sorbet. Pamela’s trolley of sweet titbits at the end of the meal is to die for!

1 Star • Classic Cuisine. At the foot of the Montagne de Reims and on the road to Épernay, this imposing inn unabashedly brandishes its opulent style. Come evening, the elegant dining space done out in pale wood takes on a romantic air – the perfect setting for fine classic French cuisine delivered by chefs Dominique Giraudeau (who shone for many years in the kitchens of Gérard Boyer at Les Crayères) and his associate, Pascal Champion. On the menu, top-notch produce, from John Dory to free-range milk-fed veal, as well as game, lobster and truffles.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The Brun family's hotel-restaurant set in the Gorges de l'Allier looks out over the bridge and the river. With a close connection to their terroir, Clément, the son, in charge in the kitchen; Camille, his partner, who takes care of desserts, and the parents, Philippe and Michelle, elevate this rugged landscape. Through their cuisine, they celebrate the many ingredients to be found in nature in these parts: mushrooms, Auvergne meats and cheeses, salmon from a fish farm in the area, as well as wild plants and flowers. Tuck into a delicious ceviche of trout with Espelette pepper, avocado and tarama condiment, bulgur and lamb sweetbreads with anchovy butter, or the original combination of raspberries and malted barley with a pure malt cream from a local distillery.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. You may well miss this former sheepfold tucked away in verdant greenery with its exposed timberwork on the beach road. It is however well worth keeping your eyes open! Chef Yannick Duc treats diners to spontaneous, vibrant recipes that are tailored to modern tastebuds, displaying a strong predilection for first-class seasonal produce, in particular the catch of the day. The chef also enjoys mixing seasonings, spices and peppers, jazzing up his carpaccio of Banka trout with horseradish and black lemon cream and wasabi ice cream or pairing ravioles of lobster with green curry, bisque of fish heads and coconut milk. Served alfresco on the patio in fine weather opposite the herb garden.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine. A vineyard (515ha, no less!), a five-star hotel and spa, a MICHELIN-starred restaurant and an organic vegetable garden. It's in this idyllic setting, where Provence meets Tuscany, that chef Louis Rameau and pastry chef Éric Raynal work in tandem. They celebrate the local produce of the Haut-Varois terroir with vegetables, herbs and flowers from the kitchen garden, as well as olive oil and wine from the estate. The cheeses and other ingredients, delicately and skilfully prepared, are also organic and sourced from the best producers in the region: heirloom tomato French toast, roasted tomato and thyme vinaigrette; smoked squid, sorrel cream and Provence chilli pepper; fruity green olive oil, honey and olive oil madeleine, olive oil cream, all presented and served by a cordial front-of-house team who excel in their craft. Open evenings only.

1 Star • Creative. A short walk from Claude Monet's house, this half-timbered Anglo-Norman residence dating back to 1912 extends an invitation to relax and enjoy the good things in life. Normandy-born chef David Gallienne, who earned his stripes at the Manoir du Lys, crafts precise, refined cuisine, with inventive and colourful dishes that feature unorthodox marriages of flavours and carefully crafted textures. He uses a network of local suppliers, but allows himself forays further afield, paying particular attention to the selection of ingredients, eg farmhouse butter and mussels from Mont-Saint-Michel. In addition, there is a pretty garden dotted with works of art and they also have charming guestrooms should you wish to stay longer.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This "secret garden" opposite the small train station is a secret worth sharing! In his intimate, contemporary restaurant, chef Gilles Leininger demonstrates great ambition, experience and expertise. He crafts delicate cuisine inspired by the market and his inspiration, always using top-quality ingredients, such as wild scallops, quail from the Vosges, game from Alsace, vegetables from a neighbouring farm. His squab and foie gras pie is one of his signature dishes. The other secret of this establishment is its leafy patio to the rear of the building.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This imposing stone edifice near France's borders with Germany and Luxembourg has retained its family atmosphere. At Le K, beneath heavy timber rafters and a Treviso crystal chandelier, chef Benoit Potdevin rolls out refined, delicate fare in tune with the zeitgeist. Crab's legs and claws in a refreshing Calamansi vinaigrette, served with caviar; roast scallops, Jerusalem artichoke and a jus of scallop skirt with Moselle whisky; gin-flavoured loin of venison, a medley of carrots and a gutsy juniper-flavoured gravy are just a few examples. There is also a “Market Garden” set menu, while the more informal Le Komptoir serves tapas and wood-fired cooking.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This seaside resort where Louis XIV married the Infanta of Spain, Maria-Thérèse of Austria, is home to what is said to be the oldest building in town (16C). Behind the high walls and mullioned windows, the elegant restaurant is headed up by Basque chef Nicolas Borombo (from Bayonne). This son and grandson of rugby players settled here after clocking up experience in kitchens in Paris, at the Hôtel de Crillon (working under with Dominique Bouchet and Jean-François Piège), and at the Four Seasons Hotel George V under Philippe Legendre. A champion of his terroir, he crafts original and refined cuisine that creatively showcases Basque products.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. (Temporarily closed) Julie and Sébastien Bonnet have settled in a pretty country village a few kilometres from Crest, their previous haunt. In an edifice dear to Sébastien’s heart (it was formerly the Demeure de Grane, a local institution where he carried out his apprenticeship), he enthusiastically demonstrates that both his talents and his seasonal fare, equally poised between surf and turf produce, are as enticing as ever. His spot-on, sophisticated, occasionally playful dishes are served in two cosily contemporary dining rooms. The splendid wine list, with Rhône wines in a prominent position, adds the final flourish to this gourmet masterpiece.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Set in the Vosges mountains, surrounded by pristine wilderness, this luxurious chalet hotel complete with a spa is conducive to truly unwinding and recharging. High up in these mountains, tranquillity, and an almost monastic atmosphere reigns – indeed the site was the Ermitage du Père Joseph prior to becoming a small ski resort. Fine dining has been brought to this unique setting by Benoit Potdevin (Le K at Domaine de la Klauss, MICHELIN-starred in Moselle), supported by a local chef. Inspired by regional terroir, their menus (one of which is vegetarian) are a feast of precision and refined flavours: gently cooked trout, chanterelles and a silky vin jaune sauce; Vosges pigeon served in two courses, turnips and cherry condiment. Beautiful dishes served by a congenial and efficient team.

1 Star (Green Star) • Modern Cuisine, Creative. On the outskirts of Nantes in a beautiful residence near the Erdre, a chic and trendy decor and a menu of culinary delights awaits in this enticing restaurant. Chef Mathieu Pérou, who has worked in many Michelin-starred properties, skilfully combines fresh and elegant flavours in his beautifully presented dishes which he prepares using the region’s best ingredients. Front of house, his sister Anne-Charlotte oversees the highly professional service.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. The huge forest of Andaine surrounding this restaurant, depicted by light wooden wainscoting and a leafy terrace, is undoubtedly its ‘raison d’être’. Poised between Maine, Normandy and Brittany, these green lungs nurture and nourish the forest-inspired cooking of chef Franck Quinton. His way with mushrooms is out of this world: roast cèpes in thyme and laurel, girolles sautéed in rosemary, apricots and hazelnuts, chanterelles in cream of foie gras and parmesan or horn of plenty with ham and ciboule onion… If you stay the night, you can even go picking with him! This wholehearted chef is also a champion of local produce and his pigeons, veg and meat all come from within a few dozen kilometres. Delicate, appetising food served in an elegant, peaceful interior: heaven!

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this restaurant near Aix-en-Provence, head chef Nicolas Bottero (previously in Grenoble) serves up exciting, flavoursome and fragrant cuisine. As a child, he used to spend time in the region visiting his grandmother, and has retained an affection for the colours of the South of France and an attachment to the land. You can tell as much from the green asparagus from Mallemort, sautéed à la minute, with creamy morels and a vin jaune emulsion, or the blood oranges on a baba au rhum infused with star anise and a refreshing sorbet. Local farmers are among his suppliers, and a small kitchen garden provides the aromatic herbs. The terrace to the rear of the building overlooks a small garden. Discreet, humble and enthusiastic, Nicolas Bottero gets our vote.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Very attached to his native Manche (the northern département with Cherbourg at its tip), the adventurous Philippe Hardy has worked in some prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants and in the kitchen of the French ambassador in Sofia. It was there that he met his wife, Nadia, a former principal dancer. Together they have transformed this former girls' boarding school into a chic and sweet little hotel-restaurant. All around, the garden and the vegetable garden thrive, providing vegetables and aromatic herbs grown from saved seeds. The other big thing at Le Mascaret is the sea: the chef never misses an opportunity to make a delicious dish with wild fish and shellfish, at a bargain price.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine, Creative. Just a stone’s throw from Place Royale and the cathedral, this local culinary landmark sports a stylish fashionable interior. It provides the perfect playground for chef Benjamin Andreux, who unveils his ambitious vision of fine dining in which seafood plays the leading role. The epitome of intelligent creativity, suavely crafted into original dishes and backed up by high-flying execution, all of which in line with the seasons.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. In this picturesque village where visitors can journey from prehistory to the Renaissance, this restaurant enjoys a truly stunning setting at the base of a cliff. This outbuilding of the Benedictine abbey of Brantôme also features a splendid terrace on the banks of the River Dronne, facing the town’s 16C angled bridge. Here, the chef’s fine, flavoursome cuisine is ably supported by a cast of superb ingredients, perfect cooking techniques and meticulous presentation. All in all, a venerable property with a contemporary and timeless charm.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. This charming hotel perched on a chalk cliff was originally commissioned in 1908 by King Leopold II of Belgium so that he could entertain his lover, Blanche de Vaughan, but it is now a magnet for foodies. Sourcing local produce is central to the estate’s outlook: scallops from the Bay of the Seine, farm-reared lamb from nearby breeders and fresh fruit and vegetables from local growers. The result is recipes oozing in fresh, crisp, wholesome flavours. When the weather is fine, alfresco dining on the terrace gazing down over the meanders of the Seine is heavenly. On the other side of the street, Le 20 du Domaine serves simpler fare, ideal for a gourmet snack.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Le Patio, managed by chef Thierry Renou, specialises in top-drawer produce from South-West France: organic asparagus from the Landes, Pauillac lamb, Cambes black pork, foie gras, Diva de Biganos caviar… Modern, well-balanced cuisine that is showcased by dramatic and inspired plating. The pollock is escorted by pig’s trotters and the foie gras rubs shoulders with crème brûlée. As for the eponymous patio, you are in for a treat: the glazed roof means you can enjoy alfresco luncheons and star-lit dinners…

1 Star • Creative. Le Pavillon of the Westminster, a 1930’s luxury hotel and a flagship of the Côte d’Opale, boasts a velvety cocooned vibe and a black and ochre colour scheme. The dining room, hung with huge animal-themed tapestries, provides the backdrop to William Elliott’s creative seafood-centric score. Virtuoso talent and delicacy depict the craftsmanship lavished on noble ingredients like caviar, lobster, langoustine… Examples include Audresselles lobster in cherries and almonds underscored by an aceita di terga vinegar dressing. The terrace commands a view of the iconic La Canche lighthouse. Simpler fare at La Table du West, the hotel’s other eatery.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. A landmark of Bordeaux’ culinary scene for several decades now, this stone town house is emblematic of 18C Bordeaux. At the helm, chef Thomas Morel, whose wife Célia supervises the front of house, gives free rein to his creativity. Underpinned by a solid classical background, the food is dotted with contemporary notes, such as immaculately cooked pollock flanked by an astounding horseradish-flavoured hollandaise sauce. The lunchtime menu is particularly attractive.

1 Star • Modern Cuisine. Born in South Africa and raised in New Zealand and Australia where he learnt the craft, Nick Honeyman fell in love with France and its produce following stints at Arpège and above all Astrance. In fact, it was thanks to Pascal Barbot that our globetrotter found his way to this bistro that he has gradually turned into a gourmet establishment. Exquisitely presented, his signature cuisine is a masterfully intelligent festival of emulsions and contrasting flavours. This seasonal restaurant (May-Sept) located in a picturesque village boasts a terrace overlooking the garden’s manicured lawn. In the dining room, Sina, Nick’s German wife and trained sommelière, suggests local wines, fine vintages and the occasional bottle of New Zealand wine.